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51 B3B build thread - after all these years


bkahler

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42 minutes ago, CO54 said:

A little Forney set up, it's only a 125, but it'll get the job done with flux-core wire.  Had another set up years ago with the gas, and hated that I couldn't get a good bead if there was breeze with the garage open. 

 

Welding in a breeze can make for interesting welds :)

 

I think my first MIG was either a 125 or 150 which covered just about anything I wanted to do on the vehicles I worked on.

 

 

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A while back I was looking for some shock mounting washers.  I spent several evenings googling and ended up finding several sources.  Part # 1319554.   My original washer is in the middle.  They were used on 70-74 Mopars.

 

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The 1-1/2" wheel adapters also arrived today.  

 

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Now if I just had the axle done so I could try them out :)

 

Brad

 

 

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For those interested in  this sort of thing I've made a sketch of my original axle compared to the 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee Dana 44 axle showing the relationship of the perches from old to new.

 

Brad

 

 

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Edited by bkahler
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I've spent the last hour or so trying to get the actuating arms installed between the wiper motor and the wiper pivots.  The picture below shows my motor and actuating arms just how they were when I pulled them from the truck back in the early mists of time.  I have the motor installed and the arm attached to the wiper motor in the same orientation as the picture.  I've looked closely at the wiper pivot and it appears the inside piece has to fit a certain contour so I've installed it in that orientation although I've tried flipping 180 degrees as well with no luck.  

 

The arm sits cockeyed on the two shafts.  It's almost as if the actuating arm needs to be twisted slightly to bring the bores of the actuating arm in alignment with the pins.  The pins are not in the same plane which is the problem.  

 

Anyone else face this dilemma when reinstalling their wiper assemblies?

 

Thanks,

 

Brad

 

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Between doctor visits and various other activities I didn't get a lot of time today to work on the truck as much as I would have liked but I'll take what I can get.

 

Other than reworking the pedal pushrod for the brake MC that project is pretty much done.  Now I can start running the various brake lines.  I still need to figure out where I want to mount the proportioning valve. It's probably going to end up somewhere back where the original Tee was located on the frame rail.  

 

For the past week or so I've been trying to get the rear axle bearings removed from the housing which turned into more of a chore than it should have.  I didn't realize the axle seals had a flange on them so when I was trying to use a pry bar style seal puller it was just fighting itself.  After watching a few youtube videos I finally realized how to remove the seals and I had them both out in about 3 minutes!

 

The bearings were a different story.  The first video I ran across showed a guy using a 3-jaw puller with a slide hammer.  That method didn't work, all it did was pull the rollers out of the shell.  So, back to youtube and found a video showing a different style of bearing puller.  Ordered a Harbor Freight puller set from Amazon cheaper than I could buy it from the local Harbor Freight.  Go figure.....

 

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The puller arrived today and I tried it on the busted bearing first with no success so I switched to the other bearing and it pulled right out.  After thinking about the situation for a little bit I tried a slightly different approach with the busted bearing and it pulled right out as well.  Now it's time to get bearings and seals on order.

 

I also removed the pinion nut and pinion yoke so I can replace the pinion seal.  Unfortunately the pinion yoke has a nice groove in it from the seal so I'm going to have to find a Speedi-Sleeve for it.  In the mean time I dropped the yoke and nut into a tub of Evapo-rust to hopefully turn them into rust free pieces of metal :)

 

Brad

 

Edited by bkahler
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17 hours ago, bkahler said:

Between doctor visits and various other activities I didn't get a lot of time today to work on the truck as much as I would have liked but I'll take what I can get.

 

Other than reworking the pedal pushrod for the brake MC that project is pretty much done.  Now I can start running the various brake lines.  I still need to figure out where I want to mount the proportioning valve. It's probably going to end up somewhere back where the original Tee was located on the frame rail.  

 

For the past week or so I've been trying to get the rear axle bearings removed from the housing which turned into more of a chore than it should have.  I didn't realize the axle seals had a flange on them so when I was trying to use a pry bar style seal puller it was just fighting itself.  After watching a few youtube videos I finally realized how to remove the seals and I had them both out in about 3 minutes!

 

The bearings were a different story.  The first video I ran across showed a guy using a 3-jaw puller with a slide hammer.  That method didn't work, all it did was pull the rollers out of the shell.  So, back to youtube and found a video showing a different style of bearing puller.  Ordered a Harbor Freight puller set from Amazon cheaper than I could buy it from the local Harbor Freight.  Go figure.....

