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Radarsonwheels

512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

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I pulled the lockstrip half at a time and caulked the windshield gasket inside and out, then finished weatherstripping the doors and re-did the gaskets on the backs of the vent windows. 
 

Fingers crossed the next rain stays out of the truck!

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And more goodies in the mail!

 

My upholstered luon door cards are much thicker than the stock vinyl covered cardboard so I had to re-drill the square shafts a little farther out from the stock holes for the retaining pins. The driver’s side was a tight fit tapping the pin home which is a good thing right up until the original pin mushroomed bent and got stuck. I ended up using a little piece of drill bit stock to hold the other side but now it is a little angled and will never come off without destroying the crank handle.

 

So I ordered a new one. Soon the old one will get destroyed and I will do a ton of work to the door. I need to re-skin the bottom 1/2 of the door and bottom, make a rear lower window track to hold the (felt? Fabric?) channel that’s just hanging down right now, put in a new piece of glass (possibly an inch or two taller so it comes even with the sill at full down instead of dropping into the door).

 

And of course the crank pivot will probably need to be removed so I can drive out the remnants of pin and re-drill a properly sized hole dead straight on the drillpress. 
 

I want to replace the crunchy area in the hinge pillar with new steel- it looks like the actual hinge slips inside the pillar and the four bolt holes have a little room for adjustment as the bolts locate the hinge by pinching the pillar between the hinge inside and bolts/washers outside. 
 

I’m also considering cutting out an access panel to make welding in the glass track a little easier. Somewhere that it can get welded back together and the seam hidden by the door card. 
 

I’m probably going to end up just pulling the door off the truck to repair it. This might be a good time to invest in one of those fancy automotive painter’s padded scissor folding sawhorse stands.

 

I’d love to hear any helpful advice from you guys who have dove deep on door repair and replacement. Are new bushings and pins available like for 70s cars? 

72DCEA8E-FF85-4D18-AC78-44C360F5B00D.jpeg

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42 minutes ago, Radarsonwheels said:

And more goodies in the mail!

 

My upholstered luon door cards are much thicker than the stock vinyl covered cardboard so I had to re-drill the square shafts a little farther out from the stock holes for the retaining pins. The driver’s side was a tight fit tapping the pin home which is a good thing right up until the original pin mushroomed bent and got stuck. I ended up using a little piece of drill bit stock to hold the other side but now it is a little angled and will never come off without destroying the crank handle.

 

So I ordered a new one. Soon the old one will get destroyed and I will do a ton of work to the door. I need to re-skin the bottom 1/2 of the door and bottom, make a rear lower window track to hold the (felt? Fabric?) channel that’s just hanging down right now, put in a new piece of glass (possibly an inch or two taller so it comes even with the sill at full down instead of dropping into the door).

 

And of course the crank pivot will probably need to be removed so I can drive out the remnants of pin and re-drill a properly sized hole dead straight on the drillpress. 
 

I want to replace the crunchy area in the hinge pillar with new steel- it looks like the actual hinge slips inside the pillar and the four bolt holes have a little room for adjustment as the bolts locate the hinge by pinching the pillar between the hinge inside and bolts/washers outside. 
 

I’m also considering cutting out an access panel to make welding in the glass track a little easier. Somewhere that it can get welded back together and the seam hidden by the door card. 
 

I’m probably going to end up just pulling the door off the truck to repair it. This might be a good time to invest in one of those fancy automotive painter’s padded scissor folding sawhorse stands.

 

I’d love to hear any helpful advice from you guys who have dove deep on door repair and replacement. Are new bushings and pins available like for 70s cars? 

72DCEA8E-FF85-4D18-AC78-44C360F5B00D.jpeg

You are correct with how the door hinges go into the A-pillar, pulled both doors off by removing the bolts,  some love with a dead blow was required to get the hinge to pop free from the pillar on 3 hinges for me. 

 

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1 hour ago, Radarsonwheels said:

I want to replace the crunchy area in the hinge pillar with new steel- it looks like the actual hinge slips inside the pillar and the four bolt holes have a little room for adjustment as the bolts locate the hinge by pinching the pillar between the hinge inside and bolts/washers outside.

DON"T pull a Los_Control!  :D

I pulled my doors by removing the bolts on the hinges, and slid them out. Pretty simple.

