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1940 Chrysler Windsor Coupe brake conversion


dangulo

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@Andydodge that is a beautiful car... Appreciate the insight. I'm running stock wheels and firestone 6.50-16 and sure hope it comes out looking as good as your Dodge looks on your picture.  Any more pics of the suspension, motor and interior? Please share if you do ;)

 

All the best and thanks for sharing!

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  • 3 weeks later...

The holidays are busy times for sure so staying focus on the project is challenging to say the least.

Last weekend I was able to test some paints for the engine color and I believe I've found the "one" ;)

The color is bronze From Hirschauto.com and I have to say, really digging where its going.

Also, did my best to knock out the dents but well just leave it at that... 

Next week I definitely plan to sneak away in the garage to install the oil pan and clutch cover.

 

 

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Edited by dangulo
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Home for the holidays and was able to sneak away for a bit this morning...

Things are finally starting to come together. As it stands, I was able to install oil pan with clutch cover but so now I get to start working on the front end suspension.

Well wasting no time, cleaned the upper control arm using my parts cleaner and brushed away...

Using  the dead stock parts I received from ebay now the only thing to do was clean and paint.. Not bad for a days work...

Once I the other side done as well, I will start putting things back together... 

I know it's taking me a long time but hey gotta do it right and no one else will do it, unless I pay them LOL, but that ain't gonna happen ;) 

Merry Christmas to all and best wishes!

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You asked for some more pics of the 41 Plymouth, I have some interior shots and engine bay, the car was an older restoration when I bought it tho' it needed some tidying up, I had the seat rebuilt so you didn't look thru the steering wheel tho' the upholstery was fine, I added a couple of dash knobs, the tacho & blinker switch, also added the Fulton Visor and added the Beehive Oil Filter, HEI dissy and generally tidied up the engine bay, tho' it still needed work ........if I had of kept it a twin carbed, finned headed 230 with a T5 gearbox was planned..........also note that it has the folding rear seats, it was an ASC or Auxillary Seat Coupe from the factory tho' as a factory RHD export car assembled in South Africa it must have been a fairly rare car as well..........gee I was a goose to sell it...........lol........still got the 40 Dodge 4Dr sedan tho' but I suppose you want pics of the coupe so here goes........lol.........regards, andyd   

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Edited by Andydodge
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16 hours ago, Andydodge said:

You asked for some more pics of the 41 Plymouth, I have some interior shots and engine bay, the car was an older restoration when I bought it tho' it needed some tidying up, I had the seat rebuilt so you didn't look thru the steering wheel tho' the upholstery was fine, I added a couple of dash knobs, the tacho & blinker switch, also added the Fulton Visor and added the Beehive Oil Filter, HEI dissy and generally tidied up the engine bay, tho' it still needed work ........if I had of kept it a twin carbed, finned headed 230 with a T5 gearbox was planned..........also note that it has the folding rear seats, it was an ASC or Auxillary Seat Coupe from the factory tho' as a factory RHD export car assembled in South Africa it must have been a fairly rare car as well..........gee I was a goose to sell it...........lol........still got the 40 Dodge 4Dr sedan tho' but I suppose you want pics of the coupe so here goes........lol.........regards, andyd   

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Thanks for sharing! Really dig the beehive oil filter and especially how clean the car looks!

 

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Some more progress here... I have a little more loose ends to wrap up for the front end and then can finally move onto what I was originally intending to work on which was the disc brake conversion.. LOL

But all in all, I am finally starting to see some light at the end of the tunnel..

Well at least for the front end suspension..

 

Happy New Years everyone!

 

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12 hours ago, dangulo said:

Some more progress here... I have a little more loose ends to wrap up for the front end and then can finally move onto what I was originally intending to work on which was the disc brake conversion.. LOL

But all in all, I am finally starting to see some light at the end of the tunnel..

Well at least for the front end suspension..

 

Happy New Years everyone!

 

 

Now would be a great time to move the upper shock mount to the frame for added dampening and overall better handling and ride characteristics 

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15 minutes ago, Bob Riding said:

Awesome thread! What did you replace vs. reuse and where did you purchase the front end rubber parts?

Hi Bob,

 

Happy New year, for the most part I cleaned all stock mopar stock with the exceptions of a few odds and ends.

