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keithb7

New Car Day! 1938 P6 Plymouth Deluxe

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I got fed up with the split bar-type double flare tool again last week. I was attempting to make new brake lines for my ‘38 Plymouth. I finally ordered something different. The Cal-Van in line double flare kit. I ordered it yesterday.  It arrived today via Amazon Prime. Sunday delivery! I’m impressed with both the tool and Amazon. 
 

The tool is quick and effective at easily making factory looking double flares. The little blocks hold the brake line much better than the split-bar tool. Making the job easier and efficient. I should have bought this “in-line” type tool a long time ago. When I started making brake lines. It’s much better.  I shake my head wondering why I cuss’d the old tool so long. 
 

As per pic, old split bar type tool and new in-line type tool seen together here. 

 

 

 

584230D2-7783-4D5D-A87C-D9E43ACB3CDF.jpeg

Edited by keithb7

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in Canada, pinstripes seem to gave ended with the 50 models but continued on USA cars.  3 stripes such as Worden illustrated  

were the norm from 39 to 50 however I cannot speak for USA models. Worden's is a 51.

 

37 and 38 had a single stripe on the wheel centre and another around the rim.    Earlier cars with the artillery wheels had a stripe, or possibly 2 stripes on the rim and some had a sunburst on the spokes.

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The rims on our '48 D24 were originally pinstriped as well, although I don't remember if they were the double or triple stripes, just outboard of the hubcap.  I did not redo them when I stripped and painted the rims for two reasons, I didn't trust my skills to do it at the time, and the '48 Customs came with full size stainless steel wheel covers mounted under the hubcaps that would hide them anyway.  But, if I were to redo the rims for whatever reason, I would make the effort to replicate the pinstripes, because they are indeed cool...and my skills have improved quite a bit.

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19 hours ago, Worden18 said:

Keith, my Meadowbrook rims have pinstripes.  They certainly look original, although I can't prove it.  I have some literature lying around that I need to dig out and look at the sketches.  

5997d271ef160_Penetrol(2).JPG.4f59550eeb8c2c68b81e9585bd649a40.jpeg

 

Pinstripes on the late 30's cars are different than shown in the above picture. I had a '38 Chrysler and they are the two separated pinstripes. My '48 Dodge has the three pinstripes as shown above. Not sure exactly when the change in pinstriping took place.

 

You can just make out the two pinstripes on the wheels in the picture of the '38 Chrysler I have since sold. Easier seen if you enlarge the picture.

 

IMG_0402.JPG.d40e54c51606266e4d4b70ba0ddc6945.JPG

 

Edited by RobertKB

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On 9/27/2019 at 9:47 PM, keithb7 said:

I picked up my fuel tank. Its like new again. The fellow did a fantastic job. All the old rubbery sealer is gone. I ‘ll be putting it back in after I finish buildling and installing the rear chassis harness.  I’m Working on that now. 

 

1E65486A-A963-40B8-9C6E-9FFAC58705F6.jpeg

 

Hi, Where did you sent your tank to restore it ? It's my next next step for my 39'Plymouth :) Thx

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I’m in BC Canada. Sent to “Leakers” in Keremeos, BC. 

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¾ of my brakes have been reassembled. Everything cleaned up. New seals. New lines. 1 more to go. Soon. 
 

Staying with the budget theme, I started to paint my rims. A friend thought POR-15 for my sandblasted rims would be ok. Would work well against any corrosion he said. I painted the inside. 3 applications. Seems like good hearty paint. I won’t use it on the outside though. I’ll prime and spray paint with something else. The POR-15 is thick but will run. I just brushed it on. Every time the can is opened it seems to be thicker the next time I use it. Tonight I added a little lacquer thinner to it. Seemed better.  Good enough for inner rims on this budget revival. Would make great paint for a trunk lining too. I may just do that. 

Should I be priming the inner centre part of the rim? It’ll get a rubber strip around it, then the tube, at time of tire installation. 


 

D74B9F55-781C-411A-8360-23923B5E6DD1.jpeg

Edited by keithb7

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I would prime and paint the inner part of the rim the same as you paint the outside part that shows. If the rims are in good shape and not badly pitted and your tires are marked for tubeless, I would not use tubes. Tubes are a pain in the butt.  I put tubeless on my '38 Chrysler and never had any issues. I have done the same with my '51 Dodge business coupe. 

 

If you do use tubes, make sure you take off all paper labels on them. They labels can eventually wear the tube through and give you a flat. I know from personal experience on my '48 Dodge Club Coupe that still has three tubes. I did not replace the tube that wore through and just reinstalled the tire. No problems at all since.

Edited by RobertKB

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I have a plan for pin stripes on the rims. I have a question. Should the Plymouth writing on the centre cap be painted red? 

 

 

IMG_5802.jpg

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I believe yes but not positive. On my '38 Chrysler that I sold the lettering was black so as I say, not positive. Hopefully someone else chimes in who knows for sure.