 

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The puller arrived today and I tried it on the busted bearing first with no success so I switched to the other bearing and it pulled right how.  After thinking about the situation for a little bit I tried a slightly different approach with the busted bearing and it pulled right out as well.  Now it's time to get bearings and seals on order.

 

I also removed the pinion nut and pinion yoke so I can replace the pinion seal.  Unfortunately the pinion yoke has a nice groove in it from the seal so I'm going to have to find a Speedi-Sleeve for it.  In the mean time I dropped the yoke and nut into a tub of Evapo-rust to hopefully turn them into rust free pieces of metal :)

 

Brad

 

Speaking of speedi sleeve, I found another brand that seems to be an equivalent for about half the price.

 

I found the correct Speedi part number on Rock Auto for my crankshaft pulley hub.  Then used that for a Google search and found one on the bay.  Brand is Sturdi.  Time will tell if it wears like the real thing, but it fits and looks great.  $19.35 w/tax/shipping.  I don't know if they offer a wide range of sizes, but they do have the speedi sleeve PN in the listing.  So you don't have to guess at the size once you find that PN.

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49 minutes ago, kencombs said:

Speaking of speedi sleeve, I found another brand that seems to be an equivalent for about half the price.

 

I found the correct Speedi part number on Rock Auto for my crankshaft pulley hub.  Then used that for a Google search and found one on the bay.  Brand is Sturdi.  Time will tell if it wears like the real thing, but it fits and looks great.  $19.35 w/tax/shipping.  I don't know if they offer a wide range of sizes, but they do have the speedi sleeve PN in the listing.  So you don't have to guess at the size once you find that PN.

 

I think the one I ended up ordering was called a Redi-Sleeve, cost was about $28.  I've not heard of Sturdi brand before.  I'm still considering whether to put sleeves on the axles themselves so if I do I'll look into the Sturdi brand.  

 

To install on the axles I'm going to need the right size tube long enough to reach.  That will likely be the deciding factor on whether to try and replace them.

 

Thanks!

 

Brad  

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Well.....never a dull moment ?

 

I finally took a closer look at the axles and realized they are not what I would call perfect specimens.  In fact I think they are marginal enough that they should probably be replaced.  Not exactly what I had hoped for when I bought the axle assembly but it's a little late to turn back now :)

 

If I was using the original bearings and seals I might have considered running these axles for a while but with new bearings and seals going in I don't think I have a whole lot of choice in the matter.  I can buy a new pair of axles from a company called Motive Gear for around $200 delivered.  At the moment this is probably the route I'm going to take.

 

Brad

 

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I've finally got all of the bits and pieces together or arriving shortly to assemble the Cherokee axle.  Since it's somewhat of an odd ball aluminum housing Dana 44 I've had to send a few pieces back.  The axles arrive tomorrow and I'm really hoping they are the right ones.  Their listed dimensions match my original axles so maybe I'll get lucky!

 

So now it's down to painting the axle housing.  I spent this afternoon moving the original axle off my Truckster and it's now sitting on a trailer.  I'm not really sure what to do with it.  I suppose I can list it in the classifieds, maybe someone can use it.

 

While shuffling things around I made a quick and dirty A-frame stand to suspend the axle housing in the air so I can paint it.  It's not the prettiest thing I've thrown together but it was 25 degrees out while I was building it so I don't feel to bad :)

 

With luck I'll have the housing at least primered this weekend with final coat to follow later in the week.

 

Brad

 

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Based on the pictures of the axles when ordered the wheel studs and c-clips were included in the order.  Based on the fact that I have received the axles and there are NO wheel studs or c-clips I'd have to say their picture is in error :(

 

Wheel studs are now on order as are replacement c-clips although one c-clip is back ordered.  Some days you just can't win.

 

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You should have a heart to heart talk with the seller of the axles minus the missing studs and C clips...

If they were shown in the ad picture they owe you those parts.

Bait and switch BS.

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Well......I need to learn to get my facts straight before I open my mouth.