When I went to put the doors back on, one of the movable plates with the threaded holes, drop down into the door pillar.

Still not sure how to retrieve it back out of there. I bought a strong telescopic magnet to try and fish it out, no luck yet.

I still need to pull the doors back off 1 more time so at that time will spend more effort to retrieve it.

 

Next time, I think I will try some way to secure the plate while the doors are off, they need to move, is how you adjust the doors.

I am considering some clear painters caulk, remove 1 bolt and use the caulk to glue the plate temporarily, and easy to remove when installing the doors again.

Curious to hear what others have done to prevent the plates from dropping, how they get them back if they do drop.

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You need a strategically hooked piece of thick bailing wire and A lot of patience! Thanks for the warning though! 
 

I might have a window cut in the pillar at first but re-assembly could be tricky. I’ll be careful for sure

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1 hour ago, Radarsonwheels said:

You need a strategically hooked piece of thick bailing wire and A lot of patience! Thanks for the warning though! 
 

I might have a window cut in the pillar at first but re-assembly could be tricky. I’ll be careful for sure

 

make an arcade game out of it at the local fair!  Solve your problem AND make money!  :)

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We had some torrential downpours lately which is great for me! The windshield is totally sealed up now which makes me very happy and I still haven’t gotten used to the new crystal clear wide and tall viewing area. It’s like driving in HD after a being used to 90s broadcast tv quality screen. 
 

The door weatherstrip is keeping H2o at bay nicely and the cowl including wiper pivots is successfully sealed as well. The passenger side is now dry as a bone. I squeezed some kneadable gray indoor outdoor window caulk inbetween the wires where my harness passes thru a rubber grommet in the firewall and that stopped letting water in that gets in the engine bay thru the louvers. The underhood wiring is all weatherpack connectors so no problems there. 
 

The driver’s side of the cab is still leaking. Somewhere around the top hinge bolts or the area where the skin wraps around the A pillar is letting in some water that sits on the shelf above the kick panel area and the nook inside the A pillar. Gonna keep after it with seam sealer until it stops and do some repairs when I dig into making the pillar and hinges more solid later (structural metal work).

 

In the meantime it is warm enough in there to cruise whenever I want. I’m driving her once or twice a week lately. I need to get after resto-modding the heater and hooking up the defrost vent hoses so that I won’t need a windshield fog wiping towel in cold weather. No big deal though. 
 

Here’s a video of my drive to work in the rain this morning. Play it thru a tablet or computer speakers for full effect of the big block!

 

 

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Hi Dogedood

 

It’s a comp hydraulic flat tappet xtreme energy .507”/.510” lift, 240°/246° @.050

 

I have 3.21 sure grip so I’m looking for torque not revving for HP. The 512 motor soaks up a bunch of duration making the cam seem milder, also I’m running ‘stealth’ heads unported so with my inches I would need max wedge ports to be able to make high rpm power. 
 

I bought cheap secondhand mufflers. They are rediculous but for $75 I’m good. Might put some quieter ones on at some point but you can have a conversation in the truck now and it’s a hotrod with no radio...

 

Actually these are all excuses because my mufflers are silly. I have small tube block hugger headers that are probably barely better than manifolds (but fit!). They have 3” collector flanges. From there I have 3” downpipes that neck up to 3.5” pipe then into dual 3.5” flowmaster 40 mufflers. No crossover. The mufflers have scooped angled 3.5”  tips that aim the exhaust at the tires in case I want to do a billowing burnout, which I’m definitely not in a hurry to do since I bought expensive dot drag radials!

 

 

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Howdy folks!

 

It’s been a little while- I got busy building a 1952 harley panhead chopper and doing maintenance on a low mile (16k!) 1986 softail I got in a trade so I’d have a 2 seater for date nites.

 

Anyway I’ve been enjoying the truck, driving it a couple times a week and doing truck things moving bass guitar equipment and the occasional couch or dump run.

 

A couple (few?!) weeks ago it started hesitating bad off idle with a lean spike and I was super happy just to get home through medium heavy traffic in time to switch to a car so I could pick my kid up from school.

