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B4GA- 152


Brent B3B

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Picked up this 1.5 ton yesterday near the Seattle area for $1.00 (one USA dollar) I named him “Buck” LOL 

“Swung” by and played “what the heck?” with Dodgeb4ya (what a blast!)

631156749_B4GAtow.JPG.fed09d25c7135f15377183e652e7ab69.JPG 

This truck is SUCH a rust bucket!.....,. “challenge accepted”.

 

I don’t know who I feel sorry for more, my neighbors or Julie…. :lol:

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2 minutes ago, wallytoo said:

i like it.  not so rusty to us easterners, either, at least from that picture.

thanks Wally,  here is a closer look :lol:

 

 

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  • 6 months later...

On my B4GA I am choosing to try and “revive” this truck with as little expense as I can, keeping it stock, without compromising safety.  (Because it makes me smile.)

I pulled the head, because there was no compression (head gasket). The valve seats are pretty pitted….. I am lapping the valves and cleaning up the seats and some parts…..

block.JPG.21dad3c78939a990e8c9954636dbbc3f.JPG

My plan is to use as much as I can from the truck, the way I bought it.

 

My expense so far is: the truck itself $1. J

Nickle welding rod for exhaust manifold $8. (Local welding supply store)

New intake to exhaust manifold bolts, nuts, washers and exhaust pipe bolts $8. (Local hardware store)

New head and manifold gasket kit $52. ($38 at rock auto $14. shipping)

 

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  • 5 months later...

New NAPA points and condenser $22.

Got it started tonight ?

 

Turns out the previous owner had the wrong points, condenser and it was 180deg out of time.....

 

Need to “fine tune it” next and then move on to the brakes 

stay tuned......

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Tinkered with Buck this weekend, fine tuned the motor. 

I removed the 2speed switch 
9419D319-8933-4B24-81B5-CF03D1B30D3B.jpeg.0259ade6b1ee308a0c4bcab4510e98c4.jpegand cleaned it up -no money spent

70B770B9-3AA5-48F1-8EE9-7A388A00CEB5.jpeg.3ad1362bfec0e5b156c958d29cbeaf3b.jpeg

 

Now, I’m moving on to the brakes.... removed the front cylinders ? the rear are a little more work,  I broke a 3/4” breaker bar, trying to get the rear tire off ?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got all the cylinders off the truck, looks like they haven’t been used in a long time ?

46B1EA18-81CB-43EC-A9D9-9B6B5B0BAF7C.jpeg.8df84c0445b4c3a6f2ab196a97bb594b.jpeg
 

D17342EB-E590-4C21-8B23-13C0976D8900.jpeg.e0e07d7ae47c2b511fc7774ef6821be6.jpeg

 

Before I send them up to Hagen’s to be rebuilt, I am going to check out the booster. I know they don’t rebuild the diaphragm part, but I think they would take on the cylinder if needed. 
 

cost wise, this will be the most expensive part of the truck. I figure around $500. For rebuilt cylinders, a master cylinder kit, brake switch, new hoses and lines. Luckily the drums look like they will clean up well and the pads look great!

up to this point was just labor. I did make another tool out of scrap to remove the rear hub bearings....

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Pulled the booster off the truck last weekend. Gingerly took it apart, a few bolts and the bleeder screw didn’t make it... 

E4DB4549-F775-4E4F-9735-6D671B27BE6A.jpeg.bbac6ab01e07de05711b93036240fc31.jpeg

 

If it turns out the booster doesn’t work out after I clean it up, I e-mailed karps in CA who says they can rebuild it for $400.

If that happens, at least I loosen everything up for them ?

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  • 2 months later...

Ok, cleaned up the booster, blasted and zinc plated (home done) some parts. Threw on some leftover paint cost= free

Installed a “minor” rebuild kit cost= $50. eBay 

2596D44F-586B-4E90-ABDF-A919D7531759.jpeg.2eeeada536f2cba39dd3808abfee9a62.jpeg

 

Most expensive area so far, Sent the wheel cylinders up to be re sleeved cost= $400. Includes; re sleeving, brake switch, bleeder screw for the booster, new “crush washers”, the 3 rubber hoses and shipping 

 

1-1/2” Master cylinder Rebuild kit Cost= $22. Rock auto 

Parts look SO pretty, too bad it won’t last ?

5E5CFD14-7133-4D3F-BA27-B6430A8B367E.jpeg.68684af35adeb879e02390c8e46d73f8.jpeg

 

Cleaned up some more of the two speed parts. The back of the speedometer switch had a rusted pivot and a disintegrated spring. 

I was able to pop the rivet, work the pivot free and replace the spring with one I had lying around.

I took apart the shift cable and cleaned it up, took some kinks out, re lubed it.... little smoother 

 

cost for both= free (so far just the labor)

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  • 2 months later...
On 5/11/2020 at 1:31 PM, Brent B3B said:

Ok, cleaned up the booster, blasted and zinc plated (home done) some parts. Threw on some leftover paint cost= free

Installed a “minor” rebuild kit cost= $50. eBay 

2596D44F-586B-4E90-ABDF-A919D7531759.jpeg.2eeeada536f2cba39dd3808abfee9a62.jpeg

 

Most expensive area so far, Sent the wheel cylinders up to be re sleeved cost= $400. Includes; re sleeving, brake switch, bleeder screw for the booster, new “crush washers”, the 3 rubber hoses and shipping 

 

1-1/2” Master cylinder Rebuild kit Cost= $22. Rock auto 

Parts look SO pretty, too bad it won’t last ?

5E5CFD14-7133-4D3F-BA27-B6430A8B367E.jpeg.68684af35adeb879e02390c8e46d73f8.jpeg

 

Cleaned up some more of the two speed parts. The back of the speedometer switch had a rusted pivot and a disintegrated spring. 

I was able to pop the rivet, work the pivot free and replace the spring with one I had lying around.

I took apart the shift cable and cleaned it up, took some kinks out, re lubed it.... little smoother 

 

cost for both= free (so far just the labor)

 

All of that pretty paint is making me want to tear into my brakes now and get them working right again! Gotta rebuild the carb first though! 

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