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Tony you have a good question, one I've been asked a lot from my friends once I started this.  I rebuilt quite a few Detroit 2 strokes when I was in the Guards and really wanted something somewhat period correct.  The 53 series came out in the 60's and I saw that someone put this engine in a Diamond T truck one time.  I agree they are loud and not overly fuel savvy but I think the cool factor is there.  I was toying with a 4BT or 6BT Cummins but really the allure of the 2 stroke kept me on that path.

 

I will be honest, finding one is getting very difficult but I have not looked overly hard yet either.  cost wise a 4 or 6BT is the same as the 4-53.

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2 hours ago, Lingle said:

so you guys were right, I cleaned off the area on the top of the pad and BINGO, there was the engine SN.  

IMG_3168.JPG

 

so from the following website I get that this engine is: 

http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/tengines.html 

 

T314 236ci or 251ci 25 inches Dodge Truck B-3-FL, B-4-FL, B-3-F, B-4-F, B-3-FA 1951-1953

 

I believe this is a 236.6ci engine.  

 

Thanks for the suggestion to look at the top of the block.

 

cool, haven't seen one staped up top before!

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sorry for lack of pictures, Ill get some tonight but I got the truck body completely off and was taking the doors apart and cannot for the life of me get the latch assemblies out of the doors.  I unscrew all the required screws and the latch/mechanism slides up and down inside the door on a vertical "u" channel and it will not come out.  The latch runs on the inside of the channel highlighted below.  It does not appear that you can move the latch assembly inward enough to clear this channel.  Anyone else have this issue?

window channel.jpg

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As with most big parts inside the doors, ya have to hold your tongue just right while grunting expletives then wiggle and twist then magically the part becomes extracted...walking away from it to cool off helps, loads of patience is required, and when it's all working again, the mundane functions of the entire door assembly are much more appreciated...I chatted up a guy showing his nicely restored '49 Chevy 1/2 ton that he drove 90 miles to a car show, and I asked to open and close the driver door; he smiled and obliged, watching me use just 2 fingers to complete this simple task, I said "oh that is just sweet music to my ears" and his smile got even bigger when he said YES IT IS and we both laughed, as we knew just how much work it takes to get these old doors back in shape :cool:

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15 minutes ago, Radarsonwheels said:

Is that the classic screamin jimmy from the 70s big rigs of my youth? Or I guess it’s before the 71 series deals?

 

Yes, almost all of the 2 strokes were coined "screamin jimmy".  53 series came out in the late 50's after the 71 series was released sometime back in the late 30's(per wikipedia: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Detroit_Diesel).  

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I love the sound of the screaming Jimmy!

A 10 speed OD Road Ranger would make the truck sound and drive just about right.  Just keep a bag of diapers for what DD's like to do...leak oil😂

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3 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

I love the sound of the screaming Jimmy!

A 10 speed OD Road Ranger would make the truck sound and drive just about right.  Just keep a bag of diapers for what DD's like to do...leak oil😂

 

I really thought about a RR, as others have done with this engine, a gentleman named Grigg has done this before and I've read much of his posts across several forums.  The issues I have with this is 1: need to have an air supply(and haven't decided if I want to go that route yet) and 2: changed direction and plan to do a 4wd conversion, and its not overly easy to adapt a RR to a transfer case and really do not want to have a divorced t-case.

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On the door latch... take the linkage arm that goes to the inside handle pivot and swing it down parallel to the door edge. Then you can roll the latch mechanism out around the inside channel. No tugging and cursing needed. 

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got the doors apart tonight, unfortunately didnt take any photos but am due to get my all new(to me) sheetmetal and cab sometime this week!  weather here in NE Iowa hasnt been overly good this week, was -2F this morning here.

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23 hours ago, Lingle said:

sorry for lack of pictures, Ill get some tonight but I got the truck body completely off and was taking the doors apart and cannot for the life of me get the latch assemblies out of the doors.  I unscrew all the required screws and the latch/mechanism slides up and down inside the door on a vertical "u" channel and it will not come out.  The latch runs on the inside of the channel highlighted below.  It does not appear that you can move the latch assembly inward enough to clear this channel.  Anyone else have this issue?

window channel.jpg

 

the circled is welded in at a place where it appears to be impossible to remove your parts.  As others have said, its a wiggle thing, finding the right angle/tip/stroke of luck to get parts out.  I can't describe what I do when I take doors down for parts, but once you figure it out, a little light bulb goes off in your head and you've got it.  Then of course, the gremlins dim it down for next time! :) Keep at it and keep up the good work!

