Three Point Seatbelt

[Richard Cope]

Hi I am considering adding three point seatbelts in my 39 Plymouth Business Coupe.  Many years ago I was against wearing seatbelts and received at least one ticket for not using. However now that my sons and grandchildren occasionally ride in the Plymouth  want to make it as safe as possible.  One concern is installing the upper bolt on the door column.  Came across a company on the internet "Juliano's Interior Products, LLC", Julianos.com which seems to have a way to install the bolt.  The kit comes with the bars with bolts (see below), one is to drop a string in a hole of the door post.  When the string reaches the bottom, it is tied onto the metal bar and lifted upward.  The bolt is pulled through the hole and then the bar is fastened to the sheet metal with screws.  I am curious if anyone has ever used one of their kits and what your impression is.  Also, if anyone has a photo of the door post for a 39 Ply. Coupe without the interior would be greatly appreciated.   Would be helpful to know what the sheet metal looks before loosing the upholstery. 

Thank everyone in advance for your comments and suggestions

Regards,

RC

 

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

never used a kit...this is simple to make stuff at your own shop......however if you are not equipped at home to do this....I see no reason why the kit would not be ideal for your use.

[Richard Cope]

Thanks Adam,

Recently moved, still have a two car garage however during the winter months space is limited and been trying to hold off on grinding and cutting due to dust.  I agree wouldn't take much to make, will probably do so and cost much less. 

[Plymouthy Adams]

if nothing else, these cold winter months are great for planning, staging and doing small tasks that often eat more of your time than working major components....just remember, it all has to get done....you will get there....

[Andydodge]

My Oz 1940 Dodge has had seatbelts since the mid 70's, retractable lap/sash(3 point) on each front seat and non retractable on each side in the rear seat and a lap belt in the middle of the rear seat.....all work well and more than comply with the Oz regulations........I made up a similar metal bar to that shown on your pic and dropped it down on a piece of string thru an opening at the top of the door pillar then used the large seat belt bolt to pull the bar hard against the inside of the pillar, once held tight I drilled thru both inner pillar and the metal bar and installed 3/16th pop rivets purely to hold the bar hard against the inner pillar and was then able to undo the seatbelt bolt, drill a hole in the pillar upholstered panel and then bolt everything back together..........the attached pic is an old one but it shows part of the lower bracket on the Oz passenger side and you can see the seat belt on the Oz drivers side............dunno if this helps, but that Julianos kit looks like a new version of what i did........lol........regards from Oz...........Andy Douglas 

[Richard Cope]

Thanks Andy,

Your car is very nice, the color of the body and interior really set it off.  I like the concept of pulling a bar upward through the door pillar.  Will probably make my own bar / bolt, if I hadn't seen this concept would probably did something more complicated.  My Plymouth is pretty much stock, well until this past summer.   Added disk brakes to the front and a Mitchell's overdrive, which make the car much more drivable in traffic.   In the process of replacing the 600x16 in. tires / wheels with 6 inch wheels and using modern radials 215/70R16.  Got caught in a light rain last summer and the 600x16 don't provide much grip on the road.   Diamond Tire sells this size with a 3 in. white wall, pricey but like the look.  The side appearance of the car will be very similar as the radial is only .4 inches lower, however about 2 in. wider.  Purchased a standard tire locally and there was no issue with fit, will use as a spare.  Will keep the original tires on wheels, in the event that I go to that special car show.   Next project will be to convert the car to 12 volt, a local shop converted a spare generator and starter to 12 volt, therefore the outward appearance won't change, except for the voltage regulator.   The 6 volt is OK and with LED bulbs almost as bright as 12 volt, however seems that the LEDs and halogen don't project through the 39 glass headlight lens as well as the standard bulbs.  Also finding that I am keeping a spare 12 volt battery in the trunk for the stuff we are so use to using now days.

[DrDoctor]

Richard,

   You should be careful about using any kind of sealed beam headlight behind the original fluted headlight lens. The fluting of the sealed beam conflicts with that of the original lens, and causes visibility issues, not to mention that many states consider such a combination illegal. If you do decide to use a sealed beam unit behind the original fluted headlight lens of the original fluted lens, make sure the sealed beam has a clear-unfluted lens, then there’s no light beam conflict, and many states will allow such combinations. We did that here where I live on a ’54 Pontiac that we built a couple of years ago, and the state inspector tho’t it was just fine, and we’ve got plenty of light at night.

