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the gift that keeps on giving


Plymouthy Adams

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I think it has been one of the very best body tool investments I have ever made, the 10" shrinking disc.   I stripped a fender last night inside and out, discovered 3 areas with considerable damage but was too late to work further.  I was out there this morning and in no more than 20 minutes with the disc and a cold wet rag, the fender is again very nice.  The key to such quick success admittingly is the fact I have it on the work table and able to clamp it from moving and be able to work both sides of the panel alternately.   This is one tool that I highly recommend to anyone that is working dinged panels.  I did not have to bump any dings with hammer and dolly, these stretched areas were probably the result of hammer/dolly work from the earlier repair and resulted in a bit excess of body filler I removed when stripping.  

 

Objective today, the other front fender stripped to bare metal.  

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I saw a video years ago of a guy using a home brewed shrinking disk.  He just used a hardware store arbor for drill driven sanding disk attached to a stainless pan lid, probable 8" or so.  Seemed to work as well as the real thing.  I may need to try that on my rt fender when the time comes.

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4 hours ago, kencombs said:

I saw a video years ago of a guy using a home brewed shrinking disk.  He just used a hardware store arbor for drill driven sanding disk attached to a stainless pan lid, probable 8" or so.  Seemed to work as well as the real thing.  I may need to try that on my rt fender when the time comes.

 

I saw a video like that too, and picked up a stainless lid from a pot at a used goods store, but I would like to hear from someone who has used one, to explain how YOU did it.  Do you just spin it against the high spots, How long does it take (need to get pretty hot?), etc.

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16 hours ago, Eneto-55 said:

 

I saw a video like that too, and picked up a stainless lid from a pot at a used goods store, but I would like to hear from someone who has used one, to explain how YOU did it.  Do you just spin it against the high spots, How long does it take (need to get pretty hot?), etc.

 

Like any tool, the higher the quality in manufacture, the better the tool will work.  Any and all of these require proper backing to prevent distortion in use.  Proper set up is a must.  Strength of the material is extremely important, not saying a pan lid will not work, but, it was designed as a pan lid.  Well made disc is .060 thick stainless.  A heavier pan bottom of stainless would be more to my idea of a substitute and the centering of the mounting hole is of importance in mounting and use.  As with any tool there is a principal in application, there is experience gained by use...I would not expect an "excellence" right out of the box but you will see in first application how it works.  Access to both sides of the damage yield faster more excellent results.  Virtually eliminates bumping metal in many applications.  Technique in use is important and learning this take a bit of time.  I am not what I would call skilled, but it sure beats hammer/dolly and other shrinking methods hands down in my opinion.  And, it does not take much for the friction to generate heat, careful when wiping you do not expose bare skin to just prepped surface...definite ouch conditions exist...

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