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Not intending to hijack this thread but can someone provide a source for the curved Run 23-42-16 in the diagram?  I've searched Steele and Roberts with no luck.

 

Thanks,

 

Brad

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31 minutes ago, bkahler said:

Not intending to hijack this thread but can someone provide a source for the curved Run 23-42-16 in the diagram?  I've searched Steele and Roberts with no luck.

 

Thanks,

 

Brad

Brad,

 

is this what you are looking for from Roberts: https://www.robertsmotorparts.com/window-channel-without-chrome-dodge-truck-1928-1961-chrysler-dodge-desoto-plymouth-1928-1970-1 

 

 

DCM Classics also appears to have alot of parts selection for this era of truck, do not know if anyone has used them but here is their channel I believe: https://dcmclassics.com/dust-and-air-seals/225-rw-107-door-window-channel.html 

 

 

Edited by Lingle

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23 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

Seems that I remember getting the window run from Roberts. Do they not have it anymore?

 

They may list it but I couldn't find it based on their descriptions.  However, I have been known to miss things (frequently)!

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1 minute ago, Lingle said:

 

That may well be it.  If I remember right there are two tracks for each door window, one that is flexible enough to curve and one that is straight.  To me it looks like the straight track, but that's just my impression.  Or, is the straight track called the "division" channel?

 

 

 

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I found both this link and another one for the division channel between the window and the vent window but havent ordered anything yet since Im still in scoping and initial work.  I believe that the division bar is the straight one and then this other one(with the link) is ~8ft and would be trimmed down to fit your needs.

 

Eventually I will need all these parts since I had to cut the windows out from the weatherstripping as it was stuck in place.

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9 minutes ago, Lingle said:

I found both this link and another one for the division channel between the window and the vent window but havent ordered anything yet since Im still in scoping and initial work.  I believe that the division bar is the straight one and then this other one(with the link) is ~8ft and would be trimmed down to fit your needs.

 

Eventually I will need all these parts since I had to cut the windows out from the weatherstripping as it was stuck in place.

 

Looking things over I believe you're right.  The only other question is 8' for both windows or one?!

 

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I called Andy Bernbaum to verify and ordered.  One 8' length is enough for both doors.  Same for the window sweep, 8' takes care of both doors.

 

Thanks for letting me hijack!

 

Brad

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Super stoked my replacement body parts arrived today!  Cab is in worse shape than I expected but still better than the cab I had.  It barely fit on my 6x12 trailer!  Now to find some axles that are not stupid expensive.  Who knew a Dana 60 front axle would be almost $1000?

6440B264-AF75-4500-8074-514BA739F2B1.jpeg

C472A1F0-7B80-492E-8974-75442DF26961.jpeg

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47 minutes ago, Lingle said:

Super stoked my replacement body parts arrived today!  Cab is in worse shape than I expected but still better than the cab I had.  It barely fit on my 6x12 trailer!  Now to find some axles that are not stupid expensive.  Who knew a Dana 60 front axle would be almost $1000?

 

 

PM sent

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Got some work done this weekend, frame is in the warm garage!  Anyone know how to remove the spring bolts that hold the springs to the mounts?  The repair book isn't very good and I don't appear to have the tool referenced in the book.  DD-431 is the reference tool in the book for a headless spring removal tool.  In the photo I removed the grease zerk.

DFC3EF8C-D20B-43B2-8888-6B7AA5DFABD7.jpeg

EDC23B78-6008-4B77-8EDF-7988CCD46B03.jpeg

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There should be a hole on the backside of the pin...drive it out with no weight on the pin...

This is the tool that is used to do the job....good luck finding one

Miller DD Truck Leaf Spring pin removal tool (1).JPG

Miller DD Truck Leaf Spring pin removal tool (2).JPG

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1 hour ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

There should be a hole on the backside of the pin...drive it out with no weight on the pin...

This is the tool that is used to do the job....good luck finding one

Miller DD Truck Leaf Spring pin removal tool (1).JPG

Miller DD Truck Leaf Spring pin removal tool (2).JPG

Thanks!  Unfortunately someone moved the axle 16" rearward and didn't drill a whole in the frame to drive it out.  I'm going to build a puller and see if I can pull out using the grease zerk threads similar so what I think this tool does you show.

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