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S10 Frame Swap


MarkAubuchon

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  • 3 weeks later...

Update,  had the rear spring bushings replaced, began rebuilding front end.  Believed I found one of the reason the front end had so many shims on the drivers side upper a arm.  Found the lower drivers side a frame bolt holes thru the frame are elongated and the bolts show wear as well.   Ordered a new bolt kit, once I get them I'll take them to a machine show and have a spacer made, size of big washer with exact hole for the bolt.  Planning on welding to frame.  Any other ideas would be appreciated 

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I've made a few big, thick washers out of plate steel by using a hole saw to make the outer circumference and then drilling the existing centering hole to size after.

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10 hours ago, MarkAubuchon said:

that's what I was thinking   did you weld them in place

Yes, once you determine exactly where the original hole was supposed to be..  Often you can weld on both sides and fill in some of the slot that was worn into it and dress the weld down

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Just curious here and new, i see allot of s10 frame swaps but part if me is wondering why not use the original frame and box it for strength, then adapt more modern steering and suspension to that?

I'm guessing more time and money?

But would the finished product have benefits to offset that?

Are there any examples of something like this?

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14 minutes ago, B3BNMissouri said:

Just curious here and new, i see allot of s10 frame swaps but part if me is wondering why not use the original frame and box it for strength, then adapt more modern steering and suspension to that?

I'm guessing more time and money?

But would the finished product have benefits to offset that?

Are there any examples of something like this?

it probably would boil down to the fact that this is the manner they do it in magazines 

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One reason is there is a  bolt In kit to do the s10 swap. 
early s-10 frames left a lot to be desired in weld quality, had a 4wd that broke a front diff housing. What happened was control arm brackets were pulling away from frame. 

 

personally if i was doing a swap, my preference would be a dakota chassis,to keep it all mopar  
 

do like how this is going though. 
 

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I boxed the frame and added a M II style front suspension, front mounted power R & P disc brakes, coil over shocks.  Doing it this way, all the sheet metal bolts right back on, stock wheel track width can be maintained and I can set the ride height where I want it.  Maybe it's more a matter of where you want or are comfortable doing your fabrication.  Most of these frame swaps are also going to have some sort of powertrain swap involved as well.  I can't imagine too many of these S10 swaps will have the factory flathead and trans going back in and if you want Mopar powertrain, you probably won't find a lot of aftermarket support for using it in a S10 chassis.

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Dave72dt, sounds great. Would like to see pics of finished product and would you have a feel for how your direction would compare price wise to the s10 bolt on route?

Im a new owner of a original 51 b3b with extra parts, (engine and 2 transmisions), trying to decide where i should go from here. Hope to have a driveable dependable truck with a decent resale if i choose to sell at some point.

Screenshot_20191205-220525_Gallery.jpg

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my decision had a lot to do with bolt on versus fabrication.  If you use the stock frame you have quite a few modification (cutting, welding and fitting) to make it work and look correct, Dakota frame, probably the same (Im not a good welder at all) the s10,  strip the frame and then rebuild with the brackets Im using a 360 and transmission, length is ok, width you install a wider rear end, front end, different a arms or spacers. when you order the kit you tell what motor and transmission combo and they send the mounts.  Original Body, trim, bed, motor and transmission all MOPAR.  What I hadn't mentioned is that the truck was set to be put back all original with a few modifications, flat head, dual carbs and exhaust, T5, disc brake conversion, 8 3/4  the intent was to pull my vintage camper.  After my recent camping trip pulling the camper with my F150, I realized the Dodge could pull it, but it would be a long day.  Keep you posted

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I guess I'm taken back by Mr. Adams comments. As long time member of this forum he should know and I would hope appreciate my artistic and imagination on builds and preservations of the Plymouth Brand.   To my Knowledge I am the first and only "restorer" that has entered a "modified" Plymouth at a National POC meet to place not only second, then with additional upgrades come back and place first in the original class, after the driving the car coast to coast. OBTW I was recognized at the WPC for P15 Vann award. I'm pretty confident my paint by numbers truck will come out OK.  I ll stick with painting by numbers.

 

 

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1 hour ago, MarkAubuchon said:

I guess I'm taken back by Mr. Adams comments. As long time member of this forum he should know and I would hope appreciate my artistic and imagination on builds and preservations of the Plymouth Brand.   To my Knowledge I am the first and only "restorer" that has entered a "modified" Plymouth at a National POC meet to place not only second, then with additional upgrades come back and place first in the original class, after the driving the car coast to coast. OBTW I was recognized at the WPC for P15 Vann award. I'm pretty confident my paint by numbers truck will come out OK.  I ll stick with painting by numbers.

 

 

that makes two of us.....I was taken back by the very dyed in the wool mopar fan you are taking this route....guess we all get surprised at times....I did credit you for the WHY of your approach....few resources at hand per  your own admission.

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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  • 5 weeks later...

Update,  Welded in the spacers on the frame to take out the slop on the A Arms, also bought new nuts and bolts, tight as a tick.  Ended up replacing all of the bushings, upper and lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rods and center link.  There was a reason the truck was headed to the junk yard, everything was worn out.  Calipers and rotors also installed the 1 1/2 inch billit spacers  that picks up 3 inches on the front width and then 5 inches on the rear.  Next job is replacing the rear seals on the rear end and then install.  Ordered the under floor brake/MC assembly, once that's installed I can run the brake lines.  Planning on a trial assembly of the cab and front end while I wait on the engine rebuild. 

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Hi Mark

 

I am following along on this build...getting this thing to go down the road and not break the bank is key for me as well...I as well always look at it when I go to sell it who much of a loss will I take...I love your set up so far...

 

Cant wait to see how it all turns out...

 

Thanks for posting your progress on here...

 

MikeC

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Thanks, I try and not look too close at the cost, more the finished product. My plan is to take in several long travel trailer trips.  In theory it will be a brand new refurbished truck  Just need to find a dealership that will honor the warranty.

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