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NickPickToo

My First Car -- P15 1947 Plymouth Deluxe

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7 hours ago, NickPickToo said:

Now am starting to itch for that original heater.  I guess we just need a resistor to bring the 12 back to 6 and then clean up the heater we inherited.  It looks different than yours, but it matches the photos in the parts manual.   Here is a picture from when I was in teardown mode.

IMG_0141.jpg

They used several different heaters in these cars. You could also get dual heaters, with one on the drivers side.The dual heater cars had vents in the cardboard kick panels.

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On 12/11/2019 at 10:09 PM, YukonJack said:

I think taping off the head bolts before painting might have been a good look. 

Had the same thought, but we ordered real head bolts just before I painted.  I'll be changing these out so it will have the same effect. 

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2 hours ago, YukonJack said:

There aren't any controls except the switch on the front. The 3 vents are open for heat and closed for defrost. Keep in mind you won't get the same amount of air flow to the defroster as a modern car.

DSCF0001.JPG

 

Excellent......thanks! Instead of plumbing the defrost I might run a hose to the driver footwell.

 

Any ideas on whether this was a dealer install or maybe an accessory item?

Edited by Sam Buchanan

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If you have the history of your car - if it was originally sold in the North, then it's likely that it had a heater installed at the dealership.  But from what I've heard & seen, if it came from some place like Texas or So Cal., then the chances are good that the heater was only installed later.  (Especially if it is not a Special DeLuxe.)

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10 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

Excellent......thanks! Instead of plumbing the defrost I might run a hose to the driver footwell.

 

Any ideas on whether this was a dealer install or maybe an accessory item?

I can't say for certain if these were dealer installed or not. There are a lot of these Arvin heaters around, some have studs that mount them and others, like mine that have threaded sleeves around the core outlets to mount it. The other styles of heaters I've seen have been Mopar branded. There is one similar to the Arvin but more square and the one like Nick has in his firewall pic. The one in Nicks picture is the same style used for the dual heater set up which intended for colder climates or the larger cars. 

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On 12/21/2019 at 3:29 PM, NickPickToo said:

It's hard to go by deluxe or super deluxe as this engine came out of a '55 P26.  When we got it, the small house on the water pump went to the heater and the pipe at the back of the head, passenger side also went to the heater.  There is also a whole on the side of the head, diver side that had a fitting but the fitting was completely clogged and no hose on it.  

 

The opening on the drivers side of the head is for the water temperature gauge

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Hey, I turned 100 this week 🤗  

 

That means I've spent more time with my phone in my hand than with a wrench in my hand.

Edited by NickPickToo

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Question:

 

Attachment bolts on an aftermarket front motor mount are too wide by just a fraction of an inch (maybe 1/16th or so), but its enough to keep it from fitting the two holes on both sides.  The rubber on this product is sandwiched between two steel plates so there is no play to try and squeeze it together and in.  Is this just a faulty product, is it the wrong product (is there variation) or am I missing something about how to get this to fit?

 

Thank you for your help in advance

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I ran into the same problem. I took a round file and opened each of the holes up just enough to get the mount to drop in. It didn't take very much from each hole to make it work.

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6 minutes ago, 61spit said:

I ran into the same problem. I took a round file and opened each of the holes up just enough to get the mount to drop in. It didn't take very much from each hole to make it work.

Thank you, I may have to do the same, but does anyone know if there is actually variation by application and if there is a better fit if I ask the supplier the right questions?

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1 hour ago, NickPickToo said:

Thank you, I may have to do the same, but does anyone know if there is actually variation by application and if there is a better fit if I ask the supplier the right questions?

Never mind.  This is a mute point now.  I filed it out a bit.  Didn't take much.  Thank you spit.  

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Question about the vacuum advance:   I have a few options here but would like to understand the pros and cons of each.   1) I could connect the vacuum advance to one of the two carbs or 2) I could connect the vacuum advance to the intake manifold directly, or 3) I could just ignore the vacuum advance all together.   

 

I understand how the VA works.  It basically impacts the mechanical timing slightly as the engine goes from idle to full throttle.  Not using the VA at all means the mechanical timing doesn't change at all which will work but also gives up power and fuel efficiency in certain driving speeds.  What I don't understand is how the choice of where to connect the advance impacts this whole process.     

 

What are the pro's and con's of each choice?  

If I connect it to the manifold, should I cap off the connections on the carb?  

If I connect to a single carb, will it cause unwanted variation in performance between he two carbs? 

 

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Nick I was told to connect it to the manifold not one of my carbs.  Was told that the manifold vacuum was the better source but I don't really know why.  Mine functions with no problems.

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vacuum advance to the manifold has your timing advance full at idle and you lose this on acceleration and any engine load change....….the VA should really be ported to a single carb for proper advance.  Nick, mechanical advance  is just that and has X degree depending on rotational speed at given time.  If this is working you get no more performance really from the VA but you will be able to advance greater at light load for fuel economy....under any acceleration loss of vacuum occurs and you default back to your mechanical.  

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about the only real valid reason for manifold is if you have a cam with a longer duration over stock...this will help smooth it out some at idle....you will lose your manifold vacuum on acceleration and only as the engine comes to speed the manifold will start recovering and as always, at steady constant, manifold vacuum should stabilize.    As a side note, Don had a slightly warmed over cam in his built DeSoto block and probably benefitted to some degree....though I really do not think it would have made much difference if ported.....two methods two schools of thought and if you ever talk with brand x guys, this is about all they know is manifold...

Edited by Plymouthy Adams

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2 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

vacuum advance to the manifold has your timing advance full at idle and you lose this on acceleration and any engine load change....….the VA should really be ported to a single carb for proper advance.  Nick, mechanical advance  is just that and has X degree depending on rotational speed at given time.  If this is working you get no more performance really from the VA but you will be able to advance greater at light load for fuel economy....under any acceleration loss of vacuum occurs and you default back to your mechanical.  

So should I block off the port on the second carb?

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Nick, this is from the "For What It's Worth" department.......

 

On my Beetle, the VA is teed to both Weber carbs and the advance works very smoothly. Don't know if this is applicable to your application, just another data point.

 

beetle.jpg.9d2071a2f6952c9cfc5dde113c233b35.jpg

 

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I think it looks good overall, but I'm a bit worried about how tight the front mount is relative to the front pulley.  We'll see.

 

I think the black head bolts and grey throttle linkage are a good accent to the silver engine.

IMG_0456.jpg

IMG_0452.jpg

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