Another 230 build thread

[Merle Coggins]

51011 is the sock type that wouldn’t be correct for that canister. Try the Wix 51006, 51100, or 57366. They are all slightly different sizes but all have the inner shaft seal, from what I can see. I was just cross referencing numbers that I found on vintage filter cartridges shown on eBay. You’ll have to compare measurements listed to the measurements of your canister. I’m sure there are others of that style in different sizes but I don’t have a full catalog, or time to research it further at this time. 

[tom'sB2B]

I just realized that I have the old filter. I wonder if I can cross refrence this guy?

[tom'sB2B]

Maybe a Baldwin p41?

[Merle Coggins]

I don’t have my notes with me today but that may have been one of the ones I came across last night. I crossed the ones I found on eBay to Baldwin’s, because their cross reference tool works better for that. Then I crossed the Baldwin filter numbers to Wix since that’s what you were using. The Baldwin P41 crosses to Wix 51006. 

 

Compare the listed dimensions in the Baldwin, or WIx, catalog to your old Hastings filter to be sure. 

Edited September 14, 2018 by Merle Coggins

[Merle Coggins]

Don’t forget to measure, and compare, the cover gasket size too. 

[Merle Coggins]

Killing a little time this morning... I found a vintage Hastings #101 on eBay and the back of the box showed that it was a replacement for a Fram C4 or C4P2. Also listed a couple of Ford numbers. The Fram C4 crosses to Baldwin's P41, and Wix 51006 (Napa 1006). And if you have a Hastings dealer near you the newer version is LF101, which is basically the same as the Baldwin P41 as they are sort of sister companies. (Baldwin bought Hastings)

 

The Baldwin P41 and Wix 51006 show slightly different size dimensions, most notably the inner diameter, but it looks like one of those will work for you. I prefer Baldwin filters when available.

 

[bigdaisy19k]

Hastings still makes filters if that helps.

[tom'sB2B]

I ordered the wix and Baldwin. I will report back later.

[Pete]

HI all,

 

After owning my '39 Plymouth for a couple of years, I recently removed and cleaned the filter canister. After cleaning off the exterior grunge I noticed a faint stamping on the side that said "inlet." It had the pressure side plumbed to the canister outlet and vice versa. It had probably run that way for years. The oil always seemed to look dirty much sooner than it should have and there was a bunch of sludge in the bottom of the canister. I replumbed it correctly, but in a new filter element, and changed the oil. Just returned from a multi-hundred mile trip to Maine. Used about 3 ounces of oil and it still looks new on the dipstick.

 

Pete

 

Edited September 17, 2018 by Pete

[tom'sB2B]

I bought both Baldwin and wix filters. The only difference is the beefier rubber gasket for the center hole. Though the Baldwin comes with a paper style gasket for the canister lid and the wix comes with two different sized rubber gaskets. I will use the Baldwin for my first oil change and in the future I will go with the wix for convienance ( I can get the wix at my local parts store)

[tom'sB2B]

Decided to go with Royall Purple break in oil. Submerged the new oil pump in oil then spun it up using my drill. Filled engine with oil and got oil pressure up to about 47-48psi using my modified oil pump and drill

[tom'sB2B]

[Plymouthy Adams]

7 minutes ago, tom'sB2B said:

 

so you have to remove the pump again and install the drive gear..

[tom'sB2B]

Two pumps. I’ll seal in the new one when I’m ready to fire it up

[Plymouthy Adams]

I was first thinking you had two pumps but was still unsure......have seen the ground off gear teeth before.....thanks for the posting...

[tom'sB2B]

Quick update. After several knuckle headed mistakes with the timing and getting it hotwired. I finally got it running. I only ran it for a couple minutes. I got good oil pressure (40psi). It’s loud as hell with just open headers. My plan is to run it at high idle for around 20 min to break in the cam a little bit. In the meantime I’ve been working to get the front clip ready to put back on. It quickly turns into a larger project:

rewiring headlights, horn

painting inner fender wells

etc 

idles better after adjusting throttle linkage

will post another video once I get it running a little better.

[Dodgeb4ya]

With a new cam you really should attemp to get the RPM's up to around 1500-2000 RPM almost imediately to provide proper cam break in.

Timing needs to be set real close... definately not over advanced, check leaks and get it up to normal temp during break in..

I'll admit these flat heads have wimpy valve spring pressure but it's still good to know the cam was broke in correctly...just sayin...?

The engine sounds good though.

[tom'sB2B]

11 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

With a new cam you really should attemp to get the RPM's up to around 1500-2000 RPM almost imediately to provide proper cam break in.

Timing needs to be set real close... definately not over advanced, check leaks and get it up to normal temp during break in..

I'll admit these flat heads have wimpy valve spring pressure but it's still good to know the cam was broke in correctly...just sayin...?

The engine sounds good though.

Thanks for the tip. How long do think I should keep it running at 1500-2000RPM?

[Dodgeb4ya]

20 minutes  watch for leaks,  oil pressure temp etc..make sure timing is in spec and if all is ok... drive it like it running great.

[tom'sB2B]

I made a few major mistakes today while trying to run my engine which caused some damage... not sure how much.

Tried to run my engine today to do a break in. When I started it, the engine went from zero to wide open and I heard a terrible banging. I frantically tried to push the throttle back and then yanked the coil wire

But in less than a minute the damage was done.

Mistake #1. The throw out bearing was dangling by its fork in the bell housing. I have not yet put the transmission in and I do not have a bracket or spring ( I still need to fabricate the bracket). The bearing and fork got caught and chewed up by the spinning clutch assembly.. the banging sound.

Mistake #2. I have yet to find the right sized linkage arm to complete the throttle linkage, causing the engine to run wide open.

So, not sure how much internal damage I did in addition to the throw-out bearing.

Started engine again and ran it for about 10 min. Still has about 50lbs oil pressure and a low but steady vacuum pressure (16lbs)

Ugh!

[tom'sB2B]

Damage done. I got a bearing and sleeve from Bernbaum. The search is on for a clutch fork.

[Don Coatney]

I found a NOS fork on eBay several years ago.

 

 

 

You will also need these two springs.

 

 

 

 

[Harvie]

Hello Tom - very sorry to read of this set back. Were you able to replace the damaged parts? If you are having difficulty locating any parts then please let me know and I will see what we can find up here. 

[tom'sB2B]

Thanks Harvie for checking in.

I haven’t  been keeping up with this thread, but I’ve been slowly working away, getting this car back together

I found a fork at obsolete mopar parts and the bearing and sleeve from Bernbaums

The sleeve is a little shorter than the original, but I think it should work by adjusting the linkage. The car is almost back together. Since the car was apart, I decided to rewire everything which has taken some time.I’m almost to the point of getting it towed to the exhaust guy. Stay tuned.

[DJ194950]

Just my opinion but I would make every effort to find the correct length of throw out  bearing sleeve before install. At lot of work to just try.

I think there is a good chance that you will Not have enough adjustment to make the new shorter one work!

 

DJ