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Voltage regulator questions


JSabah

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Sorry if these questions sound ridiculous but in looking for a new voltage regulator and some listing titles are causing me to question myself.... (going from 6v to 12v neg ground - keeping a generator)

 

1. do voltage regulators care if it is for an alternator or generator ?

 

2.  do they care if positive or negative ground?

 

3. is there an amperage max (I saw one listed for 15A)?  If so what would you suggest getting - standard car, no stereo etc?

 

looking for some that looks like standard equipment on a 49 Plymouth woodie (ie like what they used when they went to 12v in 50?51?52?)

 

thank you,

Josh

 

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1.) You should prefer alternators with built- in regulators, leaving the old regulator only as terminal clip for the wires.

    Alternators can be found in modern or old-style housings, + or - gnd, 6 or 12 V.

https://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=545

I don´t know if generator regulators are compatible with alternators.

2.) Our common regulators have no polarity. Maybe You may have to polarize a new generator.

3.) You should prefer a high- rated regulator, if You have the choice. One argument is the durability of the contacts:

higher rating lasts longer. Bernbaums list different types for 1940-1942 / 1943-1955 etc...  for  $89,-

https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-electrical.aspx

 

If You want to change to 12 V neg. grunded I thing You can find all at Your local car supply (NAPA?).

Greetings from Düsseldorf!

Go

 

 

Edited by Go Fleiter
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1. do voltage regulators care if it is for an alternator or generator ?

    YES! Generator regulators function much differently than alternator regulators.

 

2.  do they care if positive or negative ground?

     NO. A generator voltage regulator can be flashed after installation to conform it to the polarity of the vehicle.

 

3. is there an amperage max (I saw one listed for 15A)?  If so what would you suggest getting - standard car, no stereo etc?

    YES. Voltage regulators also have an amperage limiter and should be matched to the generator.

 

Also, voltage regulators for generators come in a couple different types. Type A and Type B, as I recall. It is very important that you get the proper type to match your generator. It has to do with the way it regulates the field coils.

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the ever popular GM one wire is not necessary one wire if you want to protect your battery/components when in use...GM always connected them as a three wire....you need feed back "sense" wire installed...secondly unless you rev to excite...there is no output unless you again connect the second of the small wires for tickle voltage.  Third and my biggest problem is the inability to test the regulator section without removal and disassembly...these alternators are not installed because they are better, they are installed as they are quick cheap and easy..not in any manner close to superior.  Self tickling alts of this style are available..but without sense connections...you risking modern components such as Pertronix and radio...etc

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https://www.hotrod.com/articles/faulty-alternators-quick-test

 

Saw this test a while back, thought I post it for Plymouthy and others that may have interest.

Have never had a problem with the GM 1 wire alt. that I have used, but you never know.

 

DJ

 

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The thought occured  to me the other day that you could retain the “authentic appearance” of your car (and the function) by using a 12 volt generator. A 1956 12 volt generator could be found that would bolt right on and its regulator would fit in the same place with the same connections. My car a 1952 Suburban doesn’t have 5 networked computers, A/C and huge under hood heat loads from emissions equipment, so why do I need an alternator?

The worst thing a generator ever did in my experience was caused by abuse. My Dad had a 1955 Ford (272 V8) that he use to rev up like a crazy person when he got on the freeway. Seated on the passenger side at night was always interesting as huge glowing red hot fire balls came over the top of the hood and headed right for my head! It turned out that the generator was being spin at well beyond its design limits and the solder was coming out of it in the globs I observed. One day it just stopped working. On the kitchen table he took a hammer and chisel and “Improved” all the connections on the armature. Then it was again off to the races! The fire balls never returned after that. 

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