Replacement steering parts DRAG LINK

[CaptChris]

Hey folks,

 

I am shopping for a new drag link for my '50 Windsor and was curious to see if y'all knew where to find a good deal. Best I have found is $300 for a new drag link from Rare Parts (27787), 

which is a bit ridiculous.

 

Haven't been on forum in a while, so if this should be in classifieds section, apologies.

 

 

 

 

[YukonJack]

Try RockAuto.com

Edited December 4, 2019 by YukonJack

[desoto1939]

Chris:  Are you sure you need a draglink.  These cars would use tierod ends and the pitman arms for the sterring.  Draglinks were used on the early 30's cars and then on the trucks.

 

So not sure what you are looking for or maybe I am not sure either.

 

Rich HArtung

[kencombs]

Judging from the price you must be looking for a 'Center Link', not drag link.  Looked it up and boy they are expensive.  Auto Zone seems to sell the Rare Parts brand, but what is interesting is they have a 100buck core charge. That indicates to me that someone, somewhere is replacing the wear parts and selling rebuilts.  Maybe one could do the same with some ingenuity.

 

If it is the part I think it is it's a long bar that has tie rod ends formed, not screwed, both ends, one for the pitman arm the other for the idler arm.  the tie rods attach to tapered holes near the ends. 

[James_Douglas]

1949 and 1950 Desoto did in fact use drag links. I have on one my 1949 Desoto CV.

 

As far as I could find, Rare Parts is the only game in town. 

 

FYI. In my case, I set the two tie rods to the length specified in the service manual. I then centered the steering box. Guess what? the Drag Link is not the correct length! Nothing is bent.

 

I also found specifications from MOPAR sources that contradict themselves as to the length!

 

I am going to, in March when I am cleared to do work, pop off the link and see exactly how much it is off then drive up to Rare Parts (Stockton, CA) and see what they have.  They told me they have a wall lined with all the drag links.  It sucks that the ends are not replaceable.

 

I did find an off road outfit that manufactures and sells drag links with spherical ends that can be adjusted. I was giving some thought to machining some tapered pins that would be tapered on the one side and have a shaft with threads on the other. Then using this companies drag link. The only thing to deal with then is the slight bed in the drag link.

 

James

 

 

[allbizz49]

There are a lot of aftermarket universal drag links available. If you're not worried about keeping your car stock, some are as cheap as 60 bucks. Moog sells a lot of different length links. 300 bucks for a single suspension part is pretty steep. 

[CaptChris]

3 hours ago, desoto1939 said:

Chris:  Are you sure you need a draglink.  These cars would use tierod ends and the pitman arms for the sterring.  Draglinks were used on the early 30's cars and then on the trucks.

 

So not sure what you are looking for or maybe I am not sure either.

 

Rich HArtung

 

I hear ya, but in fact from what I have seen this past week, they are called a Drag Link. It goes from steering box forward to a kind of pivot arm. It has tie rod type ends on it that are not adjustable. Also, the ends are 90 degrees away from each other and the steering box end is bent just slightly out.  If you scroll down here, you can see it. These places are calling it a drag link, maybe proper terminology is center link.

https://shop.rareparts.com/search?year=1950&make=CHRYSLER&model=WINDSOR

 

So to reply to the others, all I have found is Rare Parts that is a direct match. I have been trying to cross reference the drag link to something that is cheaper, hopefully a Moog part. Even it it needed a little tweak to make it work, but I haven't had luck yet. My drag is 26.25 center to center and about 27.5 overall. I also, don't really want to futs around with this part, just want the steering tighter, so I might just bite the bullet and spend the 300. It's also the only area I see the play at.

 

Another thought is to make one that has adjustable ends like a tie rod. Unless adjustable ends are that much more bulky and fitting them in is an issue. 

[Andydodge]

From what I've seen on here and in various books the 49/50 Chrysler and DeSoto use a bellcrank mounted on the front crossmember with a drag link from the steering box.....similar to what Studebaker and Packard used plus many others........but happy to be shown I'm wrong......andyd  

[desoto1939]

Ok I have read your comments I just looked in my Tri-State all mopar catalog that covers mopars from 1937-52 and under the suspension there is nothing mentioned about drag links.  I see info and part numbers for tierod service packages and tierod bars.

 

refer to the attached document that I copied from the catalog.I might beable to provide the Moog ort Thompson ot Toleado Steel  Tie rod ends numbers

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com                                                Tie rods on Chryler windsor.docx

[CaptChris]

2 hours ago, allbizz49 said:

There are a lot of aftermarket universal drag links available. If you're not worried about keeping your car stock, some are as cheap as 60 bucks. Moog sells a lot of different length links. 300 bucks for a single suspension part is pretty steep. 

 

Not worried about stock, whatever works!

 

[Loren]

Years ago when I used to pre-run the SCORE off road race courses with a 1980 Scout, I as expected bent the one piece Drag Link.

I had been told it was a weak link in the steering so I knew it was coming.

