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engine removal


dr47

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Years ago on my '39 flat 6 I had head bolts, and removed one close the front of the flathead on the driver's side, and one close to the rear of the engine on shotgun side. I put the chain-end lifting brackets under the head bolts and tightened them down.This 2-point attachment balanced the engine really well side to side, and then used the sling eye where it hooked to the hoist to get a good positioning front to back to pull the engine (the sling eye bracket at the hoist will also let you adjust balance side to side if you need it, but flat sixes usually pull out pretty straight).

On my '41 I have head studs and nuts, and there are elongated threaded ends that extend higher than the nuts on the some studs -two on the driver's side front and rear of the head, and one about the middle of the head on the shotgun side. These may have been for the factory assembly originally. These are 3 attachment points I will likely use for chain slings when I pull the engine in a couple months, because they are there already, have enough threads and I won't have to back out head bolts- will just add some nuts over the sling chain end brackets.

I have found that either way will be fine, whether you have head bolts, or studs and nuts.  Just have attachment points one towards the front of the head, and one to the rear on the opposite side. Do tighten them down, that will save your bolts. 

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Ditto what these guys said.  I've pulled a couple of flathead sixes and did so by running the head bolts through chain links with several large fender washers between the bolt head and the chain.  The longer the length of chain between the two head bolts, the less stress on the engine block casting because there is less sideways load pulling on it.  I agree with using two head bolts placed at diagonally opposite locations of the engine (i.e., left-front and right-rear or vice-versa).

 

Good luck!

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