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318 Maybe


bambamshere

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4 minutes ago, Radarsonwheels said:

 

Ideally you want it as low and far back as practically possible.

 

In reality you will have to deal with clearance issues on all sides. Is your steering still stock? Front suspension? You need the oil pan to clear these things and allow suspension travel and not hit the steering link. You can change the shape of the pan and pickup by welding in whatever sump you want but that’s normal for a race shop not a backyard swap. More likely is swapping in a rear sump or whatever is necessary if it has a car sump currently.

 

The exhaust outlets need to be at least aimed at an area open enough to make a free flowing curve in the downpipe- the more open the better. If the manifold aims at the edge of the frame you can notch and reinforce it but again not a novice job. 

 

Also you want enough room to put a stock fan on the water pump pulley that sits 1/2 deep into the radiator shroud. You might have to move the rad closer to the grille or use an electric fan. I used a replacement HHR fan for a chevy- those trucks had a small grille opening and needed a powerful fan. They are way less than $100 on rockauto and come with a shroud that’s easy to adapt.

 

Make sure the motor has room to vibrate and move around a little and won’t be buzzing up against stuff.

 

It’s tight front to back and possibly between the frame steering and exhaust too. It’s not as tight up toward the top of the hood which is a generous bubble. Also think about sparkplug exhaust and bellhousing tool access, and don’t forget that the distributor is in the back by the firewall.

 

good lick!

 

Thank You I think lol

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Ken and my posts seem to have crossed in space from the satellite but we are mostly in agreement. When I was planning my engine setback I did a lot of research on it and found a few things.

 

In a lot of racing classes they limit setback to the first sparkplug even with the steering knuckle so there is definitely a handling advantage but it is not as drastic as you might think. You have to really get radical to start seeing a big change in front to back weight ratio. I combined a 10” setback with a 10” altered wheelbase and a very heavy bed floor to get 51% nose weight, and that’s with an aluminum top end and headers that make my big block close to stock small block weight. 

 

Practically going a little high with the driveline will cost you more in trans & driveshaft tunnel fabrication time and effort than in handling. It is a noticable change in handling but in a bouncy truck with a bench seat I don’t know that you’d really be able to drive a whole lot more aggressively- it’s not like you’re going up on two tires.

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Just now, Radarsonwheels said:

Haha just saw you managed to quote me before I fixed the typo from lick to luck haha

?

 

I was looking at that and now am thinking whats going to cost less. Rebuilding my 354 Hemi and sliding it in there or putting the 318 and automatic or leaving it manual in to the truck. 318 runs came out of 1970 Plymouth Cuda

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To the OP there are a few of these LA swaps into these trucks on the HAMB.

Even 1 with a 225 Slant and A904 which fit in great

Just an FYI as there will be advisers who may or may not have been down this road on this...

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2 hours ago, 55 Fargo said:

Classiccarjack swapped in a wicked 360 into a 57.

He might be able to give you some info.

He has told me many times that built 360 was way too much engine for the stock frame and overall light weight...

 

Thank You

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Well I have a built 512 and if I could afford an 8-71 roots blower to stick on top I’d do it. My 3200 lb dodge A-body was very tame and drivable with a built 408 LA stroker. 

 

My 318 with a cam 4 barrel and headers in a ramcharger (heavier truck) is still not at all fast- part of that is the 31” tires but all my 318s are just rumbly cruisers none of them can scare you at WOT. 

 

I’m guessing the gen 1 hemi will be similar power but a lot more money and a lot more class & underhood bling

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My 80 power wagon on 35’s is a real dog on the highway,i used it for years to plow snow,in low range. 
if truck is retaining original gearing,it should pull pretty good. 
 

A donor k frame or truck chassis that carried a small block would aid in the swap. 
 

things like cooling are easily dealt with. Cable shifter is easy. 

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1 hour ago, 59bisquik said:

Having gone the hemi route and how well it fits... you know my vote.

