Jim G Posted May 28, 2021 Report Share Posted May 28, 2021 On 5/25/2021 at 2:16 PM, bkahler said: Talk to me about that master cylinder!? what is it from? where'd you get etc! Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim G Posted May 28, 2021 Report Share Posted May 28, 2021 On 5/6/2021 at 8:31 AM, Jeff Balazs said: I use mine pretty much everyday this time of year. It would be get way too stuffy in the cab without it. Had it open on my drive to work this morning at 530am. To me this vent is an essential item and needs to work correctly. Jeff My Springer used to love to stick her nose out the cowl vent on my Fargo always amazed me how she knew where we were just from that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted May 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 I finally got around to making a punch for making the PTFE washers I needed for the dash switches and pull cables. I used a 3/4" black pipe nipple and turned one end on the lathe to make a die type punch. In hind sight using a pipe nipple wasn't the best choice because the metal is so soft. But, it worked well enough to punch some washers out. It actually worked better cutting than the store bought punch I used for the inner cutout. I guess at the end of the day I was able to create the washers I needed so I'm happy Brad 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted May 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 21 hours ago, Jim G said: Talk to me about that master cylinder!? what is it from? where'd you get etc! Thanks in advance. Jim, I bought the Master Cylinder from Amazon. It fits a 97-06 Jeep Wrangler. I chose it for the fact that it was a match for the Jeep Wrangler rear end I installed with disc brakes along with the new Rusty Hope front disc brakes and most importantly it fit in the limited space where the original master cylinder fit. I did have to fabricate an aluminum adapter plate to get it to fit properly. I can't say how well it's works because I haven't driven the truck yet but I'm not to worried about it, others have used the same or similar master cylinders. Brad 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted May 29, 2021 Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 1 hour ago, bkahler said: Brad I've been wondering about this is that switch plate for the air, defrost, heater controls supposed to be painted to match the body color? I have a couple of them and they're both black with no sign of ever being any other color. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted May 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 1 hour ago, billrigsby said: I've been wondering about this is that switch plate for the air, defrost, heater controls supposed to be painted to match the body color? I have a couple of them and they're both black with no sign of ever being any other color. Bill, my guess is black is the correct color. I believe these were dealer (or customer) installed accessories. I never removed mine from the cab when it went to the painters so it got painted cab color. Originally my truck was black and the bracket was black. If it bugs me enough then someday I might remove the bracket and paint it black but I've got enough other things to deal w with already Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted May 29, 2021 Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 (edited) The way that trucks coming along and looking, somehow I don't think that little green switch plate is ever going to bother you Edited May 29, 2021 by billrigsby 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted May 29, 2021 Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 Yah every one I've seen was black....but your truck, your choice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted May 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 Back when I first got the truck and started dismantling it, it never dawned on me that the heater and defroster components didn't come standard with the truck. So it seemed natural that the bracket would be cab color as well. It just so happened that my truck was black. It wasn't until I got a parts manual that I realized they were optional. There's enough details on the truck that are not correct so for me it's not worth worrying about anymore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve-L Posted May 29, 2021 Report Share Posted May 29, 2021 (edited) The stuff you learn watching/reading others progress on their projects. So I thought I’d look at the dash in my 52 B3B to see if it was the same. i.e. black in color. Forgetting that my 52 is/was black, but as you can see. These days it has very little black on the outside. i just realized that the panel you’re talking about is to the left of the steering column, where my truck has nothing. I haven’t looked to closely but maybe my heater controls are in the panel just below the speaker. Edited May 29, 2021 by Steve-L Light bulb moment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted May 30, 2021 Report Share Posted May 30, 2021 additional information - optional heater control locations Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2021 (edited) I'm probably past due in providing an update on my truck. Unfortunately not a lot has been done in the intervening months since I last posted. The good news is I'm really close to the point where I can try and start the engine for the first time. The starter motor is ready to install once I put the ID plate on. The ID plate is currently being stamped by someone in CA and I should have it in my hands in a few weeks. I'm in the middle of the generator rebuild and would really like to have it close to being done over the Thanksgiving holiday. Once these two components are