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Rear lug bolts stripped out


First P15

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Pulling the rear brake drum and hub off my 48 Plymouth coupe today and the passenger side came off as expected. A little patience and time. Dead blow hammer and good puller did the trick. 

Drivers side not so lucky. Apparently the previous owner didn’t realize the bolts are left handed. Two are useable, one is barely serviceable. The other two are completely stripped. 

Heres the options as I see it 

1) drill and retap the holes to 9/16 NC and pull the hub then replace it

2) weld a bolt into the stripped holes and pull the hub and replace 

3) cut the drum to allow putting a nut on the bolt going through the stripped hole then replace 

4) last option is to drill and retap all the bolt holes and use larger bolts

if anyone has input or experience dealing with this issue it will be welcomed. I think the drum has a lot of service life left based on the passenger side drum. Really hate to destroy it if there’s another option 

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measure the hole and get a knurled stud that will press in and cut a set of grooves as it is pressed in.....Dorman has a chart online for the diameter and length of stud, knurl dimension and over all length and now is the time to go all right hand thread if you wish...if you cannot find it online go to the big box store of your choice and ask for the Dorman book.  Buy by dimension.

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See my reply to the "Lug nuts on D14 Dodge" thread...........as Plymouthy has mentioned I'd be replacing the lot with Right Hand threaded studs, drill the 1/2" mopar thread out and press the new probably, Ford studs with a 9/16th knurled section in from the rear............Andy Douglas.  

Edited by Andydodge
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Great ideas about installing the studs. Especially tacking them in place. The biggest problem here is being able to get the hub pulled off first. The two completely stripped out holes are side by side making it impossible to get the puller to pull straight 

Thanks for the input guys 

Edited by First P15
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Could you grind off/drill out the rivets that hold the drum to the hub? Then you could remove the drum and access the back side of the hub to place a temporary nut for removal. Then install studs as recommended above. Now the drum will slide back over the studs like a more modern vehicle.

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SUCCESS!!!

Drilled the stripped hole to 31/64 and tapped it with 9/16 - 18 tapered plug tap. Used the heavy puller and dead blow hammer..... bingo

both drums off time to replace the wheel cylinders, shoes and lines. 

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Edited by First P15
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Do not try to press out the studs without drilling out the studs first!  I had a mechanic (85 yr. old) who said he could do it no problem on his press.  He cracked my drum and destroyed it.  Took me a long time to find a replacement and he cut it for me at no charge to make up for cracking the original one...

Jim T

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2 minutes ago, ebruns1 said:

Do not try to press out the studs without drilling out the studs first!  I had a mechanic (85 yr. old) who said he could do it no problem on his press.  He cracked my drum and destroyed it.  Took me a long time to find a replacement and he cut it for me at no charge to make up for cracking the original one...

Jim T

Good advice. 

The 1/2” threaded holes are way too small to press in the 9/16” studs. The splines are larger than the threaded parts 

the Dorman stud specs should give the correct size to drill for the spline to fit properly 

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10 minutes ago, ebruns1 said:

Do not try to press out the studs without drilling out the studs first!  I had a mechanic (85 yr. old) who said he could do it no problem on his press.  He cracked my drum and destroyed it.  Took me a long time to find a replacement and he cut it for me at no charge to make up for cracking the original one...

Jim T

 

his hub is for a Plymouth, there are  no studs like on a Dodge and yes the Dodge is swaged on these..your tip is accurate for the factory studs of the era

 

as I read  his concern only the thread portion is damaged...a aftermarket stud application will save this drum/hub combo...

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