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1948 Gas Tank Measurements


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I have looked through past posts about fuel tank replacement options and have opted to have a local shop get me a quote for fabricating one for me. I have the old tank for overall dimensions, but unfortunately the entire top is rusted out and gone.  I also have the body off of the frame for taking any reference measurements from the fill hole on the cab. 

 

Therefore, I don’t have any measurements for the location of the filler neck and sender unit.  Looking at pictures of replacements from DCM and Tanks Inc., the filler neck is in the center, but I question if that is accurate enough.  The sender unit site is probably not as critical, but any input would be appreciated. I am hoping someone may have a tank off that may be able to provide me some measurements and/or pictures.

 

I have looked at posts about the earlier tank replacements from Tanks Inc and modifications, but I am also wondering if anyone has experience with the stainless tank replacement from DCM.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Todd

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I have a few tanks laying around.....I'll try to measure one up and get a few pictures.......

 

48D

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48Dodger,

 

That would be greatly appreciated and help a lot. The shop has measurements for the overall dimensions of the tank and a plan for building the tank.  We will place the holes after assembly.

 

Thanks,

 

Todd

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I just happened to have my truck torn apart at the moment so i took some pictures of the gas tank with various dimensions but they are too large to attach to this thread and im not sure how to shrink them down???

 

maybe tim will beat me too it anyway

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I have a 1949 1/2 ton, I assume yours is the same ... if you have a 3/4 ton for example, the wheel base is different and the location of the rear cross member has moved.

From cross member to center of the tank hole is 21 and 3/4"

I think thats what you need, since you are making your own tank and assume mounting bracket, you need to do the math for those.

My original tank though, is 19 & 1/4" from center of spout to edge of tank and start of the original mounting bracket, which mounts on crossmember

 

IMG_20190602_115646331.jpg.32f5bf1e465b13a2d7f270bb4ad9ab07.jpg

IMG_20190602_115716440.jpg

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What I find interesting, hope you can see it in the photo ... The front of the tank is 1" from outside edge of frame, while rear is 3" from outside edge.

This is all factory , I assume there may be a reason for it, I dunno what it is.

 

Curious why you do not want to use the Tanks version already made?

Sure with enough money, can build a nicer version .... I bought the tanks version along with a new sending unit.

Not installed it yet, but it looks like decent quality to me, there is one bracket that needs to be made to mount the rear of the tank but pretty simple to do.

 

 

IMG_20190604_122844949_HDR.jpg

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The differences in the frame measurements is because the frame starts to taper in from the front rear spring hangers forward.  On a longer wheelbase, the point where it starts to taper in may be at a different location than my B3B.  Frame narrows up 10 ".

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I looked at and seriously considered the older style tank from Tanks Inc, but after reading some previous posts regarding modifying the hole in the cab floor and/or the neck of the fuel spout, as well as the rear bracket modification, I continued to look at other options.  I also like stainless tanks. About the same time, talking to a friend who has a fabrication shop, he asked me to drop the tank by so he could take some measurements and get me a price.  He agreed to do it for a reasonable price (in stainless) and was local, so if I do have modifications, it will be easier. I will post when finished.

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11 hours ago, Vet Doc said:

I looked at and seriously considered the older style tank from Tanks Inc, but after reading some previous posts regarding modifying the hole in the cab floor and/or the neck of the fuel spout, as well as the rear bracket modification, I continued to look at other options.  I also like stainless tanks. About the same time, talking to a friend who has a fabrication shop, he asked me to drop the tank by so he could take some measurements and get me a price.  He agreed to do it for a reasonable price (in stainless) and was local, so if I do have modifications, it will be easier. I will post when finished.

Sounds like a good plan ... had a friend that broke down on the road in a older motor home, they charged him $1k to build a aluminum tank.

Was a lot of money, but was a nice tank. And it got him back on the road to get home.

 

When I bought my tank, I was working on a 1949 3/4 ton. With the longer wheel base, that truck already had the factory rear bracket for the gas tank. I assume all the 3/4 tons and up have the bracket. But it is a simple triangle shaped bracket and probably faster to build a new one, then to grind the rivets off the frame to remove a older one.

 

I was told by tanks over the phone, when I ordered mine. Something about the angle of the spout is different, I was going to have to use a hack saw and cut the spout back some, and then would need to use a longer rubber hose then original to connect the filler tube.

Just a couple mods and the tank works for these years also.

Just saying, Tanks never said anything about modifying the floor.

 

Just my humble opinion, I think tanks is a viable option, while a custom stainless steel is a better tank.

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I agree with your assessment.  I expect to get the tank done for $500-600.  I told my wife we weren’t doing this to save money...it’s the pickup that her mother learned to drive with when she was a kid.  So far, that line of reasoning has gotten me a couple of upgrades.

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