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Replacing upper control arm outer bushing


Uncle-Pekka

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...can it be done without removing the upper control arm (and the entire steering knuckle support assembly!)?

 

What about the spring? - Does it need any further support/compression but the car resting on lower control arm (on a jack)?

 

What I am asking; Is it a)possible, b)safe, just to remove the upper arm outer pin, tilting the steering knuckle support outwards and pull the bushing off, install new bushing and dust seals and finally the pin again? - all of it done while the car is supported on a jack under the lower control arm spring seat.

(the below pic. is not dodge, but close enough... ignore the part numbers)

0689ae746d61d44237505f87d5ca98da.jpg

Edited by Uncle-Pekka
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It sure is...first loosen the lug nuts a bit

Then just jack up under the lower control arm with a full sized floor jack..one that does not leak down... remove the tire

Have a stand under the frame horn area for safety if the jack were to fail...

Remove the outer upper pin

Pull the steering knuckle out just enough to be able to remove the threaded in bushing...don't let the knuckle and drum pull on the brake hose....Oh and remove the shock at one end or altogether.

Reverse order to re-assemble.

 

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Thanks for the answer - and the safety points.

 

Further; Is there any way to (even roughly) adjust the camber angle without special tools? -after having replaced the eccentric bushing.

Any practical tips for home garage to adjust the front wheel angles?

Edited by Uncle-Pekka
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Before removing the Upper Outer Bush clean the whole area of grease etc then use a centre punch to mark the adjacent spots on the bush, ideally on the "hex" area of the bush and on the upper A arm areas also on the spindle before undoing the lock bolt......... then when the bush is removed clean it thoroughly and inspect both the old and new bush and sit them together so that they are in the same "plane" and mark the new bush in the same spot on its "hex" with the centre punch.....also measure and note as accurately as possible the distance between the ends of the bush and the side of the upper A arm ........the bush itself should sit in the same spot in the spindle hole and then its just a matter of lining up the centre punch marks and ensuring that the bush & spindle assembly sits on the upper pin in the same place, then tighten up the lock bolt......and assemble the rest........hopefully this will reduce the need of a new wheel alignment........andyd 

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Thank you Andy for the practical tip.

Funny, but I only read this after having done one side already during the day.

However, I ended up doing exactly the way you recommended.

When I looked at the new parts, I figured the position of the eccetric bushing must be set the same as has worked for me for the past years,

thus I made a mark by punch nail before taking the bushing apart. When I had the new & old cleaned, side by side on the board, I made the mark on the same/corresponding position on the new bushing, etc.

 

In the end of the day, unfortunately, I came to doubt, was my effort any good...

See, I did not find any play or wear in the old bushing!

The "DNV" inspector told me he found play in the upper control  arm bushing and wrote a recommendation to replace them.

After taking the parts apart, cleaning and measuring - more so by re-assembling and seeing the structure all through - I cannot understand how this bushing could wear enough to produce any significant play on the suspension movements...

 

 

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I think the problem you have is the same that we have here.........the bush and pin have more tolerance built in than the current inspectors are used to due to there having to be sufficent space to allow grease to travel along the threads........I've found that the pins wear more than the bushes but having said that I suppose there would be some wear but have you taken a new pin & bush to the inspector to let him see what the original spec'd parts are like.....might give you some leeway then.........andyd 

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Thanks Andy,  - That is a good idea - I certainly will take the parts with me to inspection, just for sure.

 

Jack, Yes, I was talking/doing the outer bushing. #3062 in the pic. is /are the inner link bushings.

 

Cheers,

Pekka

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I wish I would knew this ^ when the DNV inspector complained about the play...

 

As said, I noticed the old bushing appeared to be as good as the new one only when I could compare them side by side on my desk.

Further, when having the parts apart, I also begun to think there is no way that structure could wear loose considering the low miles we've put on the clock.

 

Thank you James for the written "manufacturer's testimonial".

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I also have an issue with the passenger side upper control arm bushing .My problem is that I have a hard time getting grease to go in I changed fittings same problem.  Someone told me to take the fitting out and put in transmission fluid to try and clean out the old grease let it sit  and then blow it out with compressed air then repeat until the grease goes in .

Will this work?

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Firstly I'd remove the grease nipple and give it a clean , then try to grease the pin & bush with a jack under the lower A arm and the arm jacked up so that its taking some weight..........ideally greasing the pin/bush when its at the "road height" should sit the thread in the pin/bush enough so that grease will flow thru.........when you removed the grease nipple did you try and poke a thin piece of wire in the pin to see if the grease has gone hard.........maybe even try a gentle application of an LPG  or similar gas torch into the hole to try and melt the hardened grease.........maybe heat the thin piece of wire and pretend its the pins enema.........lol..............ain't cars fun............andyd   

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Thanks Andy I will Try all those things and let you know. well I did as you instructed when i took the pressure of with the jack lifting the lower control arm  I did get grease in it was coming out around the cup on both sides .And yes they are loads of fun ,thanks to the people of  this forum I am able to do some of the work myself  

 

Thanks again 

Edited by Cannuck
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