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bambamshere

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1 hour ago, bambamshere said:

 

Ok I am not sure how we got from me asking for some one to fabricate motor mounts to buying a turnkey vehicle. You can get motor mounts for just about anything but these trucks. Anyways I get for some this stuff is easy. Not everyone one has a million dollar garages you can work out of. This truck was given to me and has been in family since new. Anyways before I say something stupid again. 

 

it got there as you intend to build and it will not stop at engine mounts and while you said you could learn to weld, I merely suggested that your welder would be used more than just making mounts.....sorry if I was giving you some encouragement....guess that was a bit much...

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A welder is a really great investmest. You can get a fluxcore mig that runs off 110 power for a few hundred bucks. Some of the offshore stuff is getting pretty nice for real cheap. Look at everlast welders. For another hundred bux or so you can get a shielding gas setup and make nicer looking welds.

 

An old stick welder that plugs into your 220 dryer outlet can be had used for really cheap. Like super cheap. They are powerful and versatile but there is a steep learning curve. 

 

Anyway, a welder, 4” angle grinder, and an engine hoist (maybe a drill press) will get almost any job done you need. You should be able to get all three for under a grand if you wait for deals and look for used stuff. 

 

Plus you will be making and fixing stuff all the time it’s a lot of fun. 

 

I know the feeling about lusting after a million dollar garage though! I want a clean room for engine assembly, a metal lathe, a bridgeport mill, a downdraft paint booth, a sandblaster that isn’t trashpicked and works right, a two post lift, a winning powerball ticket...

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Yes, a small gasless mig is useful for small fabs.  You could make up a prototype by tack welding thin steel and take it to a engineering shop to make the end product.

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All I can say about the welder issue, I just don't think it would be possible for me to complete a project without one, or two, or three.  I've got a cheap MIG, AC/DC stick machine and an Oxy/Acetylene set.  One of those gets used every day I'm in the shop I think.  Nothing solves rusty, stuck bolt issues like the blue wrench!  And, since they were bought used and cheap I'm not into them much and I could resell them for full recovery price if, I say IF, I should ever to decide to quit using them.

Edited by kencombs
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Having the million dollar shop in other words is a lifetime accumulation of tools and equipment. Waiting for deals on new and used is key. 
hoist,sandblast cabinet, lathe 

multi process welder, plasma cutter all purchased when the price was right. Good cheap milling machine,been waiting years for one to come up. 
its fun, for me its my work that made these purchases necessary. 
 

op cant justify a welder,i get it. Not everybody’s cup of tea. Tools. My bad habit.

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Working on, restoring, modifying old cars and trucks....

You can never have too many tools!

The more the better....but ya gotta know how to use those tools too.

 

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Ok so get a welder. What type of welder would be good for learning. Something like a mig welder. I have a 220 in the garage. Don't want anything that will break the bank but will work for what i need. I thought about it. I'm sure something like a small mig would do wouldn't it. Some to practice with. I also thought that was smart to use some thin metal make a template and then take final product to fab shop for them to do the rest.  I heard that the Canadian Tire ones are really hard to get parts for if the screw up.

 

Or should I try to get one of those 3 in 1s

 

https://www.amazon.ca/HITBOX-Appearance-MIG200A-Functional-Self-Shielded/dp/B07R6QSDHN/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

 

What do you think and if not send link to something else

Edited by bambamshere
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IMO get a Mig machine with C25 gas bottle and regulator....this set up welds clean ...no messy slag to wire brush or grind off..you will have 100% easier time learning and getting nice porosity free.welds..no clean up after each bead run.

DIY'er low end $4-$500.00 dollar Harbor freight machines will kinda work but if they are non gas flux core wire set ups they can be difficult to run for a beginner.

There certainly is a learning curve to any  type of welding including "Monkey Gun" Mig welding.

Cheap low end machines will have little or no technical or parts service.

Your local  welding supply (LWS) can be a great place to see what's available to you as a newbie starting out. They can give you a lot of help and guide you.

This if you are serious about really wanting to do welding projects yourself and save $$ in the long run.

Lincoln,Hobart, Miller are good machines..been around forever..there are more too.