The main items I did end up replacing with NOS parts possible:

  • Passenger upright (Moog)
  • Lower control arm shafts (Moog), I prob could've still used original but found a good deal on ebay.
  • Upper control arm shafts (Moog), same as above.
  • Eccentric bushing (Lion)
  • For the rubber parts I was able to find a rubber upper suspension kit from robertsmotorparts.com which I was really happy with the quality of the seals and also excited that it came with the correct hex seal for the lower pin screw that goes between the bottom of the upright and lower control arm.
  • Tie rod kit from robertsmotorparts which I have yet to complete.
  • Lower pin from Andy Bernbaum

My thought was to use as much as I can and install only what I need to replace. Probably why this is taking me so long but for a weekend warrior I can't complain ;)

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11 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

Now would be a great time to move the upper shock mount to the frame for added dampening and overall better handling and ride characteristics 

Happy New year Plymouthy Adams,

Yes that is definitely on my list to but still need to do more research for myself so I can wrap around my head. But YES to this ;)

 

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1 hour ago, 40desoto said:

The Fatman dropped uprights kit I believe come with front shock relocation mounts. They mount to the frame.  I have some pictures I can post if needed. 

Happy New Year 40desoto, would love to see some pictures for reference and possibility a future project as my budget wont allow for the moment..  lol 

 

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On 12/31/2018 at 10:17 AM, dangulo said:

Hi Bob,

 

Happy New year, for the most part I cleaned all stock mopar stock with the exceptions of a few odds and ends.

The main items I did end up replacing with NOS parts possible:

  • Passenger upright (Moog)
  • Lower control arm shafts (Moog), I prob could've still used original but found a good deal on ebay.
  • Upper control arm shafts (Moog), same as above.
  • Eccentric bushing (Lion)
  • For the rubber parts I was able to find a rubber upper suspension kit from robertsmotorparts.com which I was really happy with the quality of the seals and also excited that it came with the correct hex seal for the lower pin screw that goes between the bottom of the upright and lower control arm.
  • Tie rod kit from robertsmotorparts which I have yet to complete.
  • Lower pin from Andy Bernbaum

My thought was to use as much as I can and install only what I need to replace. Probably why this is taking me so long but for a weekend warrior I can't complain ;)

Hi dangulo,

Great info. How did you make the decision about what to keep vs. replace? I was looking at my front end, and being a CA car, there is very little rust. I was going to replace the tie rod ends of course, get new king pins, and replace the rubber bits, but the upper and lower control arms and bushings look like a dip in the solvent tank and a good wire brushing would suffice. Ditto with the A-arms. Inquiring minds want to know!

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10 hours ago, Bob Riding said:

Hi dangulo,

Great info. How did you make the decision about what to keep vs. replace? I was looking at my front end, and being a CA car, there is very little rust. I was going to replace the tie rod ends of course, get new king pins, and replace the rubber bits, but the upper and lower control arms and bushings look like a dip in the solvent tank and a good wire brushing would suffice. Ditto with the A-arms. Inquiring minds want to know!

@Bob Riding,

 

My approach was to take apart inspect, clean and use solvent as you mentioned for all the parts., Also, as I took the components apart I used my judgement on what had excessive play mainly on all the bushings for both upper/lower control arm. If there was what I considered to much play, then I replaced. Definitely not the most accurate and best method but seemed to work for me.

 

On the other hand, just about all the rubber seals on the suspension was in pretty bad shape as you can see from pics I posted, so in this case it made sense to replace all rubber seals with a kit since I had already taken apart for cleaning/painting.

 

Now with all that said, please note that I don't turn wrenches for a living so should be noted that you might want to ask a professional and keep researching here on the forum topics.. a lot of good info. Hopefully that helps a little and please feel free to reach out as I am also learning as I go.

 

All the best,

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14 hours ago, dangulo said:

@Bob Riding,

 

My approach was to take apart inspect, clean and use solvent as you mentioned for all the parts., Also, as I took the components apart I used my judgement on what had excessive play mainly on all the bushings for both upper/lower control arm. If there was what I considered to much play, then I replaced. Definitely not the most accurate and best method but seemed to work for me.

 

On the other hand, just about all the rubber seals on the suspension was in pretty bad shape as you can see from pics I posted, so in this case it made sense to replace all rubber seals with a kit since I had already taken apart for cleaning/painting.

 

Now with all that said, please note that I don't turn wrenches for a living so should be noted that you might want to ask a professional and keep researching here on the forum topics.. a lot of good info. Hopefully that helps a little and please feel free to reach out as I am also learning as I go.

 

All the best,

Again, thanks...that what i was planning to do. Great minds...

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  • 2 weeks later...

As my front end rebuild is pretty much complete, I started mocking the front disc conversion. 

So far everything is looking like it will fit pretty good and no clearance issues as of yet.

 

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Before I move to far, I plan to also clean and replace the tie rods.

Here are some pics of what was under years of mud and gunk.. lol 

As for the steering, not sure what is considered as to much play in the steering as this be a good time to get the box rebuild.

In the meantime, I was able to remove and clean some parts..

