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1951 B3F Build Thread


Lingle

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I used a box from a 2002 F250 4wd but I'm running an all ford front end so no stock dodge parts to interface with.  I had to fabricate the mounting pad by welding on a flat page with holes and stand offs into the frame to inset the box and then the lower bolt is below the frame and needed to build a mount for it too.  I can find photos if you are interested.

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Thanks for the reply. I'm considering an option using a Chevy II gearbox as it looks very similar to the original and output shaft would fit the pitman arm I have. I think that would make it possible to use the existing drag link as I've already purchased replacement. I replaced the tie rods after installing the Scarebird disc brake conversion. (That's a story for another day.)

 

Yeah, any photos you've got would be useful.

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  • 10 months later...

been quite a bit since I posted any updates but I am doing work again.  I cut out the whole floor section and have started to put framing/structure back in.  In essence the floor heights wont change as I dont want to rebuild the cab mount locations.  Did find out the seats I bought are WAY too big depth wise(~30" from rear most point to where it ends under your thighs when you would be seated).  Tomorrow I am getting a set of Chrysler Sebring convertible seats as they too have built in seat belts, like the Ford ones shown in the photo.  I will then finish the floor support so the seats bolt directly to the fore-aft section of 1.5" square tubing that I am using.  I did learn I lost alot of structure and the doors sagged a bit, so have to re-level the doors before I put in the 3/4" square tubing I will have in the foot well area.  Then itll be on to building the firewall/dog house and sheetmetal.  I dont have a bead roller so will need to outsource the flooring when I get there, Ill make the templates and provide some of the metal, but a local place will need to bead roll it for stiffness.  Hope everyone is doing well.

 

 

IMG_0244.JPG.fe198ff994377f1b05354e4c09320b68.JPG

 

fore-aft angle iron will be removed and replaced with 1.5" square tube like the side to side ones shown

IMG_0245.JPG.9521942a5dd64f35f486d32d97ce8e24.JPG

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  • 2 weeks later...

Question for the group.  after repairing the floor and doing some rework, the doors are about as good as can be aligned, however I noticed on the B-pillar(sorry for no photos and cant get a snap of the parts catalog as the old website is not around) where the door ramp(below the latch point) interfaces is worn badly.  they appear to almost be a composite V shape that helps bring the door up to the latch point.  

 

I checked DCM and they dont show repair parts, does anyone know if those parts are available?  Even if they are composite/plastic?  I think I could drill out the rivets and move one side to the other if they are mirrored.

 

Apologies for no photos, but if I can Ill get a phot tonight from my cab.

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d.JPG.2f856cdef351a8f36aae03e38c06e9d0.JPG

No picture in the manual.

 

 

Is this what you are looking for?

s-l500.jpg.a9fc26a29be1a14a92dbc075ae6b9597.jpg  eBay

 

This is the male part...

s-l1600.jpg.560b9a448c0a5070c7f1a08ec54d5a7a.jpg

 

These are for a FORD, very similar and cheaper...

s-l1600.jpg.bf30d5f9e1e10cbad2507067cd6aa531.jpg

 

eBay

Edited by billrigsby
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58 minutes ago, billrigsby said:

d.JPG.2f856cdef351a8f36aae03e38c06e9d0.JPG

No picture in the manual.

 

 

Is this what you are looking for?

s-l500.jpg.a9fc26a29be1a14a92dbc075ae6b9597.jpg  eBay

 

This is the male part...

s-l1600.jpg.560b9a448c0a5070c7f1a08ec54d5a7a.jpg

 

These are for a FORD, very similar and cheaper...

s-l1600.jpg.bf30d5f9e1e10cbad2507067cd6aa531.jpg

 

eBay

 

Yes that would be it!  The Ford ones do look like some sort of plastic or other material.  the good news is they are the same part number for the female items, so in theory you could remove them from one side and move to the other since the wear is almost exclusively on the lower part(at least on my cab).  Thanks for the quick feedback!

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  • 2 months later...

finally getting some time to work on Project Mater!  got the firewall all mocked up.  Used a trailer fender and cut down to fit for a nice looking area around the bell housing.  Then made a wireframe buck out of TIG rod to get the shape of the firewall ironed out.  I follow Karl Fisher, MakeItKustom on YouTube, to learn about sheetmetal and other autobody items and this is how he makes various sheetmetal parts.