You probably should get a 110/220 volt..say 140 amp machine. That's a low end welder but would handle up to 1/4" like on heavier frame work and have good hot penetration plus nice thinner metal work.

You won't get any of this for less than 6-$800.00 though.

My Miller set up alone was close to 5 grand 20 years ago.?

All this JMO...Good luck!

 

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1 minute ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

IMO get a Mig machine with C25 gas bottle and regulator....this set up welds clean ...no messy slag to wire brush or grind off..you will have 100% easier time learning and getting nice porosity free.welds..no clean up after each bead run.

DIY'er low end $4-$500.00 dollar Harbor freight machines will kinda work but if they are non gas flux core wire set ups they can be difficult to run for a beginner.

There certainly is a learning curve to any  type of welding including "Monkey Gun" Mig welding.

Cheap low end machines will have little or no technical or parts service.

Your local  welding supply (LWS) can be a great place to see what's available to you as a newbie starting out. They can give you a lot of help and guide you.

This if you are serious about really wanting to do welding projects yourself and save $$ in the long run.

Lincoln,Hobart, Miller are good machines..been around forever..there are more too.

You probably should get a 110/220 volt..say 140 amp machine. That's a low end welder but would handle up to 1/4" like on heavier frame work and have good hot penetration plus nice thinner metal work.

You won't get any of this for less than 6-$800.00 though.

My Miller set up alone was close to 5 grand 20 years ago.?

All this JMO...Good luck!

 

 

So the one I left link for that did the 3 and gas is no good. Just looking for something cheap that I can practice with thats around the $500 mark

Edited by bambamshere
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2 hours ago, bambamshere said:

 

So the one I left link for that did the 3 and gas is no good. Just looking for something cheap that I can practice with thats around the $500 mark

 

If you decide to buy an off brand name welder and there are a few that do a very good job.  Such things as duty cycle in your first key concern followed by the fact that the cups/shields, tips and such consumables are INDUSTRY STANDARD for purpose of local purchase.   Most are, but do ensure and not assume.  30% at 200 max rating speaks pretty well, with lower amperage consumption the duty cycle will fair even better...this will determine how much weld you do verse how much cooling the machine needs after each pass.  

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2 hours ago, bambamshere said:

 

So the one I left link for that did the 3 and gas is no good. Just looking for something cheap that I can practice with thats around the $500 mark

Maybe it's good but add more$ for a decent hood , regulator and bottle of C25 gas if you will plus a decent 10/12 lb spool of .030 wire...if it will run the10"spool of wire. Get more info.

Here is a snip of a review..

Screenshot_20200102-004726_Chrome_compress74.jpg

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I know at one time everyone was knocking the lower cost weld helmets that are auto darkening but if they looked closer, all of them had the very same auto lens and helmet features of weight, design, ease of use due to head band etc was the difference and name added way more cost to the unit than features.   Store your helmet in a position it will face a light source so to stay charged to ready status...test auto-darkening with the torch striker for reaction prior to use.  DO ensure you set the shade for the job at hand....other than that, grab it and start playing...and yes the key word is playing, this stuff supposed to be fun!

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In the last couple of months I have started to revise what advice I give to others.

After a lot of years of collecting I have shed full of stuff. 4 welders (5 if you include oxy welding), 2 drill presses, lathe, draws full of hand tools etc etc........   And I would like to think a bit of knowledge has been gained along the way. 

To a large extent however I had forgotten where I started. My first vehicle resto was done with a small second hand stick welder, an oxy set and a small box of tools. I thought I was in heaven.

 

I suppose what I am trying to say is buy a cheap second hand stick welder (maybe even a small mig) take it home and with some scrap steel practice welding.

I know some people that have gone out spent good money on buying stuff and then decided they don`t like it. Sold it off cheap or it sits under the bench gathering dust.

 

From what I have read through this thread is you will only be making up mounts and brackets for the drive line in the near future. All this will only be tack welded or bolted together on a temporary basis until its all done, checked and done again to get it right.

Then armed with the knowledge you have gained go out and buy a good welder or give it to someone else to weld. 

