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New Car Day! 1938 P6 Plymouth Deluxe


keithb7

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I’ve gone to the local auto parts stores and asked for options on  brake lines. “Do you have Cu/Ni?” I ask. The kids twist their heads sideways like my Boxer when I talk to her.  
 

I take the one option they have. I’ve been using ¼”. I don’t think its regular steel. I’m not sure. It doesn’t say on the ID tag. Seems to bend fairly easy. It’s somewhat forgiving when you make a wrong bend. I’ve been able to straighten it again and re-shape it. It comes in various straight lengths with flares and nuts on each end. I cut it up, bend and flare as needed. Seems to be working ok for me. 

Edited by keithb7
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9 hours ago, keithb7 said:

I’ve gone to the local auto parts stores and asked for options on  brake lines. “Do you have Cu/Ni?” I ask. The kids twist their heads sideways like my Boxer when I talk to her.  
 

I take the one option they have. I’ve been using ¼”. I don’t think its regular steel. I’m not sure. It doesn’t say on the ID tag. Seems to bend fairly easy. It’s somewhat forgiving when you make a wrong bend. I’ve been able to straighten it again and re-shape it. It comes in various straight lengths with flares and nuts on each end. I cut it up, bend and flare as needed. Seems to be working ok for me. 

 

You can't bend steel lines with your hands so you must be getting the softer stuff.....3/16" is a lot easier to work with.

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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You can buy rolls of brake line tubing usually in 25' lengths if you have a double flares kit to do the ends. You can cut to any length needed and 25' will do most cars. Just make sure you put the fittings on before flaring or you will be cursing for a while. I know...........been there and done that.

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On 3/26/2020 at 7:17 PM, Young Ed said:

Also one tip I saw recently and plan to try is zip tie the lines together at each bend to keep them aligned. 


This worked extremely effectively. Thanks for the tip. I bought a coil of 1/4” brake line. Easy-peasy to bend and shape. 
only suggestion is maybe installing the spring guard before all the bends are complete. Doh!  I’ll get it on there. Before the fittings and flares are installed. 
 

 

 

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Edited by keithb7
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1 hour ago, keithb7 said:


This worked extremely effectively. Thanks for the tip. I bought a coil of 1/4” brake line. Easy-peasy to bend and shape. 
only suggestion is maybe installing the spring guard before all the bends are complete. Doh!  I’ll get it on there. Before the fittings and flares are installed. 
 

 

 

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Great! I believe I saw that tip on an episode of Motortrends Roadkill garage. They do a segment called zip tie moments. 

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The final new brake line, pedals and master linkage were all re- installed today. Something is up with the brakes, and I have suspicion I might know what the issue is. The brake pedal feels great. Smooth and making really good pressure. I noticed that my brake light switch is weeping brake fluid. I will replace it with new.  The problem is, the master cylinder is not relieving pressure. When I pump up the brake pressure the brakes are staying on. I slacked off my pedal free play to ensure the piston returns all the way. I double checked the parts diagram in my shop manual and confirmed that I installed the parts and seals in the proper order. I think I may have gotten burned on the MC rebuild parts kit. It fit, but...I am off to read up on my master cylinder theory and operation. See if I can figure out the problem before I take the MC back out again. That little bugger is not the easiest part to remove. LOL.

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Sometimes the M-Cyl piston does not return all the way back to the stop.

Causing residual pressure.

Too much piston/rubber cup friction on some replacement parts.

 

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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1 hour ago, keithb7 said:

I noticed that my brake light switch is weeping brake fluid.

If you hold your tongue just right,  inhale and exhale, you will make a really funny sound as you suck in air and expel saliva .... plus your wife will be calling 911  :D

 

If fluid is coming out, you are guaranteed air is coming in.

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Found the problem.  Removed old piston at bottom. New piston at top. Did not compare them at re-assembly. Assumed parts ordered were direct replacements. No so. Maybe over its life  someone swapped in a ‘36-37 master cylinder? 
 

Used new seals with old piston and reassembled. 
 

