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On my slant 6 I used brass nuts and the high temp antiseize when I did the rebuild.  Never know when its gonna have to come apart again.  I think I did the same thing when I did the valve job in the 230 in my 49 1 ton.  

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Ok, I have an update.  This past Wednesday evening, I decided to give it a little go, by just trying the worst-looking stud.  It was the rear-most stud.  I turned the engine on its side (on the engine stand), took a pair of nuts, tightened them against each other and began applying some force with an open-end wrench on the bottom nut, in the loosening direction.  At first, the nuts just turned on the stud, so I tightened up the nuts about as hard as I felt comfortable without stripping them.  Then it was back at it with the wrench on the lower nut.  To my surprise, the stud started to turn.  I kept at it until I thought I could grip it with my vice-grips (not clamped down, but just using them like an ordinary pair of pliers) and I did this until the stud was out.  Ok, I said, that went well....let's try another one.  So I moved on to the next one and did the same thing.  After the third or fourth one, I stopped using the two nuts and just used the vice-grips to get a very firm grip on the studs and removed them that way.  Unbelievably, they all came out that way in less than an hour, except for the final one, which was the front-most one.  I worked on that one for a little while, spraying penetrating oil and tapping with a brass mallet, grabbing with vice-grips, double-nutting it, etc., and it didn't budge.  So....I let it sit with penetrating oil for a couple of days, till just a few minutes ago, when I went out there and tapped on it some more (actually several fairly sharp raps in all directions), then did the double-nut thing with the open-end wrench AND the vice-grips clamped down really tightly, placed 180 degrees opposite the wrench.  I grabbed the wrench with one hand and vice-grips with the other and applied quite a bit of force to each.  I was a little afraid I was getting close to the point where the stud could twist off, so was about to give up and try some heat, when.....voila!....the stud started to turn.  So I kept at this until it was removed, though it fought me most of the way.  But in the end, I prevailed.   Now I have a nice, stud-free manifold mating surface.

 

I'm glad I went ahead and did this.  It was really a pretty small effort.  I think I will now try to clean up the surface with a few light file strokes, or maybe a very brief/light sanding with my Black and Decker Mouse (which is a small orbital type of sander, I guess you'd say), as the manifold surface looks somewhat pitted.  I suppose I could even take it back to my machinist and have him surface that region to get it really good, but not sure if need to do that and I'd prefer to avoid it if possible.  Following that, I will clean out the threaded holes with a thread chaser, and spray the holes nice and clean with brake parts cleaner and install new studs with sealant or maybe anti-seize as suggested by MB Fowler in his post above.

 

Thanks to everyone for the tips and more importantly for giving me the nudge to proceed with this.  I was afraid it would going to turn into a nightmare, but it worked out amazingly well.  I know it doesn't work out this way a lot of times, but I suppose I got lucky.  I guess I was due, considering the trouble I've had with other areas of the project, LOL.

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nice job Matt! thanks for the update, sometimes you just have to roll up the sleeves and do it.... 

 

oh btw, we will always "give you a nudge" :D

 

 

 

 

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