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1950 Plymouth


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Most folks will go to their local big box store and buy bulk line and prepare their own lines.  If you do not have a flaring tool, suggest buying premade  lengths to make your line.  Couplers are available at the store also for making the joint.

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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Any auto parts store sells the lines . The newer copper-nickle line is easier to bend . It is the same tubing that is used for brake lines . Some people use a double flare tool to make their own from a roll of tubing and others use the pre made lines and ad a union from the long stretch . 

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I watched a few You Tube videos. Bought a double flare tool. I practiced a few times. Wrecked a few flares. Got it right and now build all my own lines. I am confident enough now to put all new fuel or brake lines on my vehicles. The bending and shaping can seem tricky but it’s not.  With a little practice you’ll have developed the skill and eye to get it right. A couple of different types bending tools is helpful. 

 

Rewarding too , when you get it right. 

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You will want to also replace the flexible line between the hard line and fuel pump. You can either make one with barbed fittings, adapters and rubber fuel hose or purchase one here:

 

https://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-fuel.aspx

 

As others have suggested, I used pre-made sections of 5/16" brake line purchased at a local parts store. Tape up the open ends of the tubing as you snake it through the gaps in the frame to prevent introducing crud into the line. The line running at the front of the frame  past the front wheel and under the radiator may test your patience....just consider it a character-enhancing experience......   :)

 

A good filter near the tank in an easily accessible location will keep any crud from the tank out of your new fuel line. I like this type:

 

https://www.autozone.com/fuel-systems/performance-fuel-filter/spectre-5965-fuel-filter/228357_0_0

 

3

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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I just did my brake lines, the bending tool and the double flare tool was probably close to $100. They are good quality , the flare tool was $65, I forgot what I paid for the bender.

Now I own the tools and will be ready for when I do the fuel line.

 

The pre made steel lines are cheap, and easy to cut and re-flare. I was able to remove my old lines, brake and fuel lines and keep them as a pattern to copy and make the new lines.

As others said, the nickel/copper lines are easy to bend by hand and work with. They probably will never rust out.

I figure the old steel lines lasted 70 years, if the new steel lines last 30 years, is longer then I will need them.

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Also, Beware the ferrel!!!  Where the line attaches to the tank there is an internal ferrel about the size of a pencil eraser.  When you disconnect the line from the tank, it will fall out and the garage Gremlins will grab it, and hide it some where in the deepest, darkest corner of your garage, never to be seen again.  This piece seals the flare of the line to a seat in the outlet fitting.  With out it the connection will leak, suck air and generally make your tank and fuel pump incomcomudo.

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9 hours ago, greg g said:

Also, Beware the ferrel!!!  Where the line attaches to the tank there is an internal ferrel about the size of a pencil eraser.  When you disconnect the line from the tank, it will fall out and the garage Gremlins will grab it, and hide it some where in the deepest, darkest corner of your garage, never to be seen again.  This piece seals the flare of the line to a seat in the outlet fitting.  With out it the connection will leak, suck air and generally make your tank and fuel pump incomcomudo.

I think that was over with by 1950 but a good calllout for p15 owners!

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On 10/22/2019 at 12:44 PM, greg g said:

Also, Beware the ferrel!!!  Where the line attaches to the tank there is an internal ferrel about the size of a pencil eraser.  When you disconnect the line from the tank, it will fall out and the garage Gremlins will grab it, and hide it some where in the deepest, darkest corner of your garage, never to be seen again.  This piece seals the flare of the line to a seat in the outlet fitting.  With out it the connection will leak, suck air and generally make your tank and fuel pump incomcomudo.

 

 

the same  critter also steals 10mm sockets and spring clips from carburetors 

Edited by derbydad276
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Also would suggest that you install an inline 6 volt positive ground electric fuel pump back on the car frame near the fuel tank to serve as additional  pump for priming the engine after the car has sat for week or longer also acts to get fuel to the car incase you get a vapor lock.  Build this into you refuel line at the same time and then run a wire upto the dash with a toggle switch to turn it off and on as needed.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

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