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I have buried in my stash a NOS one and it's silvered.

B3 B4 Dodge  Park lamp Housing refectror NOS (1).JPG

B3 B4 Dodge  Park lamp Housing refectror NOS (2).JPG

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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I painted them white in both my trucks too.

Some day I'll install the NOS ones. See above pics of NOS Plated....

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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  • 2 weeks later...

My markers were in rough shape as you can tell from the pitting. I don't think that silver or white makes too much difference so I went with metallic  Rustoleum. I'm going to use the marker lights as turn signals too so I replaced the original 1156 sockets with 1157's which can accommodate two filament type bulbs. I got the 1157s (socket, wiring, and bulb included) from DCM. The only problem with the replacement sockets was that I wasn't able to be secure them tightly enough to the reflectors at first. Looseness caused the sockets to twist when removing or replacing a bulb. To fix that, I wrapped a turn or two of safety wire around the back of the socket to snug it down good and tight to the back of the reflector. Problem solved.

 

20191011_143644_resized.jpg.88abba364be2043e6cc0ef59a273bc14.jpg 20191011_143810_resized.jpg.40c7d5685d532ce505df56f32ea27548.jpg

Edited by Jocko_51_B3B
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I've had similar issues with sockets on other lights and I ended up applying a bead of clear silicon caulk to seal the socket to the fixture and hold it in place...I made the bead big enough that if I needed to service the light and apply a new bead, I would have enough excess to grab hold of and peel off :cool:

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I have also bought the sockets for my marker lights from DCM.  They are 2 strand wires instead of like the 1 that is original.  My turn signal lights are mounted to the tops of my fenders, so is that where I get the other lead from for the 2 strand replacement sockets?  I bought new replacement lenses and gaskets and want to sort of clean up the front end a bit.  I had also asked previously about the new light switch I bought from DCM as well.  I bought the 12 volt switch since I just converted to 12 volt.  I was wanting to know what the different letters stood for on the original switch from the wiring diagram.  (B/D/R/H/A)  New switch has it spelled out for me.  (batt./tailites/stop/access./park) There is an extra unmarked screw which I figure is for a ground? 

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I haven't wired up my headlight switch yet, but if my B3B had turn signal lights on top of my fenders (it doesn't) AND the two wire marker light sockets, I would probably wire both sets of turn signal lights in parallel and use 'em both. 

Edited by Jocko_51_B3B
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On 10/11/2019 at 3:33 PM, JBNeal said:

I've had similar issues with sockets on other lights and I ended up applying a bead of clear silicon caulk to seal the socket to the fixture and hold it in place...I made the bead big enough that if I needed to service the light and apply a new bead, I would have enough excess to grab hold of and peel off :cool:

 Silicone is bad for metal contact....I never use it around metal.

AS for the color to paint, WHITE actually is the better choice over silver/metallic.  Many years of playing lighting engineer taught me this.

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Acedic acid cure silicone will cause rusting of metals.

Neutral cure type won't.

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4 hours ago, JBNeal said:

20 years later, and that silicon is still in place, nothing has rusted out, nor struck by lightning, nor attacked by bees, nor stampeded by unicorns... :rolleyes:

 

then you used the 50/50 chance right stuff.  vs. those that don't and it eats the metal.  Safe answer is to never use it.

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