Jump to content

Need a carburetor


JamesF
Go to solution Solved by Sniper,

Recommended Posts

On 1/1/2020 at 9:44 PM, 1951fargo said:

I would like to install one of these also.

 

When you change to the carter YF style carb what happens to the vacuum advance? Can it be removed?

 

my carter ball and ball has a vacuum line below the carb running to the distributor 

 

thanks 

Sorry for the late response if the question was for me. Either way I can answer. There's a port on the base of the yf I hooked my VA to. I ran rubber line to it.

An update on my yf, the accelerator pump stopped working but I believe it was my fault. I put the new carburetor on before realizing my fuel tank was full of rust. When I took the top off the yf, there was a little rust in the bottom of the bowl that got by the filter. Not much. I cleaned the carburetor out and it's working fine again. I have since replaced my tank.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...
On 10/7/2019 at 2:33 AM, Bbdakota said:

I just installed the same carburetor on my 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe...how did you get it to idle down? I have a low pressure electric fuel pump on it so I’m thinking I might need a regulator? I have it running but I’m at a loss when I put it under a load it just coughs and sputters then dies...3 times I’ve had to push the car 10 feet back into my driveway ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I got my 51 the tune was all messed up.  The PO's mechanic had it idling at about 900 rpm.  Way too high and as I lowered the idle speed the car wouldn't run right and did similar to what you are seeing.  So I went thru the entire setup.  adjusted the timing, way off, the dwell, way off, the idle mixture, way off and the idle speed.  They are all interrelated to one extent or another so you need to go back and forth between them to get everything in the right place.  I also rebuilt the carb around that time, but I cannot recall if I did it because it was an issue or simply did it based on the kwality of the work which had gone before me. 

 

A brief write up of the tune up I did on my site

 

http://www.yourolddad.com/tune-up

 

Edited by Sniper
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, BobsPlymouth said:

I just installed the same carburetor on my 1950 Plymouth Special Deluxe...how did you get it to idle down? I have a low pressure electric fuel pump on it so I’m thinking I might need a regulator? I have it running but I’m at a loss when I put it under a load it just coughs and sputters then dies...3 times I’ve had to push the car 10 feet back into my driveway ?

I'd suspect a vaccum leak based on your description of symptoms but it also could be other things. Could be a intake manifold gasket if it's a vacuum leak, like sniper stated, could be the tune.... If your fuel pump was putting out enough pressure to leak past the needle and seat, it would flood out and not idle so I doubt that's your problem. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Sniper said:

When I got my 51 the tune was all messed up.  The PO's mechanic had it idling at about 900 rpm.  Way too high and as I lowered the idle speed the car wouldn't run right and did similar to what you are seeing.  So I went thru the entire setup.  adjusted the timing, way off, the dwell, way off, the idle mixture, way off and the idle speed.  They are all interrelated to one extent or another so you need to go back and forth between them to get everything in the right place.  I also rebuilt the carb around that time, but I cannot recall if I did it because it was an issue or simply did it based on the kwality of the work which had gone before me. 

 

A brief write up of the tune up I did on my site

 

http://www.yourolddad.com/tune-up

 

dont forget in line fuel filter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, michaelmarks697@yahoo.com said:

dont forget in line fuel filter

Don't have one.  All I have is the in tank original filter.  My son and I pulled the sending unit last week end to verify operation and it is still the original one, cork float and all.  Tank is original too and very clean inside.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/3/2021 at 12:39 PM, Sniper said:

When I got my 51 the tune was all messed up.  The PO's mechanic had it idling at about 900 rpm.  Way too high and as I lowered the idle speed the car wouldn't run right and did similar to what you are seeing.  So I went thru the entire setup.  adjusted the timing, way off, the dwell, way off, the idle mixture, way off and the idle speed.  They are all interrelated to one extent or another so you need to go back and forth between them to get everything in the right place.  I also rebuilt the carb around that time, but I cannot recall if I did it because it was an issue or simply did it based on the kwality of the work which had gone before me. 

 

A brief write up of the tune up I did on my site

 

http://www.yourolddad.com/tune-up

 

Nice work on the tutorial, and I like my idle rpm around 600 as well

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...
On 10/10/2019 at 3:32 PM, Sniper said:

Nice thing about the 1904 is that it uses regular Holley jets so you can tune it.

Is the 1904 a suitable replacement for thr b&b? I'm looking for 2 matching and having a hell of a time...when I searched 1904 I found s couple repops.... any thoughts?

Screenshot_20210826-070411_eBay.jpg

Screenshot_20210826-070207_Chrome.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They will probably work. But it looks as if the base if oriented differently from the carter's as to how the throttle align.  This may cause you some difficulty adapting pedal linkages and fuel lines..  When running duals you need to consider that each carburetor will now be flowing half the air as in a single set up.  So less venturi effect, less fuel pulled through each main jet.  

 

In theory you might think you need leaner mains as there are now two, but in reality, you may need richer jets to get the same fuel to air ratio as the flow through a single carb supplies.

 

You might want to look at Daytona Carbs.  I believe they make a similar carb but with main jets you can adjust externally.  And with either set up you want to avoid those Mr. Gasket 4 inch paper element ait filters that people love to run on their flathead ford's.  They do not provide sufficient air flow for your needs.  And don't forget you are probably going to want some 3/4  or 1 inch thick phenolic spacers and a couple home fabricated sheet metal heat shields under the float bowls.   SHOWN BELOW IS A CURRENT SPACER GASKET HEAT SHIELD that should work to good advantages as a spacer and shield.

 

These carbs are very similar to what was used on most slant sixes.  So you might want to take a look at the slant six forum and see if there is discussion on their use in those installations.

 

https://scoutparts.com/1BBL_Carburetor_Base_Gasket_With_Heat_Shield_Isolator_860449R1_Scout_80_Scout_800/p13375?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiqHgsoHP8gIVDpfICh0RDgRaEAQYBiABEgIfyvD_BwE

s-l500.jpg

13375_241306.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use