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1953 Plymouth 218 Carb issue


Gear Grinder

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37 minutes ago, Gear Grinder said:

Hi Sniper.

Thanks so much. The main issue I have is that I dont have the right carb body to rebuild, but will use your link if i find one that I needs a rebuild. The carb manuals are super helpful! Thanks so much.

 

Doug

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The item in the DL section is the same as the one I linked too, so two sources which is good.  I didn't rebuild my carb this weekend, my son and I did other things and this is my weekend with him.  I try to save one/two day projects to do with him.  I just finished the rebuild and will try to write it up today.  Meanwhile I will attach the rebuild instructions from Walker, who made my kit.  Note the date it was written, 1967.  The float setting gauge it says to use wasn't in the sealed kit and that would have been real handy.  Other than that basic hand tools. 

Walker BB instructions.pdf

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Mind your balls.  The accelerator pump chamber has two check valves comprised of two captured balls which allow the pump to creat suction and pressrue.  They are held in place by little pressed metal slotted domes. When released the like to jump out, roll of the work table and take refuge in the deepest darkest corner of your shop.  If you have one of those magnetic parts trays they are of good use during a rebuild.also usually the balls are slightly different size so mark their location before freeing them.  Also the tiny little hair pin linkage retaining pins like to follow the same trail the check balls blaze.   Pretty simple carbs over all. Juts be carful with the small bits and pieces.

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In the picture that was posted you can see the difference in height between the earlier b1b and the bbs from the 54. Hood lines came down, manifolds carbs and air cleaners got shorter to accommodate lower hood lines.  Probably not an issue in this application but something to make note of.

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An update. 

1. Thanks to Ken, I have a Carter Ball and Ball on the way to replace the mysterious carb I have.

2. I was able to tweak the existing carb to run smooth at idle and went through the engine. Everything else looks good. Still have that missing issue and poor power at speed, but pretty sure this is the engine starving for fuel with the low fuel pressure I am setting for a smooth idle.  

3.  I have ordered stock parts for the ignition: Coil, wires, points, condenser, rotar and cap. When these come in (this week) I will do the tune up and timing check with the current carb to verify everything works. 

5. Then I will rebuild the Carter and put it on. Hopefully be good to go!

I can not thank you enough for helping out this Newbie and will post progress as I get along.

 

Thanks,

Doug

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Alrighty fellas,

An update: I managed to get the mystery carb apart and cleaned up to make things run a lot better so I can shake out my tune up before introducing a new carb. My first carb job and good training. 

I also started the rebuild of the Carter B&B DTE2 carb,  and have run across something I want to check on. In the Mikes Carbs rebuild video, it shows a long arm going from the choke mechanism to the fast idle cam. The carb I have has neither the long arm or the high-idle cam. I am chocking this up to being a slightly different carb. Does that make sense based on your experience?

 

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20200220_184137_compress12.jpg.74efe901be8824d27865a5cbda1a3b1d.jpg

8 hours ago, Gear Grinder said:

Alrighty fellas,

An update: I managed to get the mystery carb apart and cleaned up to make things run a lot better so I can shake out my tune up before introducing a new carb. My first carb job and good training. 

I also started the rebuild of the Carter B&B DTE2 carb,  and have run across something I want to check on. In the Mikes Carbs rebuild video, it shows a long arm going from the choke mechanism to the fast idle cam. The carb I have has neither the long arm or the high-idle cam. I am chocking this up to being a slightly different carb. Does that make sense based on your experience?

 

Truck carbs are different than your P25 1953 Plymouth.

The Carter Ball and Ball  DT series truck carbs use a manual choke and fast idle.

The truck carb you have could be converted to be like the stock D6H2 factory correct Carter carb for your car but would require the correct carb top, link and fast idle cam.

Also the jetting might be slightly different. 

 

20200220_184158_compress17.jpg

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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  • 2 weeks later...

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