Ran some  parts thru my parts cleaner and after a fresh paint and rubber bushing, its looking almost good as new.

 

One thing, I did not remove was the steering arm itself, for one because I am not quite sure how to remove and don't want to start banging away so need to do more research on how to remove the steering arm.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Things have been a little slow here but still making progress...

The front end is completely rebuild (I hope) and including all new tie rods..

Disk brakes (rotors and pads) are all installed and seem to have the proper clearance... 

 

Now time to focus on the master cylinder..

I did remove the stock MC from the car and have been staring at it (all I can do at this point LOL)

I been searching here on the forum to find what has been used and worked the best for master cylinder upgrades... So far some say ECI works and other post have been a 180 degree...

I will post a picture of the stock MC and upload here in a few..

Question to anyone with a 40 Chrysler Windsor Coupe, what master cylinder worked for you? 

 

Appreciate your insights friends ;)

 

 

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Just a question re your disc caliper brackets............I see you are using the 1940 stub axles which as far as I am aware are the same as the ones on the 1940 Dodge & Plymouth...........its hard to tell from the pic you posted but I can see that the caliper bracket is bolted to the two top stub axle bolts BUT does it attach to the bottom bolts?.............I used the 1941 to 1954 Stub axles and my caliper bracket uses the single upper and both lower bolts that this 1941-1954 stub axle provides its more of a 360 degree bracket..............andyd 

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20 hours ago, Andydodge said:

Just a question re your disc caliper brackets............I see you are using the 1940 stub axles which as far as I am aware are the same as the ones on the 1940 Dodge & Plymouth...........its hard to tell from the pic you posted but I can see that the caliper bracket is bolted to the two top stub axle bolts BUT does it attach to the bottom bolts?.............I used the 1941 to 1954 Stub axles and my caliper bracket uses the single upper and both lower bolts that this 1941-1954 stub axle provides its more of a 360 degree bracket..............andyd 

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Hi Andy’s, yes the caliper bracket bolts to top and bottom. The kit is from Rustyhope and so far very happy with. I did have to get the lowers holes on my arm and knuckles enlarged/tapped but that went smooth.

 

below is a picture from Rustyhope website which you can see the bottom holes where it mounts with bolts.

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So what master cylinder did you did you use for your conversion? And was there any modifications other than a bracket used?

 

thanks 

Danny

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Danny....thanks for the pic on the Rustyhope brackets, they look fine.......my car uses the master cylinder and booster that the front discs used on the production car, its an Oz PBR brand dual circuit master cylinder and its firewall "pendant" pedal mounted as the attached pic shows, its using an early 60's Chev bracket and modified pedal............this was all done in the mid 1970's when I built the car........still working o/k tho' there are some things I'd do differently but I can live with it a little longer...........lol............andyd  

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38 minutes ago, Andydodge said:

Danny....thanks for the pic on the Rustyhope brackets, they look fine.......my car uses the master cylinder and booster that the front discs used on the production car, its an Oz PBR brand dual circuit master cylinder and its firewall "pendant" pedal mounted as the attached pic shows, its using an early 60's Chev bracket and modified pedal............this was all done in the mid 1970's when I built the car........still working o/k tho' there are some things I'd do differently but I can live with it a little longer...........lol............andyd  

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Thanks for sharing and looks great! Wow really impressed that you did the up-grade in the 70's and looking new as ever! 

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  • 1 month later...

I started to prep for the new master cylinder which is to remove the pedal assembly and clean for the new MC.

Not quite sure which MC will be installed but figured that while I do my homework, I can at least get things started here.

Probably a good time to inspect the brake lines and see if they will require any new ones..

 

Below are some pictures of the pedal assembly removed from the Chrysler which will require a lot of wire brushing..

Anyway thought I share the status and will post pics of my process.

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Re the brake lines, you maybe best to replace the front ones at least to suit the discs which would probably be 3/16th whereas the original brake lines front & rear would be 1/4"  and may pose a problem getting them to fit either the master cylinder or front brake hose ..........and you may have to use an adaptor if you still have the stock rear brakes as again, they have the 1/4 " line going to them...........so maybe a 3/16th line going back from the master cylinder to an adaptor that the 1/4 line screws into...........but I maybe wrong.......lol..........andyd      

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BTW...........when you pull the clutch pedal mechanism apart there are a couple of pairs of diecast spherical bearing "balls" that can be quite worn.......I found that the exact same things but made of a plastic/neoprene or nylon material was used in Oz Valiant clutch assemblys, at least here in oz up to the mid 1970's.....so I'd be fairly confident that they were also used in US mopars up to the 70's also...........basically doing the exact same job as the 1940's diecast pieces........andyd   

Edited by Andydodge
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