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Exhaust baffle spring


willits18

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Is there supposed to be a chassis ground on 6 volt systems? I rewired most everything under the hood and all of the front and rear lighting systems. I ran a new ground from the positive battery terminal to the transmission just as was original. There was no chassis ground, and as near as I can tell-there never was. I didn't add one as I thought that was how a volt was supposed to be. I have a 52 Packard also with a 6 volt positive ground as well and it doesn't have a chassis ground either. I don't know if that would cause any problems or not. 

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No...  but I'd install a chassis ground.?

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When I rebuilt the carb I soaked it for 3 days and sprayed Gumout Carb cleaner through the jet and every other opening and port. I could have left some dirt or small debris in there. I am going to go back through the carb just to be sure. Thanks Merle and everyone else. 

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I had a very similar problem with my rebuild.  Changed everything start up no problem, idle no problem, but under load no so great.  What I discovered is that the wire to the coil was not getting the voltage it needed.  So i replaced that wiring and everything came alive.  The coil has input and out specs, easy to check with volt meter, i just waited for it to be way down on my list of causes.  Good Luck.

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1 hour ago, JPP said:

I had a very similar problem with my rebuild.  Changed everything start up no problem, idle no problem, but under load no so great.  What I discovered is that the wire to the coil was not getting the voltage it needed.  So i replaced that wiring and everything came alive.  The coil has input and out specs, easy to check with volt meter, i just waited for it to be way down on my list of causes.  Good Luck.

I agree with JPP. It certainly could be a clogged main jet, but I would still look at the coil. The spark test only shows there is spark. Use a voltmeter to ensure proper voltage.

 

https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-test-a-spark-plug-ignition-coil-by-eduardo-ruelas

 

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  • 3 months later...

Update. The weather is more conducive to outdoor work here in Nebraska-I only have a MODEL T garage. I put a timing light on it and made an extension so I could advance the throttle while watching the timing light. When I advanced the throttle the timing mark stayed where it was-it didn't advance.  pulled the distributor and took it apart. There is a mechanical advance there. It  was not visible from the top. The advance was all gummed up with oil and sludge. I cleaned it and oiled it. It now works fine. The truck has more power now-I made it up a steep hill in 3rd gear!  Thanks to all. I will post a picture of my truck. Thanks again, Tracy in Omaha. 

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  • 1 month later...

I converted my B2D to 12 volts.  What an improvement. Everything came to life!  It solved the poor-high end performance. Everything seems to be working fine now except the heater blower motor. It worked on 6 volts so I put in as voltage reducer. It won't work on 12 volts with the reducer.  maybe I should look for a 12 volt blower motor.  How far into the future should I look for a 12 volt blower motor that will still fit in the box? 

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  • 2 weeks later...

How fast do these go??  I converted to 12 volts and that definitely helped the loss of power in the first 3 gears. When I'm in 4th gear it seems like it is still lacks some  power. I could only get up to 40 mph on a downgrade in 4th gear. I put in a 12 volt electric fuel pump. I took the filter out of the glass bulb before the carb. It has a clear plastic filter. It looks like the filter is struggling to keep up. The glass bowl however remains full all the time. One thing I noticed is that when I turn in the air bleed screw on the carb it doesn't seem to get richer. I pulled the plugs to do a compression test thinking that it may have a couple of bad valves. It does not.  All cylinders were between 120-130.  When I put the plugs back in I noticed that they are all very clean-look like new! No carbon-they didn't look like they had been used.  On a positive note it is running better in the first 3 gears. I wonder if I should go back to the mechanical fuel pump. The electric pump is rated at 4-7 psi. I haven't tested it yet. 

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  • 3 months later...

It seems to take a long time (about 3 miles of driving!) to get the engine good and warmed up. The heat riser is not working. I have ordered a new spring and will replace it. After the truck is good and warm it will go 50-55mph on the highway. I don't know if they were meant to go much faster.  I also got a new mechanical fuel pump and am running the electric from the tank to the mechanical pump and the mechanical pump to the carb. That seemed to make a difference as well. 

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  • 9 months later...

I rebuilt the carb again and raised the float level a little higher than specs. It runs better at higher speeds and doesn't flood. That seems to be the problem-starving at higher speeds. Is there anything else I can do to get more fuel at higher speeds other than a different carb? 

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