'50 Dodge B-2 Series Stepside Truck Repairs

[kencombs]

Hate to say this, but you will probably need a real hub puller.  Normal gear pullers just aren't up to the task. 

Like this one:

 

Heavily made and the striking wrench makes it work

 

An alternative, that I really don't like but has been done, is to loosen the axle nut a turn or so, and drive the truck slowly making lots of turns until it pops loose. 

[ggdad1951]

1 hour ago, Andrew50 said:

The rear drum removal is being stubborn.  Ideas?  This is the passenger side. Have not yet tried the driver's side.

 

 

 

heat and or a coupla wacks from a deadblow?

[Andrew50]

Already wacked it a few times.  I'll see about getting the proper puller.

[Dodgeb4ya]

Yep..

You will need a 'Real" professional brake drum puller.

Edited June 6, 2018 by Dodgeb4ya

[P15-D24]

2 hours ago, Andrew50 said:

The rear drum removal is being stubborn.  Ideas?  This is the passenger side. Have not yet tried the driver's side.

 

 

 

Read this first:   http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/brakes.html/

[ggdad1951]

1 hour ago, Andrew50 said:

Already wacked it a few times.  I'll see about getting the proper puller.

 

did you make the adapter?

 

I would not know as 1 ton's have a different rear axle set up.

[Andrew50]

I had that 5" disc in the scrap bin and tried to make it work with my gear puller.  But it disappointed me.  So today I ordered one of these using eBay's 20% off discount.  Hope it will be beefy enough.  Because the wheel cylinders are leaking the hubs have to come off.

 

Thanks for that link with the brake repair details.  

 

 

[FlashBuddy]

Looks like a nice kit. I think I paid about the same and didn’t get the handy carrying case.

[Andrew50]

Well today I received the drum puller kit.  This thing is robust with a large diameter fine thread screw.  But it was advertised for "up to" a 7.5" bolt circle but unfortunately it won't go down to this Dodge bolt circle.  ?   So now I have spent $46 and waited for 3 days for a puller that won't meet my needs.

 

What's next?

Edited July 15, 2018 by Andrew50

[JBNeal]

You may have to loosen the lug bolts to allow the legs to center the puller on the axle shaft...with your brake shoes adjusted to not contact the drum, the puller is only popping the hub off of the tapered shaft...with each strike of a hammer onto the wrench arm, more stress is built up in the puller threads, and once the corresponding frictional force in the threads exceeds the wedge force of the hub and tapered axle, POP goes the weasel...there will be an audible pop as the stress is released at the taper.

 

Ideally, the legs would be clamped squarely onto the hub, but since this is a universal puller, you will have to make it work with the knowledge that as long as the puller thread is centered and coaxial to the axle shaft, then the legs will be pulling the lug bolts in tension equally, so no shear force is applied on the lug bolts.  These lug bolts are designed to take a lot of tensile force so the threads will lock on the hubs.  When there is little tensile force and high shear (as in loose lug bolts while driving), then the bolts will snap off.  Once the hub pops loose, the drum and hub should just slide off of the shaft.

 

One of the issues in popping the taper apart is to break any corrosion loose...there is not a lot there because there isn't much room for it, but it can be significant in trying to remove the hub.  To address this, a very thin layer of grease or anti-seize compound can be applied to the axle taper and hub bore when re-installing the hub.  I applied a thin layer of yellow axle grease to the taper on my drums, checked the brakes 10 years later by putting 2 half-inch X 8" flat steel bars on the hub with the lug bolts, and the hub popped right off of the taper after alternating two blows on each bar from behind...that tool that I found in an old auto parts store years before wasn't needed

[Plymouthy Adams]

looks to be the spitting image of the very puller I have and at the same price I had paid for mine.  Rest assured it will do the job, careful centering and staying equal on the three attaching lugs is key to even pressure and effective action of the tool.  I have pulled a number of rear hubs with mine and will use it again in the next few days.....I think you should try again....you may also try some of the local big box parts stores that have loaner tools for the customer, they may have a similar model that you may find easier to use.

 

Do you have a avid Volvo mechanic or shop in your area, they utilized a disc style puller with a 5 bolt contact plate and the Volvo has the same bolt pattern as the Mopar....

