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1951 B3F Build Thread


Lingle

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Yes...I now see the spring brackets don't line up with the doubled frame reinforcement cross braces

They can be tough to remove sometimes. You also could unbolt one bracket at a time and let it flop up  by lowering the frame to drive the pin out.

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2 hours at most anyway ya do it. Git her done!?

 

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3 hours ago, 48Dodger said:

 

Thanks 48D!  Im hoping mine come out as easy as your fronts do, but I highly doubt it.  Going to do that later this week I hope.

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You need to realize that 48D has a Californian truck where there is no salt and minimal rust like our midwestern trucks. They will not come out that simple.  
Plus I think our midwestern trucks worked harder!! ?

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2 hours ago, Todd B said:

You need to realize that 48D has a Californian truck where there is no salt and minimal rust like our midwestern trucks. They will not come out that simple.  
Plus I think our midwestern trucks worked harder!! ?

 

lol......after I just drove my 2012 truck over 40 hours to meet you guys....wow...just, wow.  ?

 

48D

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  • 3 weeks later...

sorry guys, been busy so not much work done.  I was able to get the rear axle out last night, as well as finished removing all the cab and running board mounts.  anyone have suggestions on how many leaf springs to remove?  I do not need the 14K payload capacity, nor the incredibly rough(supposedly) ride when done so when I swap in the Sterling 10.25" axle I want to remove some leaf springs to increase ride quality.  Also, still working on removing those darn welded on leaf spring mounts...cant quite get the pins out after spending some quality time with the hammer.  Can I use excessive amounts of heat to help or will that damage them?

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1 hour ago, Lingle said:

sorry guys, been busy so not much work done.  I was able to get the rear axle out last night, as well as finished removing all the cab and running board mounts.  anyone have suggestions on how many leaf springs to remove?  I do not need the 14K payload capacity, nor the incredibly rough(supposedly) ride when done so when I swap in the Sterling 10.25" axle I want to remove some leaf springs to increase ride quality.  Also, still working on removing those darn welded on leaf spring mounts...cant quite get the pins out after spending some quality time with the hammer.  Can I use excessive amounts of heat to help or will that damage them?

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Something tells me when that B3F is assembled, getting out that 7' door might be a challenge!

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So finally got the rear spring mounts uncut from the frame and had to use a press to remove the pins from the mounts to fully disassemble them.  Took almost the max comfort level I had to press them out, they were froze badly.  Unfortunately found that several of the brass/copper bushings in both the perch bracket and inside the leaf springs are oblonged and need replaced.  Any one recommend a good place for 1 1/2 ton parts?  I will be able to salvage the mounting brackets and bolt them back in the original location but will need new bushings to make them nice.

 

Also, does anyone know can I just press out the brass bushing that is inside the leaf spring?

 

Glad I have some time off over the holiday to work on the beast!

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Edited by Lingle
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When I did my semi I took them bushings out that look like brass. They’re technically a different metal but I don’t remember what. I took them to an old German machinist and he measured them and handed  them back to me. Went to get them week later and I tried to install them. They appeared to be a little to large in diameter and I could not slide them in. I called the old machinist and told him I can’t get them to slide in. He very bluntly said put them in a freezer for an hour and slide them in and there’s  no need for you to call me back.  They slid right in. He even made grooves around the outside for the grease to roll through. It amazed  the heck out of me.   

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On 12/26/2019 at 1:10 PM, Todd B said:

When I did my semi I took them bushings out that look like brass. They’re technically a different metal but I don’t remember what. I took them to an old German machinist and he measured them and handed  them back to me. Went to get them week later and I tried to install them. They appeared to be a little to large in diameter and I could not slide them in. I called the old machinist and told him I can’t get them to slide in. He very bluntly said put them in a freezer for an hour and slide them in and there’s  no need for you to call me back.  They slid right in. He even made grooves around the outside for the grease to roll through. It amazed  the heck out of me.   

Bronze?

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52 minutes ago, ggdad1951 said:

Bronze?

Yes bronze, sorry for the wrong metal.  A few hours on my friends lathe and I made a press insert for removing the bushing from the leaf spring.

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3 hours ago, Lingle said:

Yes bronze, sorry for the wrong metal.  A few hours on my friends lathe and I made a press insert for removing the bushing from the leaf spring.

I thought that's what cheap sockets were for? I removed and pressed in new ones with my Craftsman impact sockets and the bench vise. 

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20 hours ago, Young Ed said:

I thought that's what cheap sockets were for? I removed and pressed in new ones with my Craftsman impact sockets and the bench vise. 

Agreed, but since I cannot find replacements for the 1 1/2 ton trucks, Rare Parts makes them for the 1/2 ton, I need to carefully remove them so I can either make new ones myself, find someone to do that, but need good measurements, plus playing for a few hours on the lathe is always fun!  I was able to get some B3 van bushings from Autozone that appear to be the correct ID and OD, but too long, so will most likely mill them down to length, but they are $45 each, and needing 4, it would be cheaper to build my own since 1 1/8" Bronze hollow round bar is <$100 for a 12" piece and I only need 10" plus a little.  Lathe time is free at my friends, just how much is my time worth.

 

Anyone have any thoughts if they know who may sell pre-made bronze bushings for the 1 1/2 ton?  Also, 4 of the 6 "bolts", as Dodge called them, are shot.  I am reaching out to DCM Classics since he was kind enough to call me back to see if they somehow have bushings.  It appears they sell the 1/2 ton ones, but big truck parts are rare.  Ill let everyone know what I find!

