Jump to content

Question? Brake shoe thickness and brake fluid in wheel cylinder


JIPJOBXX

Recommended Posts

This is just a simple question? By adding new brake material to exsisting shoes and adding thickness will this mean the stroke on the wheel cylinder will not haft to travel as far.  This old brake maste r cyclinder setups do not give very much tolerance for piston travel and so I would I would think it would help by having less travel.  Please no sarcastic remarks I just want an answer.  Jon

Link to comment
Share on other sites

31 minutes ago, JIPJOBXX said:

This is just a simple question? By adding new brake material to exsisting shoes and adding thickness will this mean the stroke on the wheel cylinder will not haft to travel as far.  This old brake maste r cyclinder setups do not give very much tolerance for piston travel and so I would I would think it would help by having less travel.  Please no sarcastic remarks I just want an answer.  Jon

Well yes less travel in entire brake system.

More brake shoe lining ( thickness) the wheel cyls travel a less distance as adjuster are backed off too. 

Master cylinder pushrod and piston less travel.

Again this is tru if brake system are bled and adjusted correctly.

Now if bled okay but not adjusted well more pedal travel.

With these brake systems good linings adjustments and arc allow a good brake pedal.

Why do you ask " grass hopper" ?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seems to me that if the brakes were correctly adjusted the clearance between the shoe lining and drum surface would be the same regardless of lining thickness. The stroke of the wheel cylinder would be the same but the cup would be further toward the outside of the cylinder..

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, MackTheFinger said:

Seems to me that if the brakes were correctly adjusted the clearance between the shoe lining and drum surface would be the same regardless of lining thickness. The stroke of the wheel cylinder would be the same but the cup would be further toward the outside of the cylinder..

Tru enough on a modern vehicle as pads where master cyl fluid level drops, as calipre pistons are farther out to compensate for wear.

Now on lockheed style brakes as shoe lining wears and adjustment corresponds to compensate perhaps wheel cyl pistons do not travel further as the shoes are moved closer to drum contact.

Take off your drums and press the brake pedal oh it will be real obvious that the wheel cyl push pins and piston will move a lot more...lol

Edited by 55 Fargo Spitfire
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, 55 Fargo Spitfire said:

Tru enough on a modern vehicle as pads where master cyl fluid level drops, as calipre pistons are farther out to compensate for wear.

Now on lockheed style brakes as shoe lining wears and adjustment corresponds to compensate perhaps wheel cyl pistons do not travel further as the shoes are moved closer to drum contact.

Take off your drums and press the brake pedal oh it will be real obvious that the wheel cyl push pins and piston will move a lot more...lol

 

Mebbe so.. I've had plenty of drum brake cars but my experience with Lockheed brakes is minimal. I spent about a half a day unsuccessfully bleeding the brakes on my P15 yesterday and I'm not in a hurry to look at brakes at the moment.. Good thing I have a job to goof off at for a few days.. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

35 minutes ago, MackTheFinger said:

 

Mebbe so.. I've had plenty of drum brake cars but my experience with Lockheed brakes is minimal. I spent about a half a day unsuccessfully bleeding the brakes on my P15 yesterday and I'm not in a hurry to look at brakes at the moment.. Good thing I have a job to goof off at for a few days.. :D

Well get a helper and follow the " bleeding sequence", once bled if pedal is still low the more adjustment is needed usually.

Are you using DOT5?

Did you bench bleed MC before installing it sure helps?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This has been an on going problem and I have the Lockheed brake adjusting tool and know how to use it.  I have replaced all the wheel cylinders and installed a new master cyclinder with a stainless steel sleeve.  Even replaced all the brake lines but After I do a bleeding properly the brak s work fine until I drive the car.  The front right brake has a strange noise as if the shoes were we’re pushing out the backing plate.  Like I said befor I can adjust the brakes an I get great pedal action right at the top and the brakes work perfect going in reverse .  But as soon as I go forward the pedal will get soft after a few stops.  This is why I’m going to get the front right shoes reclined with a thicker shoe material.  Years ago when I started this brake overhaul they worked fairly well but I thought I was going to pull a trailer and needed new brakes!  The breake shoes were arced in but I wish I would have kept the old ones but didn’t.  We’ll end of story!  Going to a car show tomorrow with the soft breaks but this coming week I’m going to take the right shoes oft and send them oft to be relined. with a thicker shoe material.  Oh yes I also installnew brake springs! 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jipjobxx:  After adjusting and using the Ammco Brake gage 1750  you still need to do a minor adjustment on the braskes. A minor brake adjustment is done by using the upper cam to lock the brake shoe against the drum. You need to do this for each individual shoe one at a time. After the drum is locked then backoff the cam so that the wheel has a slight drag on that shoe. then go to the back shoe on the drum and do the same.  You will need to do this for all of the shoes.  This sets the shoes up anlso press you brake pedal after doing each drum to get the shoe set.  Let me know how this works for you.  Do not put on a thicker linign that is not the issue correc the issue with this technique and get back to us on what happens.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, 55 Fargo Spitfire said:

Well get a helper and follow the " bleeding sequence", once bled if pedal is still low the more adjustment is needed usually.

Are you using DOT5?

Did you bench bleed MC before installing it sure helps?

 

Everything's set up right it just turned out there was a pinhole leak in one of the metal lines.. Took a LOT of crawling.. Did I mention it was my 44th wedding anniversary and a "Sunday Morning Coming Down" to boot ,, and that there was a lot of crawling involved,,, on many levels???  :D

 

Edit to add...

Really it wasn't a half day bleeding,, part of that was teardown, installing new wheel cylinders, shoes, and rubber lines.. there was breakfast involved, "And no way to hold my head that didn't hurt.." Not bad for an old guy, I thought... Until today, anyway... 

Edited by MackTheFinger
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use