Jump to content

Rope main seal


RJTX667

Recommended Posts

Finally getting ready to put my engine back together.

 

is there a better brand for the rope seal?

 

I got a fel pro kit from the machine shop, but have read that the best gaskets Seem to be better.

 

i dont care to put in the fel pro just to have to take it out because it leaks or whatever and replace it with the best gasket brand?

 

the other option I was not sure about, can you drill and tap the block/ main cap and convert to a rubber main gasket?

 

thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I doubt there is anything wrong with using the Felpro rope seal. Most of the issues I have heard about have been focused on Felpro Head gasket failures. This problem carries over to other engines as well. I have some buddies who are professional mechanics and they just won't put an engine of any sort together with Felpro head gaskets. Too many failures....

Hth, Jeff

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rope seals work well installed correctly.

If there is any wear or surface imperfections the rope seal is the way to go. Non rebuilt engines.

 

The rubber lip seal is excellent sealing on a perfect smooth crankshaft seal surface.

The rubber lip seal will not tolerate any pitting or wear on the crank seal surface.

I prefer the old original MoPar or NORS asbestos graphite type rope seals over the modern synthetic loose woven asbestos free rope seals.

Some more info....

Rear Main Seal Tips
* Make sure (rubber) seal lip facing is facing forward.
* Synthetic ropes (other than GraphTite) are very difficult to trim and can be butchered
* Synthetic rope seals (other than GraphTite) don’t seal as well as the original asbestos rope seals.
* In-car rope seal installation is a lost art and requires special tools. Best performed by an old guy with experience with in-car rope seal installation.
* Use a thin coat of sealant across all cap-to-block mating surfaces.
* Rubber seals don’t always fit right due to machining inconsistencies.
* GraphTite-do not soak in oil; use ATF or any startup oil on the rope surface.
* Offset the seal ends slightly (rubber rear main seals).
* Make sure the pan is straight, and do not over-tighten bolts.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The seal that came with the gasket set is not even long enough to do what appears to be a proper install. There is not enough to touch on each side much less extra to cut off.

 

i am just going to order a set of the graphTite rope.

 

my oil pan situation is sad. The one pan I have in “decent shape” is not that good, and is not square so would be why the PO used so much silicone trying to get it to stop leaking.

 

My other pan is an original 35, it is square to the block.... but lots of pin holes and some dents.

 

i have some time to try and either find another or fix this one. I would like to fix the 35 so that its an original part. Hard to find all these original parts but slowly making progress. 
 

found an original 35 distributor recently and looks like its going to work out real nice!!

 

thanks for the help

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oops,my wrong thread.

Edited by maok
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use