installed the engine is essentially complete and ready to run. Of course I still need to add fluids to the engine, cooling system and transmission as well as either finish the engine compartment wiring or install some temporary wiring. I've made the switch to 12 volts and bought a new 12 volt regulator and had it installed. A few weeks ago I was looking at one of the sub forums here and ran across a post by someone who had their regulator converted to solid state. I contacted the company doing the work which resulted in me sending the new regulator to them so they could convert it. Here's a few pictures of the new regulator. I guess time will tell if the conversion was worth it. Brad Edited December 14, 2021 by bkahler 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted November 19, 2021 Report Share Posted November 19, 2021 20 minutes ago, bkahler said: The starter motor is ready to install once I put the ID plate on. The ID plate is currently being stamped by someone in CA and I should have it in my hands in a few weeks. Wondering what source you're using for your data tag, I'm working with this gentleman and he has to have one stamped for me. Data Tags Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2021 7 minutes ago, billrigsby said: Wondering what source you're using for your data tag, I'm working with this gentleman and he has to have one stamped for me. Data Tags Same guy. He didn't have the tag for my starter so I sent him my old one and he's reproducing it at this time. This is the plate he didn't have available. I'm looking forward to see how well the reproductions look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted November 19, 2021 Report Share Posted November 19, 2021 Okay, I am waiting for the generator tag, he only had one from Canada. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted November 20, 2021 Report Share Posted November 20, 2021 Lol I had a guy in POLAND do mine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted November 20, 2021 Report Share Posted November 20, 2021 11 minutes ago, ggdad1951 said: Lol I had a guy in POLAND do mine! I'm getting a package from that guy any day now.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2021 I'm happy to say I got a bunch of piddley things done today. Installed the choke cable, throttle cable, temperature control cable, defroster cable and fresh air control cable. I had an issue with the throttle cable in that I couldn't pull it out by hand. I decided to try and push the gas pedal first and then tried pulling the cable and it pulled out nice and easy. I never thought about it before but it makes sense pushing the pedal would eliminate the effort of pulling on all of the linkage. Anyway, it works and I'm moving on to other tasks I also put the electrical connectors on the wires that connect to the voltage regulator. And last I installed a couple of 1/4" welch plugs in the rear carburetor to plug the opening where the choke plate shaft used to be. Only the front carb has a choke. The parking brake interferes with the rear choke so I had to eliminate it. The dash area is pretty much complete with the exception of installing all of the connectors at the ends of the wires and connecting them. I'm hoping to spend time tomorrow and later this coming week to see if I can finish up the dash. At least it's progress! Brad 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted November 23, 2021 Report Share Posted November 23, 2021 On 11/19/2021 at 7:38 PM, ggdad1951 said: Lol I had a guy in POLAND do mine! I am waiting for a new serial number/VIN tag from him also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2021 It's been a fairly productive week working on the truck along with other pressing issues around the property. I probably spent two to three hours a day since 19th working on the electrical wiring and other odds and ends under the dash. Other than the wiper motor switch to voltage reducer and the cigar lighter the wiring under the dash is complete. I do need to kind of tidy things up a little as well. I should have these last two items finished later today as I'm supposed to receive the voltage reducer via USPS today. A smart man would have installed the electrical terminals before installing the wire harness but I was worried the wires would be to short or to long so I opted to install the terminals after the fact. That decision definitely made things more difficult but in the end the job is done and that's what matters The directions for installing the turn signal switch (Signal-Stat 800-C) mentioned having to scrap some paint off the steering column to provide a ground connection. That kind of torqued me a little but in the end I scraped the paint and moved on. It would have been so much cleaner if they had just provided a ground wire I found this label that was attached to the turn signal lever somewhat humorous. For the most part everything went well but installing the bullet connectors turned out to be somewhat of a pain. All of the ring terminals were crimp style but the bullet connectors are solder only. That task turned out to be somewhat more difficult than if I had pre installed all of them while on the work bench. In the end I persevered which is what mattered most! I'm not thrilled with how the dropping resistor for the coil looks so I might rotate the resistor in it's housing 90 degrees so it doesn't stick down so far. The dome light wire is also in place and ready to go. I'm not happy with the nylon washers I made for the cable and switch nuts so I'll have to do something about that and I still need to polish each of the nuts but that's for another day. Tomorrow I want to try and test as much of the wiring as I can to make sure I've connected everything to the proper