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Dan Epp

Can I bolt a 1959 Dodge power flight trans to a 1941 241 flathead engine

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chrysler1941 I burn 91 unleaded

under the engine on your Royal there is a metal shield on the driver side is there also one on the passenger side my car only has one on the driver side 

the reason why I ask is there is a shield that covers the flywheel that is bolted to the driver side shield and a bolt hole on the passenger side of the  flywheel shield but there is nothing to bolt it to what is yours bolted to

i'm wondering if it is missing 

Thanks  

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See the pitman arm peeking out from a black metal panel. 

There is another metal panel on the other side of the engine. 

Chrysler had these panels on some of the cars.  Were they an option? 

Were these more likely to be in the pre-war cars rather than post-war?    

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8 hours ago, DonaldSmith said:

See the pitman arm peeking out from a black metal panel. 

There is another metal panel on the other side of the engine. 

Chrysler had these panels on some of the cars.  Were they an option? 

Were these more likely to be in the pre-war cars rather than post-war?    

My 41 from Arizona had them. Part list call them splash guard. I think they aid engine cooling. 

There's is even another under crank pulley. You can see it connecting the two covers.

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18 hours ago, Dan Epp said:

chrysler1941 I burn 91 unleaded

under the engine on your Royal there is a metal shield on the driver side is there also one on the passenger side my car only has one on the driver side 

the reason why I ask is there is a shield that covers the flywheel that is bolted to the driver side shield and a bolt hole on the passenger side of the  flywheel shield but there is nothing to bolt it to what is yours bolted to

i'm wondering if it is missing 

Thanks  

Can't help you as my flywheel shield is not pressed sheet but huge cast iron cover bolted to flywheel/fluid drive housing

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chrysler1941 sorry I meant crank pulley guard thanks for the photo you and the pitcher answers my question my car is missing the splash guard my frame has threaded hole in the same locations as the driver side guard  i'll have to fabricate one keep the dust and dirt out of the engine bay and help cool the engine   

I found a guy selling a 1949 desosto  fluid drive transmission waiting for more info on it

greg g my 48 Plymouth business coupe in its past life it was a race car back in the day in Thunderbay Ontario Canada      

 

IMG_1961.jpg

Edited by Dan Epp

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5 hours ago, greg g said:

My 46 deluxe business coupe had them.  They are called dust shields in some of the literature I have seen.

You are correct.I think I mixed them with shields under bumper.

Engine Dust Pan                   Group 12-D

 

 

 

Dan Epp

 

Took mine off 2 years ago and haven't put them back on but little shield is bolted to the two shields.

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6 hours ago, Dan Epp said:

do you find the engine runs cooler with the guards off, also your engine looks great did you rebuild it ?

 

I never had heat issues. Removed them during engine restoration and haven't installed them yet.

As I understand shields help with cooling, directing air flow around engine instead of under car.

 

Thank you, yes pulled engine for restoring and fresh paint.

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On 8/18/2019 at 6:21 AM, Dan Epp said:

Hi Andydodge

The push button trans is off a 59 dodge regent 250.6 both engines are Canadian 25 inch blocks 

...not sure if the question was actually answered... but, yes, you can make the swap as a complete unit. ...The back of the blocks are the same as is the crank flange although some cranks can be 6-bolt most are 8-bolt.  Just swap everything from the block/crank back from each engine. 

As to whether or not you will have rear mounts where you need them...?

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I have been researching this issue for over a year. I have a 1954 Chrysler Windsor 6 cylinder Powerflite (PF) in shipment across the USA as I write this. There are issues that have to be addressed. Let me list them in no particular order:

 

1. The six cylinder PF's had several internal part differences than the V8 cars. Mostly dealing with the shift points. The shift points for a flathead six and the V8 are not the same.

2. These transmissions have a CRITICAL weakness in that they are VERY dependent on the linkage. If the linkage is not correct the PF pressures will not be correct and the thing will eat itself. Therefore, one must get ALL the linkage from the pedal to the car to the trans with all the brackets, turnbuckles and the like. This would include the cables for the later ones.

3. You have to remove the existing bell housing cross member. Get the one that came off the donor car with the trans. The only way to get the transmission in and out from under the car is to UNBOLT the new rear cross member. You also have to come up with a fixture to hold the rear of the engine block while taking out or installing a PF Trans.

4. The crankshaft has to have the bolt holes match or your have to machine the crank flange for it.

 

Now the good thing about this trans is that it has a LOT less internal drag that a modern Chevy trans. That is why I am using it in my 5500 pound 1947 Desoto Suburban. I also did not want to spend months playing trial and error with governor weights to match a GM trans to the RPM and Torque curve of the Flathead.  The linkage will be the hardest part on this. Luck for me I got it all, including the steering column with the column shifter and all the associated parts.

 

I will spend the next six months rebuilding it and all the linkage. Some time in late 2020 or early 2021 when I have the engine and everything else ready I will do the change. I also plan on using a Gear Vendors OD.  I will then have 4 forward speeds.

 

I like my fluid drive with a Borg Warner overdrive, but my wife's knee with a clutch and my aging left ankle as asking for a true automatic.

 

In the end I think a PowerFlite is a good option for a flathead. It does however have to be done with a keen eye for detail not only for it to work, but work well.

 

James

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