 

Also, the upper shackle to frame mount bushings are super thin to begin with(from the factory), removing them would almost be impossible without damaging so despite there being some play in them, I wont be able to machine those myself so they will have to stay as-is.  It seems the spring to mount and spring to lower shackle bushings take the most abuse.

 

Happy holidays everyone!

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So finally got all the rear suspension bushings cut to length...only to find out that only 1 of them has the correct ID.  Back to the lathe to remove material(and the bronze inlay is only a few thousandths thick to begin with).  Ended up removing 0.001-0.002" to make the leaf spring bolts pass through the new bushings, and still have enough wear surface to feel comfortable.  Lots of time on the lathe and many more to go!  Painting the modified leaf spring/shackle mounts and cleaning up the first leaf spring.  Ill get some photos posted but getting much closer to installing the rear axle.  Ill be buying some true bronze bushings to see if they will fit as well, but I am not confident they will fit since they are 1 1/8(1.125) OD and my spring eyes are 1.130-1.135" but its worth having backups.   

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finalized reassembly of my rear leaf springs.  I removed the overload springs and 4 springs from the main pack, going from 10 down to 6.  I do not need the load carrying capacity, and looking for slightly better ride quality but it will be some time before I can see if I chose the right 4 springs to remove.  here are some photos of the cleaned and painted leaf spring pack, with top plate and u-bolts.  When I return from India I will work on installing the Ford 10.25" rear axle then it will be time to start on the front axle, which is looking to be significant work, since I need to make frame extensions to mount it, since the leaf spring perches cannot be moved on the Dana 60 and they are 37-38" wide and my frame width in front is ~30"....lots of fab work!

 

 

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Edited by Lingle
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  • 5 weeks later...

hey all, sorry for the lack of updates.  Travelled internationally for work and got busy working on the truck and didn't do any updates!  Got the front suspension removed from the truck, once again the shackle end bushings in both the leaf spring and the frame mount are shot.  Luckily the spring bushings are a common size(13/16" ID x 1 1/16" OD) so those are easy to find but the shackle end frame mount bushings are completely gone, and not common size so back to machining(after I travel again?!?).  On a good note, finally found a engine, unfortunately it is not the turbo version I am looking for but it does have the lower configuration I need to ensure it fits in between the frame rails.  I can do all my major powertrain layout with this engine, still needing to source the transmission and bell housing adapter(when funds get refilled of course :).  

 

I hope everyone is having a good start to the year!  Oh, and look at the way the engine squatted my 3/4 ton truck.  Good thing I am keeping all 7 leaf springs in the front of the Dodge when I put in this engine!

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Edited by Lingle
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  • 1 month later...

Once again I was MIA but got some work done this weekend.  4wd Dana 60 is located, leaf springs re-bushed, painted and reassembled.  Blasted cab mounts and first coast of POR-15 applied.  Hopefully this week I'll finalize the frame extensions since the Dana 60 spring perches are 3 1/4" wider than stock axle.  Am able to keep the stock suspension all around, which was the goal.

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Edited by Lingle
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  • 3 weeks later...

Over the weekend I was able to re-make my frame extension, found out I needed to widen the frame a total of 6" and not the 6 1/2" I built the first time and the axle wouldnt fit.  So 3" extensions for both sides were mocked up and half built so I could reinstall the Dana 60 to make sure it now fits...and it does!  Will work on boxing the mounts and welding them to the frame.  Plan to still bolt the leaf spring mounts on but the 3" extension will be welded to the frame for stiffness.  Overall turned out very well.

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Edited by Lingle
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Great holiday weekend, I hope everyone else also had a good time, despite the challenging times we are in.  I made a ~280 mile trip one way to pick up another engine for the project, eastern NE is not the loveliest place but still nice drive.  I maintained social distance requirements during the trip and it was worth getting an engine I was looking for.

 

I spent Saturday and Sunday finishing up welding my frame extensions, so I can now say that the front suspension is ~90% complete.  I will be adding shocks eventually, so its not completely done.  Dana 60 will be partially re-assembled next, followed by putting the cab on the frame to start setting in the engine and seeing how much re-work the firewall needs, I am hoping for little rework, but in the back of my mind I suspect it'll be more than I expect.  For only being a 4 cylinder, the Detroit 4-53 is ~40" long.

 

Here are some photos of my trip to Nebraska and the mostly finished front suspension.  It is hard to see but the engine came from Plainview, NE.  A town of ~1400.  Got a really good deal on the engine, plus steering box and some fuel tanks from a late 70's/early 80's Chevy C60/70 straight truck.

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Edited by Lingle
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  • 1 month later...

sorry for the lack of updates, been busy and with the COVID items, money has been somewhat tight.  I was able to complete rebuilding the front axle(minus calipers) and have it fully installed in the frame.  Since it will be a year or so before I finish, I will not buy the calipers until closer to finishing the project.  Edit: just noticed that I do not have the steering link in the photos, it is attached, just not in these photos.

 

I then moved on to putting the cab and hood on the frame to start seeing how to fit the new powerplant.  As it sits on stands in the garage, it is about 10" lower than when finished, so it will for sure not fit in the garage, and how to finish the build is now a problem I will be looking to resolve.  I think I will make some dolly's that bolt to the wheel hubs that have casters so I can move it around without putting the massive 37" tires on it.  

 

I am hoping to bring my replacement/spare cab back next weekend to start the true fitment of the engine, no sense modifying 2 cabs when I can just modify the cab I plan to use in the end.

 

Hope everyone is doing well in these troubling times.

Completed Front Axle 1.JPG

Completed Front Axle 2.JPG

Cab_Hood for engine layout.JPG

Engine for Layout.JPG

Edited by Lingle
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