 

Problem with my Hemi at least is before I can do anything with it I have to install sleeves. I bought so I could install it in truck. but sleeves at least where I am from sleeves would cost me 2000 to 2500. Then I could start but if I am going to do sleeves may as well do pistons and that apparently is another 200 2500 before taxes  

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Hemi's are not cheap to build...never were.

Sleeving...I'd start with another block or engine.

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Well if I'm starting fresh and throwing 1300 down the toilet. The truck will probably stay the way it is. But I am never one to stop. So I will most likely put new cam, intake manifold 4bbl carb and maybe timing chain, lifters and springs on 318 and put it in the truck. Oh ya may be put electric ignition in to it also.

 

Sure I don't have a clue how to weld or how to put engine in to truck. But at 50 years old I am still willing to learn. The mechanical part of putting engine together won't be hard. I have done that lots before. Just keep reading and asking questions.

 

Not sure if that manual transmission is the way to go or the 904 or throw that away and get 727. I am sure that I will have to figure out if there is a adapter for acme T98 to a 318 LA. Sure there must be something out there. 

 

Well things to think about 

 

 

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6 minutes ago, Tooljunkie said:

I think the 904 is quite stout even for a truck, and you will have less modification if any to the firewall. 
 

im putting a 904 in my 65 Barracuda as putting in 727 requires floor modification due to its larger size. 
 

 

I think I will have to do floor mods anyways. With 904 or 727

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Keep the A904 2 reasons, its lighter and less parasitic HP loss. Its plenty tough.

You will not find an adapter for the T98 to LA engine trust me.

For simplicity and tge fact its your first swap stay 904.

Get shifter and kick down cable and all good.

Get help from someone who has done swaps to help or guide you.

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So I will be some parts for engine soon. I have to buy a alternator. Would you go one wire? I know you can get Chrysler 1 wire more expensive or would you get normal Chrysler alternator and buy voltage regulator from somewhere like rock auto?  I can install either or

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Okay heres a 55 or 56 with LA318 and A904.

And heres the B series 51 with 318, note engine offset to right of centre.

This aint rocket science.

You don't need to clip it or frame swap.

A mild 318 would be perfect for this build.

Rebuild your stock front end, add disc brakes if need be and power steering can be had.

Plenty of guys in the Winnipeg area who could do this or help you with this swap.

Get a Mopar 8 1/4 diff with 3.23 or numerically lower gears and good to go and with ebrakes.

20438644064_a61c32ffad_k.jpg

CAM00056.jpg

Edited by 55 Fargo
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1 minute ago, 55 Fargo said:

Okay heres a 55 or 56 with LA318 and A904.

And heres the B series 51 with 318, note engine offset to right of centre.

This aint rocket science.

You don't need to clip it or frame swap.

A mild 318 would be perfect for this build.

Rebuild your stock front end, add disc brakes if need be and power steering can be had.

Plenty of guys in the Winnipeg area who could do this or help you with this swap.

Get a Mopar 8 1/4 diff with 3.23 or numerically lower gears and good to go and with ebrakes.

20438644064_a61c32ffad_k.jpg

CAM00056.jpg

 

I'm guessing you made those motor mounts. I was on another site couple days back. Some guy was wondering why they don't or where to buy motor mounts to install the small block LA or big blocks in to these trucks. There is enough guys out there that are doing this still.

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9 minutes ago, bambamshere said:

 

I'm guessing you made those motor mounts. I was on another site couple days back. Some guy was wondering why they don't or where to buy motor mounts to install the small block LA or big blocks in to these trucks. There is enough guys out there that are doing this still.

These are not my trucks.

Get a decent set of 318 mounts and weld and fab receiver to your frame.

You will need to fab cross member for trans too.

Do you have the mounts for the 318?

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Just now, 55 Fargo said:

These are not my trucks.

Get a decent set of 318 mounts and weld and fab receiver to your frame.

You will need to fab cross member for trans too.

Do you have the mounts for the 318?

 

No no mounts for trans but I can either go to wrecker or find some. When I bought engine Alternator, Starter and transmission mount somehow fell off of the engine lol

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