 

I'm not a big fan of beauty rings. All they do is scratch the paint and are often noisy when driving as they tend to "work" unless they are perfectly straight. I used to have them on my '48 Dodge D25 club coupe but took them off and sold them when I repainted the car including the rims.

 

IMG_0013.JPG.c351d5fa3039c1ad2e5560b23b95ffd5.JPG

Edited by RobertKB

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2 hours ago, keithb7 said:

New tires and painted rims really took this car right up out of the gutter. The visual improvement is better than I expected. 
 

 

 

 

9EB0563B-AB77-44D7-822A-A6CA3854E300.jpeg

Looking good 👍

Man I love your car 😊

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looks good Keith.  The hub cap pictured should have red lettering.  It is from a 50.    37 38 and low line 39 and 40 used a cap with italic letters and slightly smaller diameter.

 

the cap you have there looks better and if you do not have a full set I can help.

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@dpollo thanks for clarifying the centre caps. I have seen caps with letters in italics.
 

The cap shown in my pic above; 4 of them came with the car. Some spares too. I’ll have a look at them all and see if I have proper ‘38 ones. If not, these ‘50 caps will due for now I think.

 

Next closest steps include: 1 more  brake to reassemble. Plus related  brake flex hose and steel line. Master cyl rebuild. Bleed brakes. Diff pinion seal. Refill diff oil. Hopefully a test drive then. 
 

These smaller project lists help keep me motivated and on track. Versus one massive, complete  list. 

 

Edited by keithb7

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I have a car completely  disassembled but despite moments of despair, it is keeping me on track during this isolation period.

The new door sills are done as are the body mounts and I am getting the suspension  ready to go back on the frame.  I am using eleven inch brakes from a  Chrysler Royal

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13 hours ago, keithb7 said:

@dpollo thanks for clarifying the centre caps. I have seen caps with letters in italics.
 

The cap shown in my pic above; 4 of them came with the car. Some spares too. I’ll have a look at them all and see if I have proper ‘38 ones. If not, these ‘50 caps will due for now I think.

 

Next closest steps include: 1 more  brake to reassemble. Plus related  brake flex hose and steel line. Master cyl rebuild. Bleed brakes. Diff pinion seal. Refill diff oil. Hopefully a test drive then. 
 

These smaller project lists help keep me motivated and on track. Versus one massive, complete  list. 

 

 

Here are pictures of the 37/38 hubcaps.  If you decide to use the ones you have, you could paint the letters black rather than the red, to make them look period correct.

487DB18C-D4AA-465F-A360-A2062DF29948.jpeg

A1E1F91A-289E-4DD3-9A18-B27C0157E243.jpeg

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Thanks for sharing your pics folks. I dug around in the trunk which is full of spare parts. Look what I found....4 of them.  It appears they have been in use for a long time! 

IMG_5818.jpg

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Also, digging around in the trunk I saw the spare tire on a rim.  Without a doubt, the stock pin-striping. Clearly seen here, 2 stripes.

 

 

 

 

IMG_5820.jpg

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1 hour ago, Bobb Horn said:

This is the cap on my 38 when I bought it in 1986.     I painted one just to see what it would look like....

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That is a P15 cap.  The ones on my 41 are similar, but with the italicized Plymouth.

 

C6936E14-5307-411D-B1FA-5548CD5C2CFD.jpeg

Edited by Furylee2

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This may have been my biggest challenge yet. Getting this out. Its tight down there. As you all know, everything is coated in 80 years of old grease and road grime. Plus brake fluid causing everything to rust excessively. Sure going be nice and clean when I’m done. It’ll also be well lubed and tight. 
 

 

 

0F239F72-FE08-4D63-9DC5-A447CA06F13D.jpeg

Edited by keithb7

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There was just one intimidating  steel brake line left to change. The long one from the brake light switch/distribution block, beside the generator to the rear axle flex hose. The ugliest one of them all in this car.

 

The master cylinder is out. Pedal linkage out. There is no better time so...I was surprised to find one small section of the line was jammed in between part of the frame, and a running board support member.  I am doubting anyone at the factory would have allowed this. I’d wager someone did this later. The line was crushed a fair amount. I’m wondering what effect this would have In effecting rear brake performance. Anything?

 

I’ll replace it. Shaping it is going to test my skills I’ll bet. 
 

 

 

DFB56FDC-9D7E-48D0-8046-57AD18806816.jpeg

Edited by keithb7

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21 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

My nemesis. Lol. It will be slain. 

D8249FFA-6C4A-4AA1-B8E3-AA753AD7D8F6.jpeg

Are you using the copper nickle lines? Also one tip I saw recently and plan to try is zip tie the lines together at each bend to keep them aligned. 

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52 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

My nemesis. Lol. It will be slain. 

D8249FFA-6C4A-4AA1-B8E3-AA753AD7D8F6.jpeg

 

You can bend the copper-nickel 3/16" lines with forefingers and thumbs. Just do one bend at a time.....   :)

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