JSabah Posted October 30, 2019 Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 I bought some tie rod end boots from AB but I find see how they go on. They are very thick and I don’t think they will stretch that Mitch even with some heat. Am I missing something? How are they installed? Did I get the correct parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 30, 2019 Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 those look to be generic boots found also on the help isle at most all big box parts store.....these are available in two sizes...other suppliers have different replacement boots also.....it is hard to get a generic to LOCK onto most tie rod ends....these are designed to be held in place by the very problem you talk about...squish to fit...it is this squish that seals out dirt and moisture note that on over lube, excess grease will come from under the apron of the seal...just wipe this excess off....many folks like to see this excess when lubing for a FLUSHING action each lube job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSabah Posted October 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 (edited) What is throwing me off is the metal disc on the smaller end that looks like the rubber is supposed to go over .... and then get pinched in the lower portion. Are these original type? Never seen ones like this, but that’s not sayin’ much. Edited October 30, 2019 by JSabah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 30, 2019 Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 many tie rods ends do not have the metal washer...many foreign cars have these and basically they are a slip disc/bearing surface if you will to prevent drag and tear on the upper portion of the rubber cup.....the thin metal that is this washer is not going to compress the rubber but a couple thou over the normal fit of the tie rod...so yes....use them if you wish with no worry.....in my opinion they do promote longer life....again as long as the apron of the cup will seal out the dirt and moisture...frequent grease to flush...you should not have to worry about premature wear and or the fact it is not a locking skirt to the tie rod... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted October 30, 2019 Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 JS.....are you trying to use the new boots OVER the old ones?..........my understanding is that they are completely different to each other and to use the new type you have to remove the old boot completely although as Plymouthy says you can use a metal washer on top of the new boot.......but as far as I know the new boot doesn't go over the old one............andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSabah Posted October 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 Was not going over the old boot. Just took the picture in advance of trying. In this picture you can see where the lower portion of the old boot was pressed in to make a seal. I understand that the new will just fit over the bottom of the swivel housing. I just don’t see how the upper cone of the new boot will fit over the approx 1.5” dia disc with its 5/8 hole .... seems like a stretch (pun intended ?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted October 30, 2019 Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 (edited) 47 minutes ago, JSabah said: Was not going over the old boot. Just took the picture in advance of trying. In this picture you can see where the lower portion of the old boot was pressed in to make a seal. I understand that the new will just fit over the bottom of the swivel housing. I just don’t see how the upper cone of the new boot will fit over the approx 1.5” dia disc with its 5/8 hole .... seems like a stretch (pun intended ?) I don't think it is intended to to inside the boot, it goes between the rubber and steering arm as a sort of bearing surface to keep the rubber from twisting as the joint moves.. Edited October 30, 2019 by kencombs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSabah Posted October 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2019 sorry for my denseness, but Im just not understanding.....does the threaded portion come off? if so how? If not, how are you supposed to get the narrow end of the boot over the discs? If the discs are supposed to be inside the boot, then the boot isn't long enough . Thanks you your patience and help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted October 31, 2019 Report Share Posted October 31, 2019 Doesn't that metal disk come off? If so, boot first, disk on top of boot. If not, I don't know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 31, 2019 Report Share Posted October 31, 2019 (edited) that metal washer disc plate or whatever you wish to call will come off...most all do get a slight interference fit when nutted down the first time around.....once removed you will see the rest is easier than slicing pie....as an aside, I just processed a set of tie rod ends with the metal washers less than two weeks ago...I also am using generic boots exactly like you posted that I was fortunate enough to find NIB at a swap meet for 1.00 the washers will as you can see stop at the correct depth when tightened in the taper.... Edited October 31, 2019 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSabah Posted October 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2019 Well that makes sense now. This discs will come off one way or another tomorrow. I had tried gently to pry it off with a flathead screwdriver but it started to bend so I stopped to ask/post. I’ll use a pickling fork and a bit of force tomorrow... or a grinder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James_Douglas Posted October 31, 2019 Report Share Posted October 31, 2019 Be careful with the replacement boots. Some are WAY to thick and when you put them on they cause binding on the steering. I found out the hard way on my 1949. When they are tightened down the material is too thick and it binds so the ball stud is not free to pivot. Doorman makes some boots that are a thinner material as opposed to some of those hanging on the auto parts or hot rod shops walls. I found some that work...but the part numbers are up at the house and I will not be there for a few weeks. James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSabah Posted October 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2019 Thanks for the heads up. I was surprised as to how thick and stiff the ones I got are. I’ll watch for any issues. