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Noisy Cut Out Relay


minicooper

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I started my B3C this evening to move it to the barn (windshield leaks, need to keep out the rain).

 

I heard a pretty loud buzzing that was enough to vibrate the dashboard. I opened the cover of the voltage regulator, started the engine and could see that the cutout relay points were arcing and buzzing loudly -- when the engine is idling, shouldn't the contacts be completely closed? Was wondering if the armature or contact points are replaceable or adjustable (it doesn't look as though they are)?

 

Is there a fire risk since this is the cut out relay -- I disconnected the battery, in case?

 

Roland

Chatt Hills, GA

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I forgot to mention the trick to filing contact points is to clamp both contacts onto the the filing tool at the same time so that the edges are worked parallel...then clean the contacts with rubbing alcolhol on a cotton swab or the like...

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1 hour ago, JBNeal said:

I forgot to mention the trick to filing contact points is to clamp both contacts onto the the filing tool at the same time so that the edges are worked parallel...then clean the contacts with rubbing alcolhol on a cotton swab or the like...

 

I use to have to dress the points on the voltage reg every 18 months or so. The points did not seem to like the high current draw from the extras I had connected to the battery.

I would use the points file first then some fine (about 600) emery folded in half to do both sides at the same time.

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Honeywell, Flame Safeguard Relay file works well - just don't file off the silver plating on the points - it's thin. Charlie Stephenson

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16 hours ago, minicooper said:

......

Was wondering if the armature or contact points are replaceable or adjustable (it doesn't look as though they are)?

....

 

Roland

Chatt Hills, GA

 

Yes and Yes.

> replaceable -> see here in a former post, when I had to replace them: https://p15-d24.com/topic/48964-worn-breaker-points-replacement-source/ (only correction is that I had to solder them in place instead of punching)

> adjustable -> see pics

reg_p139.jpg.971667e55ab624558fc039de3b43a7d7.jpgreg_p140.jpg.b03d9c29d0bb687a166300e310df47a3.jpg

reg_p141.jpg.98eccaa4d748062735c1f17758f3689b.jpgreg_p142.jpg.45c2f8607c8e02e84f9261549633e98f.jpg

 

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I read your suggestion for replacement contact points in your previous post. I did a search on the web for similar (pinball machine parts, etc) parts, but couldn’t come up with anything, only contact points in bulk for manufacturing from Chinese and Indian companies, you didn’t mention the supplier name in the post. Do you suppose ignition points contacts could be used instead?

 

I did find a $4.00 tungsten points file, https://www.pemro.com/product/nicholson/02375n/NIC-1057/

 

-roland

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4 hours ago, minicooper said:

I read your suggestion for replacement contact points in your previous post. I did a search on the web for similar (pinball machine parts, etc) parts, but couldn’t come up with anything, only contact points in bulk for manufacturing from Chinese and Indian companies, you didn’t mention the supplier name in the post. Do you suppose ignition points contacts could be used instead?

 

I did find a $4.00 tungsten points file, https://www.pemro.com/product/nicholson/02375n/NIC-1057/

 

-roland

 

Here you are Roland -> https://www.flipperteile.com/de/Schalter---Kontakte/Kontakt-Einzelteile/Kontaktniete--Wolfram-D-4-5mm.html

I didn`t post it, because it is a German source and so maybe not so interesting for most of folks here. My search key words were "Ersatzteile flipper"

 

Yes, I think you alternatively could use ignition points instead. But most of them are also no longer of good quality ...

 

Good luck ! Jan

 

Ah, and: I am very satisfied with the quality of the flipper machine contacts. After one year of regularly use they still look like new.

Edited by PT81Jan
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