David T Posted November 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2018 Slight rust issue...any ideas for where I can get weld-in parts to cut this out? I am also thinking of getting the flathead to run while I repair the donor motor, Just wanna drive the car! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David T Posted November 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2018 This was cut out...really just small pinholes here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David T Posted November 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2018 More small pinholes.... besides the truck I have no real complaints about rust.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 23, 2018 Report Share Posted November 23, 2018 you can make this easily or you can go to a wrecking yard and find other door hood trunk panels with similar curve and size and cut out and transfer to your panel then weld in...while not a Plymouth this was a most recent fix by me in this manner...same style damage, same technique.....these inner section were welded in with gas torch with zero warpage on the reverse panel that is the trunk outer surface.....treating the underlying backside of the panel is also done at this time while exposed and visible to the naked eye...this panel was a one day event.... I have done the same repairs on this car's hood and the trunk and hood of my 62 Dodge and the trunk of my 48 Plymouth bz cp....all is rather quick easy and straight forward in the process.... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David T Posted November 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 I just got my new fuel tank and straps in...I will try to get it mounted within the next week. As I stated, until the donor motor trans are functional, I am going to try to get the original motor functioning... Pics to be posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David T Posted March 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 I started to go through the 46 over past few days....install gas tank, ect.. I am going to try to start the flathead in it and work any issues out with it. As far as donor car goes, I am also working through that. As of now the only issue it has is a short somewhere that drains a fresh battery in a few hours... I saw the 1950 suburban with the hemi...now I want it even more for mine! We have been looking at the subframe (charger) to see where it needs to be grafted onto the 46 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 31, 2019 Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 17 hours ago, David T said: We have been looking at the subframe (charger) to see where it needs to be grafted onto the 46 are you planning to try and cut and splice the frame rails of the unibody charger to 46 or are you wishing only to mount the cradle to the 46? the suspension is also part of the Charger frame rails and as such will be as much a problem working around as stock rails, this will prove to be involved in my opinion and in another there are better ways and stay mopar at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David T Posted March 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 I will probably just place the cradle. If there is a better way, I am all ears provided it uses the parts I already have (ie...5.7 charger)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David T Posted March 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 Doing a little research and came across some folks that have done a dodge and desoto swap with Dakota frames...they say the P15 frame is too narrow....I will continue to research, but that may be a solution too....steel can always be cut, welded, cut welded and cut again! Also came across an ad from a business close to me that was selling a P15 that had been grafted to a Toyota frame (?). I am keeping this MOPAR, so I probably wont be doing that. Their customer bolted the body onto a 1997 frame, was running a 318 w/904 trans and 8 3/4 rear end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David T Posted March 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 Found a diagram on the net... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 31, 2019 Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 6 minutes ago, David T said: ..they say the P15 frame is too narrow... the 'they' in that line are completely wrong....simple and very effectively done and the strength is way beyond anything one will accomplish with any forward rails, tie plates and gussets and the donor frame section WILL maintain original centerline and use of 48's body mounts....these they just gave up and I am thinking that is simply because they did not have a paint by number diagram. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David T Posted March 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 Evidently you use the front and rear of the Dakota frame and graft that to the original frame, setting ride height at the same time. The GEN I's (87-96) were slightly narrower than GEN II (60.7" front and 59.5" rear) with wheelbases that span 112, 124 and 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David T Posted March 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 sorry for break... 131 inches I found the info here: www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/definitive-Dakota-frame-swap-list.307020/page-3 A named fridaynitedrags wrote an extensive post regarding the swap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 31, 2019 Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 you use just the front clip.....everything to the rear is still 100% factory to your 46..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David T Posted March 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 Yeah. I'm thinking that is a good way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 31, 2019 Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 (edited) personally I think it is the only way to go but I am also very biased...... Edited March 31, 2019 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 31, 2019 Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 (edited) 24 minutes ago, David T said: Evidently you use the front and rear of the Dakota frame and graft that to the original frame, setting ride height at the same time. The GEN I's (87-96) were slightly narrower than GEN II (60.7" front and 59.5" rear) with wheelbases that span 112, 124 and 13 there is nothing to set...………..as I stated, the Dak frame FOLLOWS the centerline of the original frame completely.....if one of the 'theys' on the other site that is naysaying its application were to actually pick up the frame data sheet for the P15 and that of the donor Dakota this would be apparent. There are a few other issue involve based on cab forward but these are minor..the most involved section of the transfer in usually grafting your original frame horns for the front bumper...if the frame section scares the 'theys' this will have them trembling in their boots or wetting themselves.....lol I am in no way trying to be sarcastic or condescending but the reference site tends to believe the S10 frame is an answer for everything...it was not even a good answer for the S10. Many are afraid to even say the mopar name, in doing so they would somehow pop out in boils or start bleeding through their ears. Edited March 31, 2019 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David T Posted March 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 youtube also has a great video at That is also very cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David T Posted March 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 Another example.....this is a dodge Dakota frame with a 1950s Plymouth convertible on top... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David T Posted March 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 So those are two options....either "skin the charger" and graft the P15 body onto it or...use the front clip (possibly rear clip too, should I chose to use the rear end of the charger. I suppose there are advantages and disadvantages to both. Grafting the body onto the charger means leaving engine/trans/rear end/brakes/fuel system in place. Only using the front clip lets me at least place the motor. Still need to figure out trans/rear end/fueling... however, it is more true to the spirit of the P15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 31, 2019 Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 I think you either missed or read over the very essence of my posts..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David T Posted March 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 @Plymouthy Adams No, I read your posts and get it, however there is more than one way to skin a cat. I haven't yet decided anything and basically throwing ideas out there. In essence I can keep much of the car 100% true (something you advocate) however, "skinning" the charger is absolutely easier since it leaves the main components in place. Think about it like this: My endstate is: To have a reliable, daily driver 1946 special deluxe. That includes motor, trans, rear end, fuel system, brakes, suspension. I am constrained by a few things (in order of importance) 1. I prefer not to make drastic permanent changes, however I do want my endstate. 2. Budget. Money matters. So unless the garage squad shows up...the budget is limited. 3. I'm not making a car for shows. 4. I'm not making a racecar. On the plus side, minus reliability, I truly like the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dale Posted March 31, 2019 Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 I put a chevy 350 in my 46 but if doing it over I would have found a 251 Chrysler spitfire motor which is a fit in the Plymouth and had it bored out to the max and overhauled with speed equipment. Would have been really fast with the 411 rearend and super cool. Add rack and pinion power steering and front disc with power. Save you a ton of money and sweat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted March 31, 2019 Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 skinning the charger and grafting you body will be ultimate in time, cost, loss of originality and interrupted interior flow. Front clip, simple, cost effective, maintains cars original lines, stance and mimics suspension albeit with larger modern discs, R&P, massive sway bar and host of other improvement like shock absorbers even. Your car, your call, will never talk you out of what you want......but you went from clip to skinning by looking at one you tube video. Film clip and magazine articles do not get the job done...though I will ad there may be some fun in looking at both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David T Posted March 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2019 Another good option. I could simply keep the motor/trans. Update brakes/steering and rear end just to be able to cruise around Houston. I am not too opposed to that either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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