 

Tony    

Edited by Tony WestOZ
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The above is good advice, attend a swap meet that has a highly attended venders display arena.  Many have demonstrations of their products with audience able to do a hands on with a bit instruction from the tech on hand.  You will gain some great insight.  Some welder suppliers are equipped in their facility to do this also.  Be realistic in you base needs, get enough power but don't break the bank for something you will not use either.  Another area of consideration is the local votech and check on an introductory course on welding.  Find your groove there.  You may find this to be a very sporting adventure and find a whole new hobby at the same time.  At least you will not be limiting yourself by not trying.

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Getting a multi-process welder as an entry level unit wouldnt be what i recommend. 
lincoln 140 or 180 mig. Can go with or without gas. 
lift arc tig is ok, but its a skill to be learned all on its own. 
kijiji is a good source for used equipment, but i would suggest you have someone with a little welder savvy with you to test it. 
 

there is little difference between a 200 dollar helmet vs a 49 dollar princess auto electronic helmet. 
my opinion. A high end welding helmet ($3-500) isnt necessary.

Welding 8 hours a day, then high quality is a must. 
 

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I also suggest picking up a MIG unit.  Pretty indispensable when it comes to playing old truck/car.  I bought a Miller 220V unit that can go "UP" to 5/16" material and works very well.  I think gas is a better weld and easier to deal with than flux core.   I firmly believe you get what you pay for in quality of product and what it produces.  Just my 2 cents.

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I understand getting a Miller or Lincoln welder. They are made in the US and yes everything US made must be better. 

 

AND NO I AM NOT BASHING UNITED STATES. Ok with that said I have had a lot of stuff that is made across the pond that is good stuff. I not saying that Miller or Lincoln is bad or anything like it. But it is past my price range and if I am going to buy something I may as well buy some that is versatile. Yes this thing I am thinking of buying may end up at my buddies place. At least it can do all and is not that bad of a price. 

 

I don't think I need stick welder

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1 minute ago, bambamshere said:

 

I don't think I need stick welder

 

 

BUT...it is included in your all in one package....and there are times that the stick is very applicable in a process.....my go to and depends on material is torch, arc, Tig and rarely ever Mig. especially for thin metals on these used car bodies we acquire to build.   Each style has its own applications and benefit of use when proper selection is made.  It is a process that each person defines for themselves.   Read the link posted by Dodgeb4ya....lots of little tips in there to help you along the way....plenty of white papers on the internet that will describe techniques and practices...reading is easy, practice and patience will pay off big time.

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9 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

 

 

BUT...it is included in your all in one package....and there are times that the stick is very applicable in a process.....my go to and depends on material is torch, arc, Tig and rarely ever Mig. especially for thin metals on these used car bodies we acquire to build.   Each style has its own applications and benefit of use when proper selection is made.  It is a process that each person defines for themselves.   Read the link posted by Dodgeb4ya....lots of little tips in there to help you along the way....plenty of white papers on the internet that will describe techniques and practices...reading is easy, practice and patience will pay off big time.

 

Oh I will read the that article. Just need some time. I was going to print it out when I get home 

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OK, so you need mounts and don't want to learn a new skill. That is actually ok with me...no need to have even more questionable vehicles on the road coming my way at 70mph...

As for stick vs wire, stick is a bit harder to master but a gas rig will not like to have the wind blowing if you work outside. Is the learning curve worth the effort? Since I've been running stick since 1965 I am a bit biased in any answer I offer.  I have several of each in my shop as they all have different advantages.

If you are buying a welder then look at the want ads, even place a want-to-buy ad, and no doubt an older stick machine will show up....there are millions of them and they rarely die unlike new machines with wimpy windings and/or electronics of any kind. 

If you choose not to buy and learn then soldier on.

Once you have the new engine mocked up, sitting in and on the frame you can get some thin alum stock and cut out/fold up what ever shape you need for the pieces you lack. Then just hand it off to someone who does fab work and write them a check. And as been said, I will echo using stock brackets on the engine; it saves a ton of work... I also suggest reading up on the Dan Babb build of years ago.....your truck your money.

Edited by wayfarer
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