 

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Edited by keithb7
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Much easier to re&re the master cylinder once you’ve learned all the hard ways to do it. :)

Edited by keithb7
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Happy day! I’m feeling good. Reaping the benefits today from working on my ‘38. It’s testing well and continues to improve.  The brakes feel great. I’ve only gone around the block so far.  I’ve got some more work to go yet before I insure it for road use. Steady progress. 
 

Time to drop the pan and look for sludge. Then pick an oil, and set the valves. 
 

 

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Today I tried the blower motor and heater core system. I works! I wired it up to read with the ammeter draw. Simple 10A on/off toggle switch for now.  That was all I had in my parts stash. So I get hi fan speed or off only. I’ll look into variable resistor options so I can control fan speed. 
 

“Heat is a wonderful thing in the shoulder seasons”. - Said Momma. 
 

 

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Couldn't wait any longer to put the seat back in a try a test drive. I invited Momma to jump in and enjoy her efforts. (She reupholstered the seat).It was very comfy. It was good to see her smile. Heat blowing on her feet,  sitting in comfort for the big drive around the block. ?  Part of me is surprised how far the car has come since I bought it. The members on this forum have been very helpful. Thanks for all your assistance so far.  I'm far from done but the rewards are stating to show up now.

 

If anyone has a glove box latch they'd part with let me know! The duct tape is just not doing it for me.

 

IMG_5860.jpg

Edited by keithb7
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16 hours ago, keithb7 said:

Couldn't wait any longer to put the seat back in a try a test drive. I invited Momma to jump in and enjoy her efforts. (She reupholstered the seat).It was very comfy. It was good to see her smile. Heat blowing on her feet,  sitting in comfort for the big drive around the block. ?  Part of me is surprised how far the car has come since I bought it. The members on this forum have been very helpful. Thanks for all your assistance so far.  I'm far from done but the rewards are stating to show up now.

 

If anyone has a glove box latch they'd part with let me know! The duct tape is just not doing it for me.

 

IMG_5860.jpg

 

Looks like a nice cozy space to ride together! Love seeing your progress, Keith. 

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Thanks guys. I enjoy your feedback, and also enjoy sharing my progress. It is exciting as my project moves ahead. It is nice to know there are folks around here that really "Get" these old cars. I can commiserate with you all about the topic.  Most friends, and family in my life sorta hover over the car. They think it's neat and want to go for a ride. They all sorta glaze over when I start talking mentioning the diff or carb work that I completed. I know I've gone too far when I start comparing the inner workings of my M-6 semi auto tranny in my '53, versus my 3 speed with cluster gear, countershaft tranny in my '38. Yet here, we can talk about it and you understand. We share a common language here. We're vintage car outcasts sort of. The weird guys who cling to the old, less popular Mopars. 

 

The cab in the '38 is cozy. Momma and I fit in there nicely.  It sure would have been fun if we were teenagers, borrowing Dad's car in 1940!  I am planning to install a custom radio. I found an old large box style AM tube radio that was period correct. Art-Deco appearance. About 1940. I gutted it. I ordered a Blue-Tooth circuit board with built in amp. It will run off 6V. My goal is to install 2 speakers, and the circuit board in the old radio box. All we do is jump in the car, the iphone automatically synchs up wirelessly to the radio box and plays all our favourite songs. That's the plan. We shall see. I will post photos and share that project when I get to it.

Edited by keithb7
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Here's another couple pics from yesterday, for my supporters. I do feel blessed and very fortunate:

 

 

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Edited by keithb7
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Tonight I’m in thru the fender window to access the engine valves. The crankcase is quite clean.  Traces only of any sludge.  I think it’s another clue that I have a low milage engine in this car. Earlier compression and vacuum readings showed well too. I will drop the pan soon too. Happy findings!

 

 

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Some sludge in the oil pan. Not bad. Can you name the metal piece I found in the bottom of the the oil pan? Seen at bottom of pic. 
 


 

 

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Enjoying your posts/progress as well!  I like seeing that you're not afraid to tackle any project, and that you're very consistent.  That gives me inspiration to get going on my 48 B1D.  We gotta get moved to our new house first though?

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