 

as seen below, I made the firewall as close to the engine as comfortable to make room for the Vintage Air HVAC system as well as a heater.  Likely I will weld shut the cowl vent.

 

IMG_0869.JPG.701740e446faf44e3c1834c922892554.JPG

 

IMG_0870.JPG.7cd9ef5b71f77d0e34da6f0cf8f6bdff.JPG

 

IMG_0871.JPG.1692e0767a2d2a8ccb5993dca291f064.JPG

 

 

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18 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

Round those edges!  No sharp angles!  ?

 

thats the plan, I suspect you are mostly talking about the aluminum pedal support bracket between the pedals and the dash?  for the firewall Ill try to make it as rounded as I can, but I dont have a English wheel and the neighbors finger break press can do decent radius.  I kept the old firewall I cut out as a reference and see how well I do

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Corners and edges on the firewall.  It's easy to make a MDF buck and hammer form a 3/4" radius in 16 ga (or lighter) to make it look more factory than a sharp welded or brake press edge/corner.

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  • 1 month later...

That’s epic!! Nice work! 

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  • 2 months later...

summertime is hard for me to find time to work on the project but am finding some time to do some things.  First up I have sourced some new engine parts, newer bypass blower, upgraded injectors and finally after 6+ months of searching I found turbo parts.

 

sheetmetal for the floor and firewall have been sourced, 14ga to get as close to stock thickness.  Just started layout work so here are some photos, I am hoping by this weekend I have them all trial fit, firewall bent up and can see about replacing the toeboards/cab parts near the front cab mounts.

 

the black lines in the first photo are for where to drill for the spot welds I plan to put in.  I will fully weld the sheet to the existing cab structure but to the floor structure spot welds.  recommendation on how many spot welds(i.e. # per inch)?

 

IMG_1602.JPG.c4c73257dd32c78c389e25a9c400c3e9.JPG

 

IMG_1603.JPG.b9dc87e4bb8f3ce8a6553930390c58b7.JPG

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I did my plug welds at 2" apart.  I also made sure I had a floor support under the locations the seats and seat belts would bolt down.  2" apart was a common reference by a number of those TV builders for placing plug welds.

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Thanks everyone!  given my floor structure being fairly close I opted not to do bead rolling(also finding someone to do that was proving difficult and purchasing the tools wasn't at the top of my list).

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got some more work done, wont be able to work on Mater until next week but got the foot floor area installed and welded in, started to look at the firewall and looks like the pre-bent pieces I made last week will work good, going to be fun filling in all the open spots, Im not a sheetmetal/thin metal person so learning as I go.

 

the black lever in the phot is my transfer case shift ever, and the square opening next to it is where the gear shift lever goes.

 

IMG_1621.JPG.22afb3b4583356e77aee584174a9a431.JPG

 

somewhat angled photo but the top of the sheetmetal firewall will be parallel to the ground and be welded into what is left of the existing firewall

 

IMG_1622.JPG.36e70daa4a94a52a82d9ff6d93e6c7e3.JPG

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Looking good, a lot of work taking on a project like this. Thanks for taking us along.

 

I know nothing about your engine. If there are any sensors or something you may need to access in the future .... now is the time to add a access panel.

 

Was just thinking about a newer Dodge truck with a gasoline motor. Was either a crank or cam sensor located in this area.

Was something stupid like pull the engine or the transmission to get to it.

These modern engines do some stupid stuff.

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  • 2 months later...

havent been working much on the truck since last update but I did stop by DCM Classics when I was in Holland, MI over the weekend(actually on Friday).  that place is pretty sweet and the staff were awesome!  got some sheetmetal parts while there to work on my cab.

 

hope all is well with everyone!

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That crew is awesome. Seems they are having some website issues. ... Couple weeks ago I ordered a parking light lens from them ...... While installing my original glass one, I dropped it on the concrete and broke it  :(

 

I ordered the part and went through the full steps. After the final step I expect to see a page that says order has been placed .... instead I get a 504 error.

So thinking I messed  up I ordered again .... and got the same 504 error at the end.

 

About 15 minute later DCM calls me on the phone, asked if I wanted 1 or 2 lenses. Explained that the order goes through, just the customer see's the error and they are working on fixing it.

 

I received the lens in a few days, to my surprise it was also glass like the original .... I was expecting plastic.

It was also cheapest at $26, on ebay they were selling $35-$40.

 

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