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Ignition switch


JSabah

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Below is my ignition switch pictures. You will notice the wire is damaged. I don’t see a way to replace just the wire (I have not tried taking it apart yet)....is it possible? I did a quick search on epay and don’t see anything that looks like what I have. If the wire can’t be changed, how much current runs thru this ( thinking I can save it with some heatshrink.... but would rather have the original wire appearance 

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F10F3B21-24D5-4554-9EEB-BB19482EBC0F.jpeg

3FDF2EC8-3211-482E-AF62-5CC9AD8842BA.jpeg

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13 minutes ago, JSabah said:

Forgot to mention, I am converting from 6v to 12v

Thing with 6 volt wiring, it is heavier and required to be so, for 6 volts.

You can re-use all your 6 volt wiring when switching to 12 volt.

 

I still think your wiring you posted can be replaced, but it is heavier then needed for 12 volt as is.

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It is possible to take apart...tough job though...

Ignition Switch 1950 Chrysler Rebuild (3).JPG

Ignition Switch 1950 Chrysler Rebuild (6).JPG

Ignition Switch 1950 Chrysler Rebuild (7).JPG

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Are you trying to preserve the stock look and parts? If not,  cut the metal tube that covers the wire. I cut mine close to the back of the key switch. Remove the metal tube. Splice in a new piece of wire. It travels to the coil, correct?

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I did hat Kieth is talking about when I built the 40 Dodge 45 yrs ago.........its 12 volts due to V8 etc and with a new piece of wire has worked fine since.........andyd

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Yes tying to preserve as much as possible. I suppose I could cut it as you say, splice a new wire on and try to reinstall the sleeve wo that from the engine bay it looks correct - with the casing going through the old style grommet/holder. I’ve done something similar on another cars hood release cables- fixed the outer sheath with epoxy putty in an inconspicuous place. Worked great and still lasting. Just thought if it were easy to change the whole wire, it might be better than hanging a splice (even soldered)

 

Yes i I believe it goes to the coil but that is from memory so I need to double check my pictures and a wiring diagram.

Edited by JSabah
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4 hours ago, Los_Control said:

 

You can re-use all your 6 volt wiring when switching to 12 volt.

I have completely new 6v harnesses as a lot of the old looked old and crispy. I’m sure under some of the old tape, I can find a nice piece. At the time I ordered the wiring there was a chance I was keeping the 6v system and knew I could use it for either. Only issues with the new harnesses - no bullet connectors and not sure yet if I need to change anything else (terminals, bulb holders etc)

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Sellers demand  a premium price for replacement stock type ignition switches for these old Mopars.  Especially the ones that mount to the rear of the coil in the firewall. 

 

A new replacement 6V coil is low priced. However won’t  be able to accommodate the rear coil ignition switch wire mount. I can appreciate your desire to maintain stock.  For others with a different plan, maybe a revived, drivable old Mopar on a budget, this works. 

 

 

 

 

E88ACDB2-EDA3-4BE9-AD38-DFBB746799AB.jpeg

Edited by keithb7
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  • 1 year later...

any tips on how your got the ignition swith out?  my 49 plymouth ignition will not longer take a key, so I am trying to remove it. I took the screw out from the bottom, expecting it to slide out. ive tried twisting one way or the other, but it will not move.  not sure what to do next.

 

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There is a very good chance the insulation is broken mainly outside of the tube and a little just inside, there is no reason why you could not slip over some shrink wrap over the wire and keep using it.

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Here is my ‘38 ignition key tumbler. Push in the little sprung pin seen here. Slide lock out. 
 

 

8B0E300B-0D53-4E02-AC5C-B159848295E3.jpeg

Edited by keithb7
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6 minutes ago, JerseyHarold said:

To my knowledge, the little pin can't be depressed if the switch is in the locked position.  If you don't have a key, the cylinder can be picked so it turns and then you can depress the pin and remove the cylinder from the housing.

that is correct...the inner cylinder must be turned a bit for the detent to align with the pin....

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