 

I went to the Motive Gear website to get their contact info and took a closer look at their listings.  It turns out they don't show the c-clip or studs.  So I went and checked out all of the other sites I had been checking out when I was looking for axles and they ALL show c-clips and studs with their axles.  So I'm the guilty party for not paying attention to the listings.  The good news is even after buying new wheel studs and c-clips their price was still considerably cheaper than everyone else.  So I really have nothing to complain about other than my own failings! :)

 

Brad

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Finally had a decent enough day that I could apply the first coat of paint to the Cherokee axle.  This was a coat of POR-15.  I'm hoping to get the finish coat done sometime this week but rain is forecast for the whole week so who knows.  I'll be using Bill Hirsch's Chassis black spray paint for the finish coat.  

 

Oh yeah, I also painted the Rustyhope caliper brackets with POR-15 as well. They will get the same Chassis black paint as well.

 

Brad

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I got the final color coat on the axle housing yesterday and today I rolled it under the truck.  With luck tomorrow I'll get it fastened to the leaf springs.  After that it'll be new axle bearings and seals, pinion seal and yoke and then the brakes.

 

I'm really hoping I can have it setting on it's rear wheels by the end of the weekend :)

 

Brad

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......continuation of the Cherokee rear axle install.

 

Axle bearings and seals are installed along with the pinion seal, yoke Speedi-sleeve and the yoke itself.  Getting the nut torqued the last little bit took a 4 foot cheater pipe on the end of my breaker bar!  Instead of lining my punch marks up exactly even I over torqued the nut slightly.  I had run across several threads during my searches were it was recommended to move past the marks slightly since this was a retorque.  It took about 6 tries to move the punch mark a fraction of a turn.  It was TIGHT and I didn't want to over torque.

 

All that remains for the axle install is to mount the brake backing plates, grease the wheel bearings, install the axles and c-clips and put the rear diff cover on.  Oh yeah, and fill the diff with gear oil.

 

Who knows, maybe this weekend it will be sitting on the rear wheels :)

 

Brad

 

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Got a little more done on the Cherokee axle.  After greasing the new axle bearings and seals I slide the passenger side into place and it was to long.  So, I tried it on the drivers side and it fit perfect :)

 

Both axles are in place but I still haven't installed the c-clips although I will likely do so tomorrow.  I realized while playing around with the calipers and brake pads that I can't install them until the c-clips are in place.  

 

I tried test fitting the calipers and am stumped as to how to get the calipers and pads into place.  There doesn't seem to be any way to get them to fit.  I know Eric worked at a jeep dealer at one time so maybe he'll chime in and tell me what I'm doing wrong!

 

I also installed the wheel adapters and was a little surprised that the lug nuts for the adapters are longer than the wheel studs i.e. the studs don't protrude through the nuts..  These adapters were sold specifically for the 97 Jeep Cherokee so I assume it's ok as is.  I will likely try calling the manufacturer just to be sure what I'm seeing is ok and also to find out what torque I should apply to the wheel nuts.

 

Edit:  Just called Wheel Adapters USA and they say it's normal for the studs to not protrude through the nuts and I should use 85 f5/lb torque.

 

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Edited by bkahler
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Buy longer studs for the axles while still easy to remove the parts needed to change them out,

Better safe than S- - - - - !

 

DJ

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um...I don't care what they say, bolts that short are NOT a good idea.  At the end of the bolt with 85ft/lbs of torque you can literately shear threads.  Bolts should NEVER be below the nut.  Flush (to me is dicey), but acceptable.  Below....NO NO NO!  How much thread engagement do you have?

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My worthless opinion, pictures can be deceiving. Imagine if you had chrome acorn nuts for your mag wheels, threads are not going to protrude out the end.

You could put a cap on yours and have acorn nuts .... imhwo, what I see is not really uncommon and has been done for years.

 

With that said, Looks like in the photo there is only a few threads engaging the nut. Maybe that is because of the magic of photography? 

We can not see how deep/wide the existing nuts are, possible there is plenty of contact surface, all we see is the threads left over.

Just use common sense, would be real easy to change them now then fix broken pieces later.

 

Looks awesome!

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Taking a closer look at the pics, the axle studs appear to thread into the adapter nuts enough so that the nut thread engagement approximates the stud cross-section...the nuts appear to be longer than required for ease of installation into a cavity.  Call it good and move forward to figuring out what's the deal with the axle shaft length discrepancy cuz that needs to be solved...

 

As for the brakes, try putting the pads onto the bracket first.  Retract the caliper piston fully with a C-clamp or the like, and the caliper should be able to be located onto the bracket appropriately.  Ya ought to apply some Sil-Glyde to appropriate areas to keep brake parts properly lubricated :cool:

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