Dennis Posted August 20, 2019 Report Share Posted August 20, 2019 We are getting ready to rebuild the front suspension on our '40 Dodge. The car is supported on jack stands and the shocks and outer tie rod ends have been removed. What's the safest way to remove the remaining parts. I'm concerned that the spring may fly out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 20, 2019 Report Share Posted August 20, 2019 Not to nitpick or nag in any manner but if you do not have a repair manual for you car getting one will be an asset for when working the front suspension. Removal of the front spring is explained there also and in a manner so to provide you and the car a level of safety. The tips and tools mentioned in the section will provide you with the specs and methods to go about a complete proper build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted August 20, 2019 Report Share Posted August 20, 2019 Plymouthy is right.the best thing to get is a workshop manual and would also suggest a parts manual.........as for pulling the front end apart use a floor jack or a bottle jack installed under the outer end of the lower A arm, jack the arm so that there is a small amount of load on the jack, then undo the lower outer pin slowly making sure the jack is still supporting the lower arm......once the pin or bolt is undone and clear of the spindle you then gently lower the jack making sure you or parts of you are not in the way of the lower arm, etc..........until the arm is loose..............its not a difficult job BUT you must be aware of what you are doing and take care in my experience the spring is under some tension yet should not "fly" out or be dangerous so long as you use common sense and care............also its better to undo the lower outer pin/bolt than the upper outer in my experience and easier to control the situation........I'd also suggest cleaning as much grease, dirt and crap from the general area so that you have a nice unobstructed view of the area you are working on..........anyway trust this helps..........pics, we love pics.....especially when its a 1940 Dodge..........tho' I am a little bias................lol...........heres my Oz D15........Andy Douglas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Posted August 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2019 Thanks for both replies. I just found the shop manual. I think we have enough information to proceed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Posted November 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2019 We are ready to re-install the suspension with new bushings, etc. We don't have the special tool necessary to support the arms while installing the bushings on the lower control arms. Did that tool also help establishing the 2 5/32" distance between the arm and pivot bar mounting holes? We are thinking of drilling two holes in the arms and making a brace using 3/8" threaded rod. Can someone suggest a better idea? Dennis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40desoto Posted November 23, 2019 Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 On 11/22/2019 at 8:51 AM, Dennis said: We are ready to re-install the suspension with new bushings, etc. We don't have the special tool necessary to support the arms while installing the bushings on the lower control arms. Did that tool also help establishing the 2 5/32" distance between the arm and pivot bar mounting holes? We are thinking of drilling two holes in the arms and making a brace using 3/8" threaded rod. Can someone suggest a better idea? Dennis Not sure if I understand your question, but the last month I have removed and installed my lower and upper control arms over a dozen times to fit an airbag system. I believe you can simply bolt the inner part of the lower control arm to the frame and lift the arm with a jack to the desired position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James_Douglas Posted November 23, 2019 Report Share Posted November 23, 2019 What I think he is talking about is the special tool for keeping the control arms spread while screwing in the big steel bushing on the end. I have the tool and it makes it a lot better job. However... Before I had the tool if memory servers and that was 20 years ago.... I took a scrap plate of steel and I made some straps to hold the arms where they are supposed to be. I then screwed the new self tapping bushings on. It was a PITA as I remember and I had to take it easy. Lots of TAP cutting fluid and going in a 1/4 turn then backing up and then going in a 1/4 turn more then backing up. I finally got them in and with the correct spread. it is IMPORTANT that the bushing do not bind on the shaft. ALSO, in 90% of the cases there is nothing wrong with those bushings. They are SUPPOSED to be loose when they are not supported by the car weight. The thread index is very wide and it "rides" on the bottom when the weight of the car is on it. People Think they are shot when they are not most of the time. Go over and read the Imperial Club website: http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/020/Page19.htm James 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40desoto Posted November 25, 2019 Report Share Posted November 25, 2019 James, that makes sense and thanks for the info. I'm in that same situation as well where Im trying to center the lower upright between the lower control arm fork. What holds the bushing and upright centered while installing the shaft? What I noticed when installing the shaft that once it hits and threads into the