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Hello everyone, 

I am in the process of getting an old family truck, it needs a good amount of work but I am pretty excited to get going.

Its a 1949 Dodge 1 ton with a dump bed. I was also wondering if anyone could give me a hand with syphering the model information.

Its Canadian made from the Windsor plant, model ID says DE 2  2  6.

Cheers

https://i.imgur.com/zX8HPzK.jpg[/img]

https://i.imgur.com/hhzq6nS.jpg[/img]

https://i.imgur.com/ZXHRdvN.jpg[/img]

https://i.imgur.com/x194ESX.jpg[/img]

https://i.imgur.com/Ka2yL0k.jpg[/img]

https://i.imgur.com/WmpbZlT.jpg[/img]

 

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Congratulations on getting and fixing up your family's truck. It will be worth all the work when you get it running and back on the road.  It looks great . I sure wish I had those grill bars :)

                           John 

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Awesome!  Good luck to you with the fixing/maintenance.  Looks a lot like mine less the 9ft. box.  

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On 6/28/2019 at 1:46 PM, Frank Elder said:

Nice truck, color me green.

Would really like to see the dump mechanisms, etc....I've seen some strange ones.

I am sorry it took so long to get back on this, the truck is currently sitting on a property 2 ferry rides, and about 4 1/2 hours of travel away from me, and im currently getting ready to bring the truck back over to the mainland.

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11 hours ago, Frank Elder said:

Thank you very much, the lift looks well put together not cobbled like some. I wish you luck.

The bed mounts on the sled part are a little rough looking, and I can only find 1 set of the mounts to connect the bed onto the sled. I've currently propped it up with a 2x4.

17 minutes ago, The Oil Soup said:

This should help you decipher the info you have. http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php

Thanks! from what I have found, its a T147 so that's a Canadian made long block 228.

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well, a few weeks back i finally brought the old girl home. Put new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, cleaned up the breaker points and rebuilt the carb and fuel pump. After about 5-8 years the old girl finally came back to life! After that i tested out the brakes only to find they don’t really work😅.

so i guess up next is to pull the master cylinder and see what’s going on there.  

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You will more than likely have to do a 100% new brake job.

Typically required on vehical sitting for years☹

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23 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

You will more than likely have to do a 100% new brake job.

Typically required on vehical sitting for years☹

 

You’re probably right, when i press down on the brake pedal it bottoms out and doesn’t spring back........So yay!!

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I pulled off the front wheels and hubs, everything looked really good and there was still fluid in the lines. next i checked the back bleeders, they were a little plugged up but i cleared them out and had fluid circulating. so i thought what the heck and filled the master cylinder with some new brake fluid and the pedals started working and eventually the brakes were holding well, then brake on the rear driver side drum seized and now that wheel won’t turn. it also looks like there’s a slow leak on that side.

so am i correct that the only way to remove the rear drums is to pull the rear axle itself? does anyone have pictures of how this is done? 

Edited by rjoiner57
missed info

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Remove the nuts and lock washers, then Remove the junk or silicone from the two Empty threaded holes (in between the studs) 😊 then run two 3/8” x 16thread bolts in the threaded holes.....


 

careful not to twist the bolts off in the holes! 

 

Hopefully that helps

Edited by Brent B3B
Photo removed

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That’s a good looking truck! Looking forward to seeing your progress. 
cant wait until i have brakes on all four wheels in my Fargo. 
 

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thanks brent b3b, got the rear drum off (luckily the massive nuts holding the drum were slightly more than fine tight and came off with ease). to my suspicion there was a slow break fluid leak. the boots are in immaculate shape but the pistons definitely could use a good cleaning and im picking up some new cup seals later this afternoon.

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No more brake leaks now and they are holding nicely. Next problem im having is regarding shifting. i can shift into all gears with the engine off, but once i get the engine going and try to shift it just grinds with the clutch pressed all the way down to floor. I took the flywheel cover off and i can see the pressure plate and shift fork moving so im wondering if the clutch is stuck?

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Put the rear axle on jack stands and start it, see what happens...the last time I had a stuck clutch was on my International 584 after it stalled fording a knee-high muddy creek...fixed that by getting out of the field and taking the scenic route back to the house in road gear, which involved a few steep hills...the extra gravity load helped break the clutch disc off of the flywheel and pressure plate and it worked fine afterwards :cool:

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37 minutes ago, JBNeal said:

Put the rear axle on jack stands and start it, see what happens...the last time I had a stuck clutch was on my International 584 after it stalled fording a knee-high muddy creek...fixed that by getting out of the field and taking the scenic route back to the house in road gear, which involved a few steep hills...the extra gravity load helped break the clutch disc off of the flywheel and pressure plate and it worked fine afterwards :cool:

Really common on tractors/farm trucks that aren't used often.  A lot of tractors from Japan have locks that can be used to hold the pedal down when stored. I guess because of rice paddy usage means they get parked with a wet clutch often.

 

Usually you can rock it back and forth with the clutch disengaged and break it loose.  But as a last resort, Push the clutch down and block the pedal.  Remove the lower cover and look at the clutch.  You will probably see a gap on either the flywheel or pressure plate side. Insert a thin tool on the other side and pry the disk away from it. A putty knife or a paint scraper (stiffer version) is what I have used.

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1 hour ago, kencombs said:

Really common on tractors/farm trucks that aren't used often.  A lot of tractors from Japan have locks that can be used to hold the pedal down when stored. I guess because of rice paddy usage means they get parked with a wet clutch often.

 

Usually you can rock it back and forth with the clutch disengaged and break it loose.  But as a last resort, Push the clutch down and block the pedal.  Remove the lower cover and look at the clutch.  You will probably see a gap on either the flywheel or pressure plate side. Insert a thin tool on the other side and pry the disk away from it. A putty knife or a paint scraper (stiffer version) is what I have used.

No offence to jbneal, i like this idea a lot better to try first. My driveway doesn’t have a massive angle to it but the is truck is currently facing down it and honestly scares the crap out of me.

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Yesterday the neighbor said he couldn't move the 4 speed shifter in his 1968 ford 250 truck. It was jambed.

He only runs it once twice a year.

I went over..yep stuck in 4th.

Pushed the ebrake on, held both the clutch and brake pedals down.

Quickly blipped the ignition key a couple times...2nd blip I felt the clutch break loose. The shifter was once again working and the truck started up.

He was so happy.

Made me happy too...he's a great older neighbor. Glad to help him always.

I made his day as he thought the transmission somehow had failed sitting.

I told him start driving it more!

Some clutches aren't this easy to break loose!

Glad your'e clutch broke loose too!

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I've got one that has been sitting since 1988 or longer. It's going to come apart after I get the afflicted vehicle unloaded of spare car parts.

 

(EDIT . . . not a dodge,)

 

Edited by Ulu

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