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My First Car -- P15 1947 Plymouth Deluxe


NickPickToo
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I'm going to be running brake lines over the next few weeks and I was just curious about tubing diameters.  most of the brake lines on the original were 3/16 except the tubes that attached to the rear brakes were 1/4.  What was the engineering reason for this?

Edited by NickPickToo
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1 hour ago, NickPick'sCrew said:

Thanks for the suggestion.  Fortunately he still has the bolts from both front hubs.  PA, there is a robust tractor service network here.  BTW my four wheeled baby is a 1957 MF TE35 diesel version.

while cutting up lug bolts would work I personally would want something a little longer to get the wheel on and them make sure I could get it back off to replace with the regular lugbolt. That being said my truck has been without them for 19 years and I still haven't made myself a set of these. Everytime I take the wheels off I think I need to remember to do it though....

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On 9/28/2019 at 2:10 PM, Bobby said:

For whata it is worth,,,,

image1.jpeg.807048e95faf2c514f5ccedd4122549a.jpeg

 

Bobby,  I will be setting up a system identical to what you have here but I will be putting the proportioning valve on the frame next to the MC.  Could you tell me what size tubing you used throughout this set up.  MC to PV (Front and back), PV to rear axel tee, tee to rear brakes, PV to front brakes, etc...

Edited by NickPickToo
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Hey Nick-

I used 3/16" on front and back. A lot of the Hot Rodders love the Stainless brake line but I went with Copper/Zinc because it is WAY easier to work with and is much cheaper for the line and fittings

The Proportioning valve is AllStar (Michigan Company)

Summit Racing part Numbers below may help for the in-lines 2lbs in the front and 10lb for the drums in the back

AAF-ALL41040 COMBINATION VALVE DISC/DRUM B
(Review this product)
A Shipped on 12/20/2017 $74.99 1 $74.99 12/20/2017
 
WIL-260-13783 KIT RPV 2LB. INLINE BLUE W/FIT
(Review this product)
A Shipped on 12/20/2017 $19.78 2 $39.56 12/20/2017
 
WIL-260-13784 KIT RPV 10LB. INLINE RED W/FIT
(Review this product)
A Shipped on 12/20/2017 $19.78 1 $19.78 12/20/2017
Merchandise Total $134.33
 
Hope this helps!!!
 
Bob
 
 
 
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21 minutes ago, Bobby said:

 

WIL-260-13783 KIT RPV 2LB. INLINE BLUE W/FIT
(Review this product)
A Shipped on 12/20/2017 $19.78 2 $39.56 12/20/2017
 
WIL-260-13784 KIT RPV 10LB. INLINE RED W/FIT
(Review this product)
A Shipped on 12/20/2017 $19.78 1 $19.78 12/20/2017
Merchandise Total $134.33
 
 
 
 

Your using two residual valves, 10 and 2 lb.  How did you set these up? 

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1 hour ago, Los_Control said:

I am just stating my own experience, My first truck did have the pins, and it was a bit of a pain to get the small pin lined up with the hole and wheel over the hub.

This truck without the pins, you just need to line up one hole and get the bolt started, shove it on the hub and they all line up.

This could be because my center holes on the rims are the same size as the drums, they are self centering. If I had custom wheels with a larger center hole, still same procedure.

Start one lug and a little rotating the tire with your legs to start the second, Why I said it might take 10 seconds longer if searching for second hole.

 

The one bolt lined up with any hole on the drum is easier then searching for the pin and small hole on the wheel.  IMHO. When you try to spin the wheel to match the pin, the drum wants to spin also.

I just think the pins get in the way, more then they help .... I would only keep them because they are original.

 

I feel sorry for anyone changing a tire in the dark with rain and wind on the side of the road .... given the opportunity I would pull up diagonally behind them to run as block and then help with the tire change.  Hold a flashlight, or change the tire and have them hold the light.

 

 

Not everyone gets down and dirty in the mud and muck and wrestle a tire with their legs.    Really, just no reason for it.  Plymouth is not the only car in the world with lug bolts and granted probably one of a handful offering stock hanging stud for ease of mounting the wheel....I will follow the lead of many other car makers that use bolts and PROVIDE a hanging stud in their maintenance kit....granted....your average BMW, Mercedes and Porsche owners will call instead of changing their own tire but for certain, it is not a bother with the provided stud...

 

Ed...now is the time to go to the shop and knock these out....if not a knurled end at least cut a screw driver slot in them...you have been duly notified....

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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4 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

while looking about for a LH wheel bolt for Mopar may be a problem, I do think that IH had similar and may be available searching that venue....maybe they live in an active farm community and have a good surviving tractor repair facility...

I remember changing tires on these vehicles back when they (MoPars.  Never had anything else in our family growing up) all had these guide pins, and I would say that it is easier getting a wheel lined up on one of these than it is on one with lug studs, especially the alloy wheels that have such deep pockets where the lug nuts go. 

 

A few years back I saw a guy using  a trick I don't think we ever used - he had a flat bar, and used it as a lever to raise the wheel, so he didn't have to hold it up while attempting to align the holes with the studs. It is interesting that on a MoPar dummy spare I have that fits the 2nd through 4th gen minivans, they actually put in the hole for the guide pin.  

