Frank Elder Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 On 10/22/2020 at 9:28 AM, NickPick'sCrew said: I have some free time today, so I'll make the choice easier on him by removing the fenders while he's at school. FYI, his cross country team won their Catholic League meet this past weekend. Nicholas (and five others on his team) received All Catholic League designation (finishing in top 20). 17:20 was not his fastest time ever, but by far his fasted time on the specific course (one of the more difficult courses in the area). His team runs a meet this weekend to hopefully qualify for the regional meet and their chances are good (not given). How far does he have to run on the course? When I ran cross country back in the 70s we only had to go a mile and a half. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPick'sCrew Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 1 hour ago, Frank Elder said: How far does he have to run on the course? When I ran cross country back in the 70s we only had to go a mile and a half. It's 5K (3.1 miles). Frank, in the Marine Corps we had to run 3 miles in 18 minutes for a perfect score on the Physical Fitness Test -- a few of us scored perfect, and it was even fewer after boot camp. These kids are flirting with a 16 minute 3 mile and some of them are even faster than that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted October 24, 2020 Report Share Posted October 24, 2020 9:03 was my fastest in the mile and a half.......like a herd of thundering turtles galloping across the dew covered hilly golf courses early on Saturday morning......I never had the makings of a Varsity player...lol. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper50 Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 I remember working hard to get my 3 mile time down below the 18 min mark to max. Never did. Always maxed the situps and pullups but 18:09 was the closest I ever came. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPick'sCrew Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 (edited) 11 hours ago, casper50 said: I remember working hard to get my 3 mile time down below the 18 min mark to max. Never did. Always maxed the situps and pullups but 18:09 was the closest I ever came. I was right there with you. Pull ups and sit ups all day long, but fighting hard to make up those last few elusive seconds in the run. Shot 245 (dropped the five points at the 500 of all places) on the range, so figured I could shoot first and run later. Edited October 25, 2020 by NickPick'sCrew 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper50 Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 (edited) I agree. lol I shot expert on every weapon I used for 23 years. Maxed it once. Edited October 25, 2020 by casper50 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted October 25, 2020 Report Share Posted October 25, 2020 14 hours ago, casper50 said: I remember working hard to get my 3 mile time down below the 18 min mark to max. Never did. Always maxed the situps and pullups but 18:09 was the closest I ever came. I I tried my damnedest to avoid any and all running when I was in the army. I found that people shooting at me with stuff like RPD's and B-40 rockets gave me ALL the inspiration I needed to run faster than a speeding bullet for as long as I needed. There really are some things you don't need to train for. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted October 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 YNZ's instructions look like a good start, but this still looks nuts ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbuhagiar Posted October 26, 2020 Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 (edited) Nick, It may look intimidating but it isn't. Sorta like geometry...at first it seems difficult but after a bit of practice it's actually kinda fun. (For me, anyway.) Just take your time and lay all of the parts out next to the body and determine which needs to go in first (usually the underdash harness - everything radiates out from there). and make sure you have all of the necessary clips and clamps to fasten the harness to the body before you start. Based on how well you've done so far I expect that you'll have no problems. Good luck! Edited October 26, 2020 by kbuhagiar 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted October 26, 2020 Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 1 hour ago, NickPickToo said: YNZ's instructions look like a good start, but this still looks nuts ? I did YNZ on a 46 De Soto it was simple and I don't think you'll have a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted October 26, 2020 Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 oh and by the way @NickPickToo you will find working under the dash in the future easier if you paint the back of the dash bright gloss white.....really reflects your trouble light 10X better. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Hiebert Posted October 26, 2020 Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 ...and easier the younger you are when you do it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted October 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 2 hours ago, kbuhagiar said: Nick, It may look intimidating but it isn't. Sorta like geometry... So, I got a B in AP Statistics and am tracking an A in AP Calculous so far this year, but geometry, that was barely a C ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted October 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2020 2 hours ago, Frank Elder said: I did YNZ on a 46 De Soto it was simple and I don't think you'll have a problem. Under dash harness to the dash before installing dash or install dash first? