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Larkin.19

1940 Dodge D14 status update

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Hey guys, I know it has been awhile. I've done some electrical work to my D14. Dotty now has new plates and I've replaced the engine and dashboard wiring harness with one from Rhode Island Wiring. One problem though: still no spark. I was thinking maybe the distributor points or the coil might be the problem. I was wondering if you guys had any ideas? Also, my high school requires seniors to complete a senior project, and I have chosen to make Dotty my project!

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Points opening & closing?

condenser in distributor ok?

coil ok?

You just rewired under the hood. all wires connected properly?

 Good luck.

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As PLYMJiM says have you checked the new wiring  and connections.............I'd get a trouble light, and check the power feed from the ignition switch, starter pedal/button, coil, dissy......all the way thru the various circuits........does it turn over o/k? or just plain nothing?......is the battery connected up properly?............from your 1st pic it appears that your car uses the original ammored cable from the ignition switch down to the firewall mounted coil........is the wiring connected there?........your mention that you have replaced the engine and dash wiring.....was the new harness an EXACT COPY, ie, with NO changes?...........did it start with the old wiring?.......did you keep it and have you as mentioned checked all the connections?.............andyd  

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On 10/22/2019 at 9:24 PM, Andydodge said:

As PLYMJiM says have you checked the new wiring  and connections.............I'd get a trouble light, and check the power feed from the ignition switch, starter pedal/button, coil, dissy......all the way thru the various circuits........does it turn over o/k? or just plain nothing?......is the battery connected up properly?............from your 1st pic it appears that your car uses the original ammored cable from the ignition switch down to the firewall mounted coil........is the wiring connected there?........your mention that you have replaced the engine and dash wiring.....was the new harness an EXACT COPY, ie, with NO changes?...........did it start with the old wiring?.......did you keep it and have you as mentioned checked all the connections?.............andyd  

My harness is from rhode island wiring, and they did it stock. everything is connected tightly. I ordered a new distributor kit from oldmoparts and it came yesterday and i will install it soon. My engine turns over just fine and ignition is good. Im thinking it the points or the coil.

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When cranking over the engine are you getting fuel upto the carb.  Could be a fuel pump issue also or a clogged line.

 

With these older cars a lot of the members have installed a 6v electric fuel pump near the gas tank to help with starting.

The electric pumps are the pusher style and not the puller like the mechanical pump on the engine block.

 

Rich HArtung

desoto1939@aol.com

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12 hours ago, Larkin.19 said:

My harness is from rhode island wiring, and they did it stock. everything is connected tightly. I ordered a new distributor kit from oldmoparts and it came yesterday and i will install it soon. My engine turns over just fine and ignition is good. Im thinking it the points or the coil.

 

I guess I fail to understand the comment the ignition is good but you thinking points or coil......these are the heart of the ignition...it pumps it to each cylinder as and when needed...split the system at the coil and trouble shoot if electrical supply or if triggering through the points may the issue...VOM is you buddy and right hand man right now.

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On 11/7/2019 at 10:47 AM, desoto1939 said:

When cranking over the engine are you getting fuel upto the carb.  Could be a fuel pump issue also or a clogged line.

 

With these older cars a lot of the members have installed a 6v electric fuel pump near the gas tank to help with starting.

The electric pumps are the pusher style and not the puller like the mechanical pump on the engine block.

 

Rich HArtung

desoto1939@aol.com

My fuel pump is fine, but the problem is no spark. Currently replacing points, rotor, distributor cap and condenser. 

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Can you have someone help you test to verify that you are or not getting.  HAve someone sit in the car. Pull the number 1 sparkplug wire from the sparkplug. Use an insulated puller to hold the end of the wire near the head or near the top of the number 1 plug. Have the other person  turnthe key and crank over the engine.  See if you are getting spark at the number one plug or not. This will tell you that you have a spark or no spark.  Did you take out the dizzy and then got out of fireing order by 180 degress. The end of your dissy has a slot so you are either dead on or 180 out of rotation for firing order.  Is the dizzy even turning or spinning the rotor when you crank the engine.  So pull the cap have someone crank the car to verify that the rotor is rotating correctly.

 

One time I did not get the slot allthe way down into the oilpump slot so I was not getting the rotor to spin but the engine did crank over.  So also check this area.  Are the sparkplugs wires in the correct holes in the dis cap and also on the correct sparkplugs to make the correct spark at the correct time during the rotation process?

 

Rich HArtung

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When you are replacing the cap, rotor, condenser, points, etc, pay special attention to the small primary ignition wire from the coil to the distributor. Especially where it mounts to side of the distributor housing. There are little fibre washers in there. These washers, isolate and ensure the electrical flow can't take a short cut from the coil to ground here at this connection. If there is a short in this area, there will be no spark at the plugs. The electrical flow must go through the points to ground when the points close. Also ensure this wire is in good soft condition. No cracks, no exposed areas. It's easy to make a new wire and use heat shrink near the ends to be extra sure.

Edited by keithb7

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also check where the small wire in the above reply that there should be a rubber plug that has a slot that the tag from the breaker plate extends to attachs the wire.  If the tab is hitting the body of the dizzy body this will also cause you to ground ut the dizzy.  There also should be a small bakelite brownish material on the breaker plate tab to help stop the BP from grounding out.  I have seenthe rubber plugs on ebay. I still might have a few in my supply area.

 

I just did a search on ebay and the part is Autolite IGS-34  there are acouple listed and it also has a picture of the rubber plug this plug was used from 1935-50

Mopar part number 648029 this is a picture of the plug from ebay

image.png.ebffd089bfadbd74ff8d480ffca532dc.png

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com 

Edited by desoto1939

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