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Draft Tube Filter


Richard Cope

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Have a 39 Plymouth with stock engine and recently purchased a Mopar draft tube filter.  The filter housing will go into the block and the draft tube clamps onto.  Has anyone had any experience using this type of filter?  I'm not ready to go the PVC route at this time, hoping this filter may help with the oil smell and after running the car for an extended period of time and pull it in the garage get a few drops of oil dripping from the draft pipe as it cools down.  Currently keep a drip pan on the garage floor.  Keeping this filter clean would be priority, for air to circulate in the crankcase.  Any thoughts on how often the filter requires cleaning / replacing?  Does anyone know of a filter that can be purchased as a replacement?  

 

Appreciate your input

Regards, Richard

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Well the filter was added to keep dust out of the engine not smells in as it breathes air out of crankcase with fumes as designed. It may slow drips for a short time after a cleaning.

The original filter material is a washable with kerosene type solvent, blown dry (oiled?) and reinstalled.

A replaceable paper type? Never heard of any but that does not make it so.

 

These motors breathe out fumes from the crankcase, always. More so when worn. Install a PCV valve is only way to eliminate this.

 

DJ

Edited by DJ194950
spx2
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My '49 had that filter on the draft tube, it still had most of the decal on it that instructed service by cleaning just like the crankcase inlet filter, same filter media for both...that flathead had almost as much fumes and drippings as my '48 that had the unfiltered draft tube, and both engines had been rebuilt.  So I went forward with a PCV installation and was pleasantly surprised at the near elimination of fumes...the engine ran just as smooth as it had before starting with the PCV install, and the cab didn't get stinky when sitting at stop lights.  Full plumbing of the PCV system from the crankcase inlet to the air filter should fully eliminate fumes.  As long as the crankcase is open to the environment, fumes will persist, even with filtering...if the fumes are consumed through combustion, then they cannot escape into the environment except out of the tailpipe, far away from the comfort of the driver's seat :cool:

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Mine disintegrated years ago, I just have a rolled up piece of wire mesh stuffed in more to keep the gritters out than stuff in.  Most of your fumes ar oke probably coming from the oil filler breather.  Unfortunately this symptom is caused by worn piston rings allowing cylinder compression and air fuel mix to pass into the crankcase, typically call blow by  PCV will help but your lack of prformance, high fuel comsumpton and oil use will still be issuses that'll need addressing.

 

How you use your car effects this condition also.  If all you are doing is hopping in it once a week to go to the local cruise in or ice cream shop that is adding to the condition.  You got to get it up to operation remp and sustain that for 45 minutes or more to get all the water vapor  from condensation out.

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I installed a PCV valve on my ‘53 suburban. Very easy to do. I removed much of the tube and fabricated a means to install the valve on that tube. Then reversed  it’s direction 180 degrees and ran a tube to the intake manifold. I haven’t driven it enough to give an opinion on the results.

 

i did not realize that air flowed through the block “chambers” from the oil filler tube cap and out the draft tube. What moves the air is the pull from the draft tube. So then when driving slow, there is no air movement and sludge is the result.
Correct me if I am wrong, but the intake manifold always has a great deal of air moment, so by routing the fumes to that manifold, two things happen, one is that the air is always flowing  inside the block which keeps it clean and two those fumes are burnable gases and will add somewhat to your gas mileage. Some say about 1.5 mpg. 
 

will do the same on my truck this spring when it gets a full tune up. 
 

 

Edited by pflaming
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3 hours ago, pflaming said:

I installed a PCV valve on my ‘53 suburban. Very easy to do. I removed much of the tube and fabricated a means to install the valve on that tube. Then reversed  it’s direction 180 degrees and ran a tube to the intake manifold. I haven’t driven it enough to give an opinion on the results.

 

Wouldn't introducing additional air into the intake manifold upset the fuel mixture, making the engine run leaner? The PCV systems I'm familiar with return crankcase flow to the air cleaner so the carb jetting won't be altered.

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Generally speaking if a PCV is being used then there in no filter on the oil input tube. The filter is replaced with a cap. Power Wagons are on example.

The air being draw out through the PCV is purely that has by-passed the rings, valve guides etc. 

It keeps the sump in a state of vacuum.

 

Tony 

  

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Not really, if you look at the factory installation instructions in the download section you will see where a fresh air tube is routed from the carb air filter housing to the oil fill tube.  So while the oil fill tube does have a cap there is also a fresh air supply to the crankcase.

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