Edited June 9, 2018 by Plymouthy Adams

[Andrew50]

Well I tried it again and it remains a no-go.  In our little town we have no Volvo dealer, just a few major brand dealers.  There is a small shop across town that specializes in BMW, Mercedes and Volvo and maybe I could check with them.

 

However, in looking at this design, I think I can grind a little clearance without affecting the structural integrity and allow usage on this bolt pattern.  If I relieve where I have the line drawn by ~ 1/8" on each leg it may work.

 

Update:  I did grind a little relief into each arm and now this fits the Dodge bolt pattern.  I mounted it and bottomed out the impact wrench then have been flailing with a ball peen hammer.  Still won't budge.  In the link above I read about releasing the shoes with the 3/4" bolts in the back but this already turns easily with minimal drag.   Maybe there is a ridge from brake wear keeping the drum from sliding over the shoes. 

 

Edited June 9, 2018 by Andrew50

[Reg Evans]

What happens if you flip the center doughnut over ?

[FlashBuddy]

I thought the same as you on my first go around; too small for my bolt circle.  By leaving the bolts loosey goosed I got it on and situated, then tightenened things down and began banging away... POP! 

[Andrew50]

8 minutes ago, Reg Evans said:

What happens if you flip the center doughnut over ?

No difference.  The diameters on either side are the same.

[JBNeal]

I had stuck hubs, gears, etc that required the puller to be torqued, rapping the hub carefully in a star pattern (to introduce a vibration) then torquing again, then walking away for several hours (basically overnight) before repeating the torque-rap-torque sequence...I recall a stubborn tractor hub that took 3 days to finally pop loose...so maybe ya might want to take a break before ya get carried away and give it some time to stew under tension

[P15-D24]

You need to back off both the major and minor adjusters. Worse case, remove the anchor bolts, drive the bolt in so the show pop off the anchor bolt shoulder. That way the shoes are no longer an issue. 

[austinsailor]

If the drum turns, as he mentions several posts back, shoes are not the issue.

[P15-D24]

4 hours ago, Andrew50 said:

I read about releasing the shoes with the 3/4" bolts in the back but this already turns easily with minimal drag.

I read that as the shoes were still engaging the drum and if the drum was scored it would still hang on the shoe.  If both adjusters are backed off and the shoes clear the drum it should pop  right off. Otherwise instead of beating it to death, pull the anchor bolts and you can be sure the shoes aren't the issue. 

[Andrew50]

2 hours ago, austinsailor said:

If the drum turns, as he mentions several posts back, shoes are not the issue.

The drum does still turn even when applying the hammer.

38 minutes ago, P15-D24 said:

I read that as the shoes were still engaging the drum and if the drum was scored it would still hang on the shoe.  If both adjusters are backed off and the shoes clear the drum it should pop  right off. Otherwise instead of beating it to death, pull the anchor bolts and you can be sure the shoes aren't the issue. 

True, it could be hanging on a scored shoulder or the shoes might be tilting when pulled.  It is probably a good idea to release the pressure and then back off on the adjustors as suggested, then pull on it again.  However I'm going out of town in the morning so any more progress will have to wait until my return next week.  I'll leave the pressure applied and if I am lucky (doubtful) it will have popped lose upon my return.

Thanks for your help.

Edited June 9, 2018 by Andrew50

[austinsailor]

If the shoes were holding it, especially if it turns, it would have already given a big "bang" and be at least a little bit wobbly on the axle. When this happens, and it does for various reasons, you'll be pulling on the springs that mount the shoes. It'll pull out just a bit and then spring back, but at least be slightly loose on the axle shaft.

 

ok, I'm on the side now and will just listen. 

Edited June 10, 2018 by austinsailor

[Jerry Roberts]

8 hours ago, Andrew50 said:

... then have been flailing with a ball peen hammer.  Still won't budge.  ...

You need a BIG heavy hammer . 

[FlashBuddy]

I used a five pound sledge hammer. I thought my puller was going to explode, then POP!

[P15-D24]

If you have one my favorite weapon of choice is a pneumatic air gun.  Between the torque and vibration from the gun action they come off in seconds. Otherwise a 5 pounder is a good choice. 

[ggdad1951]

I hear ya..the flywheel on my 4 wheeler would NOT come off, I eventually gave up and figured I'd take it in to the local shop where if they break it I won't pay for it.