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 31, 2019 Report Share Posted October 31, 2019 I have seen them split apart and fall off too. Poor quality rubber. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSabah Posted October 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2019 1 hour ago, Dodgeb4ya said: I have seen them split apart and fall off too. Poor quality rubber. Which ones? the thick ones, AB's or chain store ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted October 31, 2019 Report Share Posted October 31, 2019 in time they all go south....on rubber parts...time is a value that often will work against you in the field of NOS ….I have two styles here and the ones you pictured are in my opinion just bought and resold by some retailers that cater to a specific model... Of the style you see, go to a big box store....I think you will find these on the Self Help aisle....they are two sizes and you buy according to the size of your tie rod. These should serve you well. I have used them over the years on many projects. I do not like the real heavy aftermarket boots that are RIBBED..they are quite stiff and the bottom is not tapered off and thus the sealing lip conforms less in operation......Less talk and more work...get out there and install these pups and let the beast roll down the road.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSabah Posted November 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 Thanks for the heads up. I was surprised as to how thick and stiff the ones I got are. I’ll watch for any issues. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSabah Posted November 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 FYI, those discs came off. Right front brake, suspension and tie rod all cleaned, painted and put back together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_shel_ny Posted November 1, 2019 Report Share Posted November 1, 2019 8 hours ago, JSabah said: Which ones? the thick ones, AB's or chain store ones? You would likely find that the ones you purchased are the same ones as the "chain store ones" with a middleman (to remove the packaging before shipping) in the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSabah Posted November 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2019 Knowing that those disks had to come off made all the difference.... afterwards it was easy peezy. Boot done, now shocks installed, suspension painted, all greased up, new bearings and dust seals, shoes adjusted, and all nuts torqued to correct values. Only things left to do on this side are make sure the axle nut is tightened correctly, install cotter pins, get a copper washer for brake hose and install/connect to hard line..... then do the other side of the car 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James_Douglas Posted November 2, 2019 Report Share Posted November 2, 2019 I took the '49 up to the house and put it on the rack for the winter. While there, still on the bench from summer, was the Dorman kit with the two boots in it. One boot is way too big, the other worked just fine on the '49. The part number is 13567. Just toss the big one in the odd parts bin and use the small one. Each part number gets you a SINGLE boot. I do not use any washers, steel plates, or anything else. Clean it all out of the way and just use the boot. James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted November 3, 2019 Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 2 hours ago, James_Douglas said: I took the '49 up to the house and put it on the rack for the winter. While there, still on the bench from summer, was the Dorman kit with the two boots in it. One boot is way too big, the other worked just fine on the '49. The part number is 13567. Just toss the big one in the odd parts bin and use the small one. Each part number gets you a SINGLE boot. I do not use any washers, steel plates, or anything else. Clean it all out of the way and just use the boot. James. James, the steel plates could help prevent the problem you mentioned in post 12. I think that is their exact purpose, provide a sliding bearing surface. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James_Douglas Posted November 3, 2019 Report Share Posted November 3, 2019 No, the steel plates are to hold the old leather in place. If you have every seen an NOS leather boot, they come with them on either end, they just come off over time. Use the modern rubber boot without anything. It is not a friction issue of sliding. It is that the PCV or thick rubber ones are so thick that the distance from the the underside of the tire rod housing to the face of the spindle arm (or drag link) is not enough to accommodate a thick wall boot. When you tighten the nut you bind that material between the two. The solution is to use a much thinner boot. James. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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