spot and ensure the connections are good. Brad 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2021 Now that the dash work is mostly complete the next thing will be prepping the engine for it's first start and hopefully that will happen sometime yet this year. So...at this point it's time for me to start planning the front sheet metal installation along with the running boards and doors. All of this brings up a few questions that I have as to the best order of execution 1) What is the best way to install the front sheet metal? One piece at a time on the truck or assemble the pieces as a separate assembly and then install the completed assembly on the truck? Based on my limited work area assembling the pieces as a separate unit that could be a challenge but if necessary I can work something out. 2) Should or could the running boards be installed before the bed and rear fenders are installed? 3) Is it better to assemble the doors on the work bench or to hang the door shells and then start assembling the innards? 4) Should the doors be installed before the front sheet metal or vise versa? Thanks! Brad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted November 27, 2021 Report Share Posted November 27, 2021 I recall seeing factory photos where the doors were on the cab when the cab was lowered over the steering column that was bolted to the frame, then the front sheet metal was lowered into place, but there were 2 or 3 guys jockeying that steel into place...I had to rig up some helpers with 2x4s to set things in place as I was on my own doing this. I recommend hanging the doors bare as they get quite heavy with all the guts installed. Might be easier to mount your front sheet metal loose first, then the doors, so that the doors can be aligned to the cab, then the sheet metal aligned to the doors. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2021 On 11/27/2021 at 6:22 PM, JBNeal said: I recall seeing factory photos where the doors were on the cab when the cab was lowered over the steering column that was bolted to the frame, Now that you mention it I think I've seen similar pictures. I wonder if the doors were completely assembled before they were hung on the cab. I bet they were. On 11/27/2021 at 6:22 PM, JBNeal said: then the front sheet metal was lowered into place, but there were 2 or 3 guys jockeying that steel into place...I had to rig up some helpers with 2x4s to set things in place as I was on my own doing this. Due to the overwhelming amount of crap that I own it would take me weeks of reorganizing to make room to assemble the front sheet metal separately! One of my first tasks when I retire is to start getting rid of all the excess crap...that should keep me occupied for years On 11/27/2021 at 6:22 PM, JBNeal said: I recommend hanging the doors bare as they get quite heavy with all the guts installed. Might be easier to mount your front sheet metal loose first, then the doors, so that the doors can be aligned to the cab, then the sheet metal aligned to the doors. I took a glance at the cab this weekend to see which method would be better and from what I could tell it might be easier to hang the fenders if the doors were not installed. With the doors present it would likely take two people to handle a fender. Without the doors it might be possible for one person and and engine hoist. Definitely something I need to look closer at. No matter what, I like the idea of hanging the doors before they have been assembled. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted November 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2021 The dash wiring is now complete with one glaring exception. The wiper motor which I had cleaned and tested now seems to be acting up. I removed it once this weekend and fixed a connection on the switch and reinstalled it. After that it worked for a few minutes and now won't run at all. So I need to pull it again to see if I can figure out what's wrong. Other than that the rest of the dash is complete and all the dash components function properly although I haven't tested the fuel gauge and probably won't be able to until I fill the tank. I did relocate the ignition resistor and also installed the voltage reducer for the wiper motor. Both are tucked up out of the way on an aluminum bracket. Hopefully the aluminum will help dissipate some of the heat those two devices generate. On a separate issue, has anyone assembled the bed on the truck or is it better to assemble it as a separate entity and then set it on the chassis? I think I already know the answer but figure it can't hurt to ask Brad 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted December 1, 2021 Report Share Posted December 1, 2021 Lookin' good...the more the truck goes together, the bigger the shop seems to get, amiright? ? I have a write-up pending on the two different electric wiper motor setups for the B-series as I've got a few that I've been restoring and ran into a similar switch issue. I had cleaned that switch and done a few hours of cycle testing then put that setup aside for a few weeks, then tried to run it again to compare operation temperatures with another setup that I had completed, and ran into issues with both switches. I haven't worked on them for a few weeks as I've been drafted by several elderly neighbors to clear February winter damaged trees and shrubs that are starting to fall over, reviving a 40yr old International 384 that has been neglected for years, and dealing with the brakes and power steering pump on the QuadCab. That is all coming to a conclusion so I can get back on that in a few days...in the meantime, have ya tried yelling at it? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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