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbuhagiar Posted October 27, 2020 Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 3 hours ago, NickPickToo said: Under dash harness to the dash before installing dash or install dash first? If it were me I would install the dash first and then the wire; that's how I did it on my 47. Better perspective for final placement and routing of the harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted October 27, 2020 Report Share Posted October 27, 2020 6 hours ago, NickPickToo said: Under dash harness to the dash before installing dash or install dash first? Standing on my head.......it was a complete car that had not been taken apart, if you can throw your wiring on the dash before installing it you're miles ahead in my book and will be a lot easier. I wish I could come help. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted October 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2020 Edges are rough but 19 attachment points in all locked down tight. It's firm right now, but guessing it may loosen up with a few thousand miles or so. Just a few pics here. Also put cushion/strap everywhere the body sits on the frame 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin's 49 Plymouth Posted October 30, 2020 Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 Nick, I'm doing my wiring now. I recommend starting with the back of the car, by feeding the wires up through the drivers pillar. Then with the dash, route the wires through the firewall and put the instrument cluster in the dash, sit in the front seat with the dash in your lap, then run the wire and gauge tubing, then install the dash. My opinion only... You have done very well. At your age I restored a 67 dodge charger, it was a lot easier than these cars. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eneto-55 Posted October 30, 2020 Report Share Posted October 30, 2020 Just remember that the dash installs over the A pillar post upholstery, and it in turn goes on after the headliner, so unless you will plan to loosen or remove the dash again later, the wiring needs to go overhead, then the headliner, etc., before the dash is installed for the last time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPick'sCrew Posted October 31, 2020 Report Share Posted October 31, 2020 (edited) Nicholas's team made it to the State meet today. Their times going into the regional meet had them in fourth (maybe third), but their times in the race today put them in second. Stay tuned, state meet is this Friday. Edited October 31, 2020 by NickPick'sCrew 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPick'sCrew Posted November 1, 2020 Report Share Posted November 1, 2020 Fun Fact. The state cross country Meet is held at the Michigan International Speedway. The course starts in the infield and goes just outside the premise, returning to finish down the homestretch just like the racecars. Parents of participants typically get a VIP box, but this year may be different. They broke the race into two section: All the first and second place teams from each region compete in the main race. The third place teams and any qualifying individual runners run in the second race. Because Nicholas and his team took second at regional, they get to race in the main event. I'll try to get a picture of him finishing down the home stretch. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickPickToo Posted November 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 Seeking Advice The wire harness has connections at the B pillars for dome light switches in the doors. I don't see that my car ever had door switches. I suspect the switch was a Special Deluxe feature where mine is a Deluxe? I think I should just wrap the ends and strand in place. Advice? The A pillars had a structural hard rubber to make them stronger. I crumbled the rubber on the diver side when I removed the wire harness during teardown. The passenger side looks like it would just crumble as well. Has anyone replaced this rubber and if so what material did you replace it with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 (edited) It looks like you are describing the upholstery tack strips material that was originally a fairly hard type of felt/layered tar paper type that the upholstery is stapled to. It almost always is bad and gets replaced with a hard rubber material. Readily available online or your upholsterer (you?) can replace. Enjoy, great to see your progress! DJ Edited November 5, 2020 by DJ194950 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam H P15 D30 Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 If the wires in you picture are for the dome light switch, you only need one wire. The switch should ground to the body when on. Dome lights usually are ground side switched Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted November 5, 2020 Report Share Posted November 5, 2020 1 hour ago, Adam H P15 D30 said: If the wires in you picture are for the dome light switch, you only need one wire. The switch should ground to the body when on. Dome lights usually are ground side switched Yes that is true but the overhead light also gets a full time hot from the dash area. forget exactly the source for it. Could that be the second wire? Wires should be held in place along their routing by insulated clips on the top edges- as seen in his pics. Stops vibrations rubbing through the wire insulation. DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.