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Removing Glove Box Emblem


1940DodgeGuy
Go to solution Solved by Dodgeb4ya,

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Does anyone have any ideas, tips, tricks, etc. for removing these emblems? I have included a photo.

This is from the glove box on my 1940 Dodge D17. I am restoring the front grain pattern and need to temporarily remove the emblem for restoration. 

 

Looks like a metal stud and not a rivet. Maybe pressed on??

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

Dean

214965552_PhotoJan2041521PM.jpg.a7911c27c9f90e9e138e1e76a98c2621.jpg

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I believe your nameplate has three 1/16" delicate diecast/potmetal studs that are pushed into those hollow looking rivets. 

I cannot remember what they are called but they stay in they permanently stay in the glove box door.

The nameplate studs are a slight friction fit into the three stud retainers.

Try tapping on each studs backside...just the nameplate stud in the center of the rivet looking retainer (barrel nuts) and see if the nameplate starts to more away from the face of the glove box.

Use a correct sized flat punch.

Be careful not to use too much force tapping evenly on all three studs...a little bit on each back and forth.

If the nameplate does not move away immediately stop!

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
spelling mistake
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I have removed many nameplates using tubular nuts from the mid 50's to early 60's Imperials and 300's.

If it was in my hands Gregg it would be done in 5 minutes.

To put the nameplate on....just push the pins and plate into the tubular nuts....vert fast and simple.

Removing an old nameplate requires care....maybe I could wardrobe some HF punches to do the next one I do.

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I too would be very interested in seeing how this works as whilst its a RHD car the glove box lid is identical for both Left & Right Hand Drive.........I cheated when I hot rodded the car in the early 70's.....I had the whole glove box rechromed with the badge still in place........see pic.............andyd  

P1000703 (800x600).jpg

P1000823 (800x600).jpg

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With no access to the backside of the studs a very thin putty knife /wedge can be used to carefully work the nameplate up...also use a thin penetrate on the nameplate studs.

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Whatever you do, do it carefully as Dodgeb4ya has suggested above . The nametag is pot metal and will break easily. I believe when I took mine off, I very carefully took a Dremel and ground a tiny bit of the studs at the back and then pried very carefully from the front close to the studs. Replacing it, I used a tiny bit of JB Weld on the back. No problems so far after 5 years and as Dodgeb4ya says the nameplate studs are almost a pressed fit. Good luck!

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Thanks to everyone for the help!! Everything worked perfectly! I took everyone's suggestions into account before starting. Started with a shot of PB blaster and let that sit for about 30 minutes. I used a 1/32 nail set which had a point that fit the holes in the center of the stud perfectly. I had supported the glove box door between 2 scrap 2x4's so that the emblem was not resting on the table. I "lightly" tapped the first stud and it popped through on the second tap. Same process for the rest with the same result. It seemed to take very little pressure. The whole thing was done in less than a minute with excellent results. 

 

I had assumed that the emblem studs had been pushed into some type of barrel fastener as others above have noted, and to me the barrel looked to be brass . However, after removal it seems to be all one piece, not sure maybe its really tight to the stud but I tried a pair of needle nose but the brass barrel(??) wouldn't budge. I decided not to press my luck.  After I restore the glove box door It looks like it will push back on.

 

Thanks again for the help, much appreciated.

Photo Jan 21, 2 18 49 PM.jpg

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Awesome..!

I have had a few of the barrels come out with the nameplates too.

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