   As for the plate in the B-pillar – you’re on the right track in putting it inside of the pillar. I repaired a car many years ago where the builder put such a plate on the outside/interior side, of the pillar, and held it on with bolts, only to have the whole assembly come off when he had a minor accident. Luckily, no one was injured as a result. I redid it using a piece of ½”x2”x12” steel bar, threaded for the belt mounting bracket. I cut a slot near the top of the B-pillar, and lowered the bar, bolting it thru the pillar into threaded holes of the bar (holed being pre-determined). Once installed, I simply welded the opening at the top of the pillar closed. After the upholstery was re-installed – done, and it looked like it’d been there all along.

   Regards, and good luck . . .

[Richard Cope]

Hi Doc.

I will be using the original headlight bulb, in a 12 volt version.  Found that Ford cars of that time period also used the same bulb, and suppliers are now offering in 12 volt. Even with the best of grounds my six volt original bulbs weren't as bright as I would like.  I am using a relay which does help.  LED headlights are OK - not great, don't' require much electric and expensive.  Have tried the 12 volt version with a battery and they seem brighter, will see.  I like your idea of using a longer bar inside the pillar instead of the shorter version in the photo, will provide more support.

Thanks for your comments

Regards

[DrDoctor]

Greetings, Richard,

   A quick follow-up comment on the seatbelt bar – 12” seemed to be the longest I could go given the constraints of the car. I originally planned on using a longer bar, but couldn’t get it inside of the B-pillar, what with the roof on one end, and the floor on the other. I tho’t about going into the pillar in the middle, but the way it was formed hindered that, too. Contemporary cars don’t have anything like what I used, but they’re reinforced though out their structure. The 12’ version, especially being inside of the pillar, will distribute any accident-caused strain within the pillar sufficient to retain it, and thus the occupant(s), too. An accident sufficient to distort the pillar is one that the occupant(s) most likely won’t survive.

   Now, about those headlights – I mis-interpreted your comment – using a bulb vs a sealed beam in conjunction with the original fluted lenses is the proper way to go. I don’t know anyone who’s used the newer LED bulbs. My neighbor and I tried to use LED in the taillights on a ’34 Ford, a ’57 Chevy, and a ’54 Pontiac, and we weren’t too please with them. Instead, we usually use quartz/halogen bulbs, and we really like the results. The only downside is that they’re abit pricey, but it’s his money since they were his cars – I do the work, and he pays the piper.

   I use a lot of Ford parts on my wife’s ’46 Plymouth, and I get the majority of those parts from Mac’s Auto parts (an Eckler’s company).

   Best regards . . .

[Richard Cope]

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Hi Doc,

The LED bulbs that I have been using were purchased from Classic Dynamo and Regulator Conversions (www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com), interesting website, may want to check out. The bulbs have the retaining ring at the base that fits into the headlight shell of the 39 Ply. like the original.   If someone is going to stay with 6 volts, I found them their LEDs be brighter than the standard bulb and use much less electric, however believe the standard bulb in 12 volt is better.  Another disadvantage is they cost around $20 each, whereas the standard bulb in 12 volt is around $3.00.   Have been using LEDs in the taillights and for front directionals using flexible strips of amber LEDs.  Both have worked great, brighter than standard bulbs and no issues with the flasher.

Best Regards,

 

 

 

[mrwrstory]

Richard, back to your initial query, The 3 point is a nice improvement.  I have installed on two diff. cars with very satisfying results.  I assume your Bussiness Coupe does not have a back seat,...and that good news re the 3 point system.  Kits like Julians have a take-up reel that mounts at the base of the real door jam.  It intrudes into the foot space to the point that it makes entry a bit difficult to get your foot over.  Kids have no problem.  Adults with big feet are challenged.

On the second install, I was able to turn the reel around and mount it in the space between the interior trim and the exterior sheet metal.  The result, 'tho a bit more labor intensive, was more like a factory system in appearance and function.