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many time the hole is in the position that would be the quide pin....but....not all are large enough of a hole to fit the guide....if you using one of these wheels as a spare...do verify the pin fit before you find out one night it just won't go on....yep....ran into that many years ago back fitting the wheels from a 72 Plymouth with said holes on my 52 Club Coupe

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20 minutes ago, Eneto-55 said:

A few years back I saw a guy using  a trick I don't think we ever used - he had a flat bar, and used it as a lever to raise the wheel,

This is used and needed to install semi truck tires. The same 3' long bars to change the tire on the wheel, used to lift them up onto the hub. You can stand on them to raise the tire, and have both hands free to manipulate.

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On 10/14/2019 at 6:15 PM, Los_Control said:

79512 is the zipcode, your grandparents look to be about 4 hours away. There are pipelines all over this area.

It's been a while but yes, they lived about 4 hours from anything as I remember.  Use to be only a few lines back then.  The switching station was out in the middle of nowhere and had the station building and two houses with two families assigned to run and maintain the station.   I hear now there are pipelines everywhere and no buildings -- everything is automated.  Use to be just beautiful landscape as far as the eyes can see. Attached painting is one my grandmother did in the mid 60's when she lived out that way.

 

 

DSC_8079.jpg

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Cleaned and broken down engine block.  I really would have liked to have done this myself, but Dad was worried that I'd get off to college with this in his garage so we called in the relief pitchers.  Thank you Adam's Engines in Howell.  This almost looks like a new block.

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50 minutes ago, NickPick'sCrew said:

Nicholas's School took first place at regionals today.  Nicholas also ran his personal best in the 5k.  17 minutes and 18 seconds  

 

Excellent!

 

That beats my best 5K time by about an hour.?

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On ‎10‎/‎14‎/‎2019 at 6:57 PM, NickPickToo said:

Your using two residual valves, 10 and 2 lb.  How did you set these up? 

I am set up Drum/Disk so I need to residual valves

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Carburetor Identification Hell-p.  I want to refurbish this carburetor and can't locate the identification number.  Its a Carter Ball & Ball 1-Barrel that came with my 1955 230 that came out of my 1947 Deluxe.  I found pat. no. and molding numbers, but nothing that looks like an identification number that matches up to the numbers everyone else is referencing.    I found this link to a 1964 - 1965 Mopar A/B body rebuilt carb which looks almost identical but I'm not sure.  If it is so, is that a good thing?  

 

https://www.classicindustries.com/product/mn2932.html

 

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Edited by NickPickToo
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I think I found it.  Another carb on eBay looks exactly the same except its really trashed and has the cast number 6-1456 on it which matches my carb.  The one on eBay has a part Id tag still attached 3094S which matches up to a rebuild kit with gaskets and parts the same as on my carb (CK74 from the carb doctor)

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Need some help understanding differences in these two exhaust manifolds:  The sand blasted one is from the '55 230 out of my '47 that I chipped slightly taking off.  The other one is a donation from a forum member.  The donated manifold seems beefier, but the attachment points to the engine are the same.  Also the one from my engine has a tube running through it and a nipple on the bottom as well (see red circle.  These were not attached to anything when I purchased the car and I do not see these in the parts or service manuals (but I don't have the '55 manuals).  Do any of you understand the why these are different and what the function was for the differences?  Also, which would you recommend would work best for a duel exhaust header modification?

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Edited by NickPickToo
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The bottom one in your photo is a P15 manifold, while the other is from later models, as you said.  The major difference, of course, is that the P15 exhaust pipe comes up farther back in the engine compartment.  (I also have a 230 from a 55 Plymouth, and before I realized that the manifold is different, I had already bead blasted & cad plated the one that came with the 55 engine that came with my car, but never installed.   I'm wondering about your head as well, as the 55 model had an electric temperature sender, and the hole in the head is smaller than the older style, which took the capillary bulb temp sender.  I have the late model head installed on my engine, also cad plated, and have not decided what I will do about the temperature gauge.)

Edited by Eneto-55
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Okay, between Eneto's comment and the comment below from the Forward Look, I think I figured it out. The tube is not functioning on my '47 unless I choose to add additional features that were from later years.   I like the heft of the older manifold.

 

Remember, even within the 218-230 family, the choke set up varied over the years. Some had linkage pull chokes on heat stoves, some used a heat tube from a chamber on the manifold, some were for hand chokes with no heat provision at all.  

 

Edited by NickPickToo
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This is what we came up with for Body to Frame brace repair.  This 2x1 rectangular tubing is a close match to the body side attachment brace.  We ripped one of the sides off the tube and drilled a 3/8 hole.  We found the rest of the hardware at the local True value and purchased the rubber from Steele Rubber.  Just need size up this bracket, make five more, put the body back in place, spot weld the attachments in place, take the body back off and then weld the attachments firmly in place.  Also used a little 90 weight to get the rubber and spacers to slide into place more easily.

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