further side of the control arm fork, it appears to bind and makes it very hard to twist any further. Is this normal? Ill post some images as soon as I can get them reduced enough to get them loaded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted November 26, 2019 Report Share Posted November 26, 2019 Couple of questions....are you installing the inner lower bushes and pins with the lower arm OFF the car or the lower inner pin bolted to the cross member?............either way the pin has to be held so it doesn't move or rotate......ideally in a large benchvice.........centre the lower arm between the outer threads of the inner pin.........screw the bushes into the arm taking care and noting to screw each bush the SAME amount till it reaches the threads on the pin then using lots of lubricant, ie wd40 etc screw each bush the SAME amount into the lower arm which "should" screw or thread the bush onto the pins on each end.......this is how I have done the lower inner pins & bushes on my car and have taken note of the measurements listed in the workshop manual of the distances between the lower inner arms when done up............I think from memory that I may have had to redo or start the job a couple of times but it is doable without the special tool although it may require some choice words and phrase usage............lol...............andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40desoto Posted November 28, 2019 Report Share Posted November 28, 2019 Thanks for the info Andy, didnt think about installing the pin and bushing with the lower arm off and on a bench. I think Im going to go this route during the final installation. When i took off the old pin and busings I noticed that bushings where tack welded to the upright. Maybe that how they kept it centered on the upright while they installed the pin? Heres a few pics of the temporary installation of mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allbizz49 Posted November 28, 2019 Report Share Posted November 28, 2019 I snagged these pictures of a homemade control arm tool so I could build one myself. Pretty simple and holds the control arm at the correct spacing. I thought I got them from here but maybe not. I don't have the one I made here to take a picture but it's basically the same and works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
homer41 Posted November 28, 2019 Report Share Posted November 28, 2019 WOW! I cannot believe my good fortune in finding this just when I am about to do my front suspension. Thanks so much for posting this. Now to build it. Thanks again. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted November 28, 2019 Report Share Posted November 28, 2019 (edited) 40desoto..........the pics you posted show the lower outer bush & pin......the bush is screwed into the spindle or upright and doesn't have any real effect on the gap between the lower outer A Arm pivots..........you instal the rubber seals against each side of the lower outer bush, taking note to place the rubber seal with the hex molded into it over the hex head on the bush then align the lower bushed spindle/upright in line with the internal threaded ends on the lower outer arm and screw the pin in thru the internal threads and into the bush and out the other side thru the internal thread and it should be right.....these can be a tight fit and some sort of lubricant will help, check your workshop manual for torque specs as these must be TIGHT, I have seen lower spindle holes hogged out when the bush has come loose and allowed the bush & pin assembly to have its way with the spindle.....not pretty nor reuseable either..............you may have to recheck the distance between the lower outer A arm threaded ends but they shouldn't move much if any..........if they have moved you may have to make a "tool" or fixture like what Allbiz49 has done for the upper inners..........40desoto......I also had another look at your pics and it appears that the lower outer bush is NOT installed correctly.the hex thread should be hard against the spindle lower shoulder.........admittedly this is when using the stock cast steel spindle or upright.......does the lowered one you are using have the same "width" as the stock cast steel items as it appears at least in pic # 2 to not be screwed in all the way.....also you do not have any rubber seals installed..............they I suppose are not absolutely critical but I'd use something as a way to stop crap getting into the lower bush/pin assembly.....you can use large O rings if need be..........in general the bush/pin assembly should be centred between the lower outer arm ends..............anyway hope this helps or makes sense........lol.........andyd Edited November 28, 2019 by Andydodge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
40desoto Posted November 28, 2019 Report Share Posted November 28, 2019 Andy, I should of clarified before, these are not fully nor properly installed. I put them them on temporarily in order to install and test clearance on the airbag installation. my apologies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andydodge Posted November 28, 2019 Report Share Posted November 28, 2019 Ah.............lol............all good then............I can waffle on forever sometimes as its so nice to be corresponding with fellow mopar nuts.........its something I have rarely had the opportunity to do over the years here in Oz...........lol.............no worries .......andyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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