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Cabbage Hauler - WD-21 Build Thread


Jomani

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Several members have used the engine hoist to move their cabs, tho the best adaptation that I have seen is where a lumber frame is used to lift at the top of the door frames from inside the cab...this lumber frame slips onto the hoist boom end, has attached lumber on the hoist side to limit cab movement (a hilt?), and a removable stop away from the hoist, to allow the lumber frame to easily pass through the door openings and the stop to be installed to limit cab movement...all lumber surfaces that could touch painted surfaces are covered with carpet e.g., to protect the paint :cool:

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6 hours ago, JBNeal said:

Several members have used the engine hoist to move their cabs, tho the best adaptation that I have seen is where a lumber frame is used to lift at the top of the door frames from inside the cab...this lumber frame slips onto the hoist boom end, has attached lumber on the hoist side to limit cab movement (a hilt?), and a removable stop away from the hoist, to allow the lumber frame to easily pass through the door openings and the stop to be installed to limit cab movement...all lumber surfaces that could touch painted surfaces are covered with carpet e.g., to protect the paint :cool:

That’s what I did. $40 or so in 2x4s and allthread worked great but my truck floor was soggy. Your solution is awesome using the stock body mounts to lift it! Just gotta put the doors on last...

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I need to be able to move the cab every time I want to work on it - I wish I could set it on jack stands and leave it in one place. The old motor home I dismantled had a heavy duty rack on it that I cut up. I had some heavy duty casters from another project that I disn’t use. A days worth of fabrication and I can now move the cab anywhere by myself. The last picture shows it tucked away under the car port.

 

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Your cart looks quite similar to mine.  I set my uprights on top of my frame work instead of on the casters and remove them and replace them with tall uprights that I bolt a couple 2 x 4's to for working on box panels, fenders, doors, etc. at a comfortable work height.   Right now it's holding a Mach I hood that's waiting for masking and blackout section.  The one thing I'd change is swapping out a couple of the casters for some with brakes.

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10 hours ago, Dave72dt said:

Your cart looks quite similar to mine.  I set my uprights on top of my frame work instead of on the casters and remove them and replace them with tall uprights that I bolt a couple 2 x 4's to for working on box panels, fenders, doors, etc. at a comfortable work height.   Right now it's holding a Mach I hood that's waiting for masking and blackout section.  The one thing I'd change is swapping out a couple of the casters for some with brakes.

 

I appreciate the advice. I like the idea of making the height adjustable. At some point, I need to pull the cab back off and add some reinforcement - I want to be able to roll it onto my trailer when I get to the point of painting.

 

The casters I used will lock in four different directions. I set each wheel facing a different direction and it holds very well.

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Finally got around to spraying some epoxy primer on the front grill. I stripped it down to bare metal back in July or August and it has been sitting on my bench since then. I have never sprayed epoxy primer before so I mixed up a small batch - just enough to spray the top piece. I was very happy with the results. Tomorrow, I will finish cleaning up the bottom section and get some primer on that.

 

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Now I am trying to decide if I should hit it with a coat of urethane primer. From what I have read, I only have about a week to cover the epoxy primer - I won’t be ready for paint for a long time.

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I had planned to get the grill in primer and set aside until I finished the frame and drive train but couldn’t resist getting it ready for paint. It has been over 30 years since I have done any real body work and paint. The grill definitely put me to the test - lots of nooks and crannies.

 

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Ready for paint. Still debating color - I picked up a couple of pints, should have the first test colors sprayed tomorrow. Going with single stage paint to keep the vintage looking finish - not sticking with original colors.

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Got some paint on the grill today. I saw a truck a while back that had a color scheme that I really liked. I tried to pick similar colors from a book at the paint supply store in town. This is not quite what I was going for - might grow on me. I think I will go darker green - I think I’m happy with the white. The wind came up a little when I was painting the green and blew a little dirt into the paint. Overall, I think the paint came out fairly good.

 

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   Well you sure are doing one heck of a job. Great shine. I hope my project looks as good. Get the darker green you want now, you only painted one part, that can be changed. The green I want is darker than stock, I think. Is there any black in your plan? The pinstriping idea has been on my mind also. My driver has remnants and another had a shadow of color of striping. These cabs also have a nice swoop line on the cab, rear of door window, front fender speed lines, hood louvers. I guess you were ready for paint J-man. Like eating an elephant,huh? Just need a place to put all the pieces. Looks great.

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Too bad I am so late, I have like 31 or 32 Flathead engines here...  No extra 265's or 251's(I WISH)...

 

The 360 is a awesome engine.  I ran one in my 1959 D100.  I used the flathead six/Poly V8 bell housing.  I was able to run the original driveline that way to keep things simple.  I hand fabricated motor mount brackets that bolted to the frame.  Later I found a Industrial 318 timing cover with the high mounted water pump, so I could use a mechanical fan.  To set the timing mark, while using this type of timing cover, just put the engine at TDC on #1, and scribe a line where the pointer is. Then remove the balancer, and make a groove with a cut off wheel.  It will look just like a factory line in the balancer.  I use flourescent yellow marker or white to color the groove to make setting timing easy.  

 

I just traded off my last high water pump cover towards a poly 318 4 BBL intake.  So I no longer have it.  Sorry...

 

 

 

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Thanks for the feedback everyone. I plan to do some pinstripjng to highlight some of the hood and body lines but never thought about doing the grill - definitely something to consider. I ordered a gallon (paint and activator) of Jaded Green metallic single stage paint from Eastwood to try on the lower section of the grill. Just couldn’t come to grips with the first attempt at green. Hopefully not too dark and not too metallic. My plan is to use the green on the lower section of the grill, fenders, running boards and frame.

 

 

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5 minutes ago, Jomani said:

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I plan to do some pinstripjng to highlight some on the hood and body lines but never thought about doing the grill - definitely something to consider. I ordered a gallon (paint and activator) of Jaded Green metallic single stage paint from Eastwood to try on the lower section of the grill. Just couldn’t come to grips with the first attempt at green. Hopefully not too dark and not too metallic. My plan is to use the green on the lower section of the grill, fenders, running boards and frame.

 

 

 

FYI they came with some pinstriping when new. You can kinda make them out in my 47. I think they started that postwar after deleting the stainless bars on the lower grill. 

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It is interesting that your turn signals are on the fenders. Mine are actually on the grill. You can see the hole better in this picture. I am guessing that they were not original to the truck. Were turn signals a factory option?

 

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The idea for a turn signal "device" was patented by Percy Douglas-Hamilton in 1909, thou he had finished the design in 1907.

 

The turn signal itself was either an option or regular feature, depending on the manufacturer after WW2. 

Dodge made it an option on all its cars by 1941.

The Feds made it a law in 1958.

 

48D

 

My Dad: Ok, Timmy...is the turn signal working now????

Me: Yes! ..No!...Yes!...No! ...Yes!...No!.....

 

 

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22 hours ago, Jomani said:

It is interesting that your turn signals are on the fenders. Mine are actually on the grill. You can see the hole better in this picture. I am guessing that they were not original to the truck. Were turn signals a factory option?

 

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I don't believe they were a factory option on the W trucks. I've seen them next to the headlight or even on top of it. On my other W I've converted my cowl lights to signals. 

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I started stripping the frame down today. Brackets and trailer hitch receiver removed. If it is welded to the frame, I have to believe it wasn’t original.

 

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Shortly after I started cleaning up the frame, FedEx arrived with my Jade Green paint. Had to stop work on the frame and get the lower section of the grill scuffed up and resprayed. This green is more what I was looking for. I will mate it up with the white upper grill tomorrow and see how it looks.

 

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