 

The EFI can be a little complex with sensors and computers but I installed a pressure gauge on the fuel line- always check the dumb stuff first! After limping home I opened the hood and checked it- it’s supposed to be a solid 59.5ish psi with a high pressure pump feeding the throttle body & injectors and an internal bypass regulator bleeding off any extra volume and pressure. It always ran at 72 which is high but seemed to work just fine. 
 

Well it was swinging from 40-80psi. I suspected the pump was going bad but then it would be low pressure not wildly fluctuating pressure. 
 

The sniper throttle body has three possible fuel inputs and one regulated return output so for boosted applications you can plug the stock return and run a full pressure return to a boost referenced external fuel pressure regulator from an alternate input bung. 
 

So that’s what I did except no need to boost reference it on a NA application. I plumbed in an aeromotive 30-70psi adjustable external regulator and set it to 60 psi with the return thru a hose into a gas jug. The motor ran great and there was a LOT of gas steadily coming out of the return at idle. Healthy pump. 
 

I always suspected my high operating pressure was from a restricted return line- I have two 3/8” return lines teed into the 1/2” return bung in my fuel cell and one is for circulating fuel through my .4 gallon surge tank which is fed by a 6psi high volume carter lift pump. Makes sure the inline high pressure pump never sees air when fuel hets low and sloshes around. Well when I plugged the EFI return into my hardline on the firewall that goes to the tee the pressure was still a rock solid 62psi. 
 

So either the aeromotive FPR tolerated a restriction better than the holley FPR or the holley reg was not right out of the box. It did give a good six months of service before really malfunctioning though. In a super hot engine bay before I did the louvers too. 
 

Sorry for my tale of EFI troubleshooting and drag racing parts on the ‘ol iron forum but that’s all that’s goin on with the bigblock C series these days. Hoping to get in some more cruises soon, unfortunately with a pack of nitrile gloves for touching gas pumps and grocery carts...

 

I know we skew a little older around here I hope everybody is being safe, enjoying their families, and not in financial ruin. 
 

There’s no corona virus in your trucks- grab some rubber gloves or hand sanitizer for gas stops and go make people smile and wave!!

A07F6393-15AB-4649-AB6F-23181EE0D076.jpeg

Edited by Radarsonwheels

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Finally got to test out the new FPR with a trip to the grocery store. It started well then once it warmed up it started hesitating off idle and running really lean in general. I could hear the fuel pump dying from the driver’s seat and after I drove back home behind the world’s slowest idiot I barely got in the driveway it was running so bad.

 

OK so looks like the fuel pump was going bad too. No problem I bought one of those! It’s supposed to rain tomorrow and all weekend so when I found myself up way way past my bedtime and restless I figured the smart thing to do was go roll around in my driveway while it’s still dry.

 

I got the new pump installed and cycled it a few times to hopefully bleed out any air. She’s way too loud to fire up at two AM so maybe in the next couple days I’ll get to find out if that fixed it. 

14C865BE-81B7-4579-B5E7-A15B18193BED.jpeg

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When I was retrofitting my old 74 Argosy motorhome with a new 454 and TBI I had a brand new out of the box distributor that had issues.  I had my new engine on a test stand and was doing some testing and the engine would run pretty good up to about 2000 and then there would be a distinctive hesitation and then it would run ok again above about 2400.   I had my laptop connected to the PCM and had real time graphs on the screen.  The 2000 to 2400 lines were pretty bad.  After thinking about it I swapped out the ignition module inside the distributor and that solved the problem.

 

I guess what I'm trying to say is don't discount the thought that it could be an electrical issue.  I originally had thought it might be a fuel problem as well.  

 

Good luck!

 

Brad

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Thanks Brad

 

I gotta solve the fuel pressure issue first which is purely mechanical. Hopefully then it’ll be ok. Drove great yesterday before the pump started failing again. 

 

The pumps are on a relay controlled by the ECU but it is not pulse width modulated just on/off. It has a prime cycle when you switch it on, then constant on once the motor is running. 
 

If the pump swap doesn’t cure it I will go back over the harness for sure.

 

 

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Well the truck seems to like the new high volume/pressure fuel pump. 
 

I re-flashed the last solid tune to the ECU and it probably has some learning to do before I can lock down the learn table and limit closed loop fuel adjustment based on the O2 sensor. It was also another crappy rainy day so that affects traction and visibility. Hopefully more joyrides soon.
 

But things are looking up. 

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