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LEAking rear end near u joint

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Hi, I have a slow leak coming from around where the u joint meets the rear end. Any thoughts what I need to replace. I have never touched the rear other than brakes. Thanks

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Likely need to replace the pinion seal. May also need a Speedi-Sleeve on the pinion flange. I would also suggest to clean/inspect the axle breather. If it’s plugged up there will be a pressure buildup inside the axle housing that exaggerates a seal leak. 

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On my b1b, where does one get a speedy seal and where exactly is the axle breather?  Thanks for the help. 

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Oh, so that is what that is. I will remove it and clean it up. I’m sure it’s clogged with dirt/grease. 

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If you do decide that you have to replace the seal, you'll need to disconnect the driveshaft from the rear, and remove the drive pinion (large nut in the center of the pinion).  Since the tightness of this nut determines the pinion bearings preload, I'd put a mark on one of the edges of the castleated nut, and one on the pinion threads to line it back up as an approximation of how tight the nut needs to be.  If you take the drive pinion to a reputable auto parts supplier (NAPA or other) or a machine shop they should be able to order the correct sized speedi sleeve that you need-if you actually need one.  Sometimes these old sleeves really fight back when you go to remove them so patience is a good tool to use.  I lost mine!

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If you are going to have to replace the pinion oil seal, this is the factory tool to use to make your job a whole lot easier. You can also drill two holes on opposite sides of each other on the face of the seal. Make a pulling plate drilling one hole in the center of it and 2 holes that line up with the holes on the oil seal. Screw two long sheet metal screws through the plate and into the 2 holes on the face of the seal. Using a slide hammer with the proper adapter in the center hole of the plate pull it out. I have not tried this method, but it is said to work if you don't have the factory pulling tool. Good luck.IMG_2836.jpg.d0a112708610aa5660fdc8a2239e7709.jpg

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I’ve pulled many a seal with sheet metal screws through the metal flange area. Some with a slide hammer tool, and some by gripping the screw with Vice Grips and prying against the pliers. Or tapping on the plier with a hammer. 

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Stock type newer seals remove well with these  removal  ways.

 

But I ran into several of the original seals in the trans and rear-end that were made of armour plate steel? and multi-leveled of same. I dd drill holes all over that that dammed trans seal with ever type of pullers I could find!

Maybe someone super glued them in??

 

Ended up with holes in that thing everywhere. I finally took chisels  to the edges  of the seal and got it out.

 

When I came to the real end drive line input seal it was of the same type.

Here I go again!

I way able to borrow with a sizeable down payment the tool (original type) as shown above.

Life was easy!

 

Hope you find a replacement type seal on yours!

 

Best of luck with your project!

 

DJ

 

Edited by DJ194950

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Modern soft thin steel and rubber coated seals remove fairly easy even by the deck screw method which I use a lot.

On the factory MoPar original old seals I only use the miller or eqivalent tools as shown above... even then the seal face gets distorted

1950 Chry Trans Rear Seal removal.JPG

Daly 1950 Dodge pinion seal.JPG

Dodge D34 pinion seal marking.JPG

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Wow, lots of great advice. How will I know if it is an nos seal or a newer seal? Dodge logo, part number stamped on face?  Thanks

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Here's some info for you to consider... I did the sleeve and seal as called out int Jpartington's post below - I added a pic of the SKF parts(with partnumbers on boxes) - bought through Amazon--worked great, still going strong.

image.png.4e17e51ccb74a2d60b3d7132aedf1d6b.png

 

 

 

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