The fix was to get an old Scout Tie Rod from a wrecking yard then cut off the threaded ends.

To get the adjustment for toe, IHC used tie rod ends with course and fine threads, both right handed. When you twisted the Tie Rod it screwed on one end faster than it came off the other so there was an adjustment available.

Then you'd get a tube that fit over the threaded stubs and welded it together. Now you had replaceable ends, a stronger Drag Link that didn't bend and adjustability to center the steering wheel after an alignment or taller springs. The stock Tie Rod Ends were plenty strong and rarely wear out. My guess is the repair cost about $20.

And do not worry about tapers.

There is an automotive standard for tapers. The only difference is the diameter used. That's why I put IHC tie rod ends in my drag link. If for some reason you can't get matching tapers you can get an automotive tapered reamer and and ream the hole out.

This is the charm of owning collector cars.

[Sniper]

One of these drag link sleeves and a pair of tie rod ends on it will fix your issues.

[James_Douglas]

There is NOTHING adjustable on the drag link on a 1949 and 1950 Desoto or Chrysler.

 

The tie rod joints are furnace forged onto the rod. The rod is not straight and has a bend and it is has a definite front and rear.

 

The only three choices are, buy one from Rare Parts, find an NOS one, or build one. The problem with building one is that at the steering box end the parts are VERY tight to the frame. They had to cut into the frame and make a big "dimple" area and even they they used a special thin nut to hold the rear tie rod join down. Getting that cotter pin is a PITA.

 

In my case I think I will make one that is adjustable. I will probably use these folks products.
http://www.bulletproofsteering.com/main.html

 

What I will not so is drill out my arms to use their bolt and nut. I will have my machinist make a set of tapered pins that will bolt in and then have a shaft with a threaded end for the spheical bearing and a nut to hole it in. This way, I can duplicate the tight fit side of the original. I will also take the finished parts to a hardening house in Oakland California that has the ovens to harden any part.

 

James.

[CaptChris]

On 12/4/2019 at 9:31 PM, Sniper said:

One of these drag link sleeves and a pair of tie rod ends on it will fix your issues.

 

This is where I am currently, picked up an 11/16 drag link from Speedway. The ford type rod ends came with it for about $60. I would have used the 5/8 bar from Speedway but the 11/16 rod ends had the closest dimensions, in terms of shank size (small end & large end), to the stock part I am replacing. 

 

[CaptChris]

   Also, I ordered a fixed length that they sell and not the custom length, saves ya like $50. I used a lathe to nip down each end about 3/4”. 

916-32504 part number from Speedway.

 

I’ll post a pic when she is mounted and working.

[Sniper]

Excellent. make sure you check the entire range of motion for any interference, lock to lock and tire at full jounce, and full rebound. 

[CaptChris]

Drag link in. $70 and some time to get it right. My setup needed a slight bend to clear the starter mount. Only thing I will change in the future is to find a tie rod end that has side grease fittings instead of on top. 

Photo of before bend,

[CaptChris]

After bending, it’s still close but isn’t touching anywhere, yes even with engine running. 

 

[Sniper]

Awesome work.  Saved another one for the road.  I wonder if a heim joint on that end would have netted enough clearance without the bend?

Edited December 24, 2019 by Sniper

[CaptChris]

On 12/24/2019 at 10:02 AM, Sniper said:

Awesome work.  Saved another one for the road.  I wonder if a heim joint on that end would have netted enough clearance without the bend?

 

Yes I considered that, but wanted to keep the car original. 

 

Haha just kidding. 

 

I would have needed an adapter piece for a Heim and at first look it appeared it also would take up some decent real estate, but definitely another way to go.

 

 

[Sniper]

Looked around some for a tie rods with a stud that didn't let it stick out as far, not sure I found anything useful there.  But I did see a couple with bent arms that might have done what you needed.  I suppose you could have reamed the steering arm to let the current tie rod sit deeper into it and away from any interference.  hard to say without being there.  But good job getting her on the road, or closer to being on the road.

 

[jorg]

Hi can you confirm that when I order this one it will fit a 1950 chrysler windsor newport coupe?

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Plain-Tie-Rod-Drag-Link-Kit-with-11-16-Tie-Rod-Ends,3306.html

 

thanks Jorden

[Sniper]

the thread pretty much answered the question.  It's a universal type part that may or may not need some work to make it fit.  Only way to say for sure is to mock it up and see.

 

The OP had to cut 3/4" off each end and bent one end to clear.  Odds are you will have to do something similar.

[jorg]

On 6/2/2021 at 5:18 PM, jorg said:

Hi can you confirm that when I order this one it will fit a 1950 chrysler windsor newport coupe?

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Plain-Tie-Rod-Drag-Link-Kit-with-11-16-Tie-Rod-Ends,3306.html

 

thanks Jorden

I can confirm that the 28 inch will fit, cutting 1 inch off will give you the correct size and some play to adjust.

In my case I didn't have to bend it. it is a perfect and easy fit.

 

Jorden