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Posted

That engine shield "V" slot mounts between the bell housing and top of the passenger side motor mount.Push it in between the Bell Housing  and motor mount ....push it tight to the motor mount through bolt.The forward bracket bolts to the lower cover of the fluid drive bell housing.

The other screw hole never seen that hole. cannot advise on what it's for.

Here's a picture of a 1948 Chrysler

C39 3 pass Cpe resto Blakes.JPG

  • Thanks 1
Posted

A. Where did you find a heat/dust shield that looks brand new? B. What kind of camera are you using, the pictures are so clear it looks like Im standing there in person.

Posted
1 hour ago, dodgeguy said:

A. Where did you find a heat/dust shield that looks brand new? B. What kind of camera are you using, the pictures are so clear it looks like Im standing there in person.

Nothing fancy dodgeguy. I cleaned the heat shield up and put a couple coats of rustolium gloss black on it. The 1/4 inch of grease I removed was probably protecting it. I have a iPhone 6S. Removing the “live” option from the photos I take allow me to post on the forum.

Posted (edited)

It’s been slow going lately. Seems like I have to do everything 3 times before I get it correct. Clutch linkage is back together. Plummed new front break lines, vacuum advance and half of the oil filter canister.

Anyone have an objection to running 3/16 line to the oil filter? Fittings seem to call for it.

BTW. It took me for ever to figure out that you can’t run straight tubing to the block, oil canister or the vacuum advance. You need a fitting in between to seat the tubing. Rookie mistakes galore.

F34970E4-C6A4-4468-9C95-F7A5E55B1670.jpeg

361C6646-A120-4577-B0FF-87B1F24C7AF5.jpeg

Edited by tom'sB2B
Posted

Looking good.  

 

Make sure you have that filter canister plumbed correctly.   I’m no expert, and I don’t run one, but I think you have the return hooked up to the oil galley main.   See if it shouldn’t go to the vertical hole by the oil pressure relief valve...   Hopefully a resident expert will chime in and correct me if I’m wrong.  

 

Would think the oil will dump in the top and run out the bottom....

Posted (edited)
51 minutes ago, thebeebe5 said:

Make sure you have that filter canister plumbed correctly.   I’m no expert, and I don’t run one, but I think you have the return hooked up to the oil galley main.   See if it shouldn’t go to the vertical hole by the oil pressure relief valve...   Hopefully a resident expert will chime in and correct me if I’m wrong.  

Yes. Maybe someone can explain which way is correct. Looking up photos. I’ve found them plumbed both ways. Don’t know which is correct. 

15259C5C-E449-432A-A551-9F3215BB787D.jpeg

DA5ECD23-24CC-4EA8-91BA-6E1D4D21E0C4.jpeg

BE83F051-0761-4B11-81DA-7B682D3ADC46.jpeg

Edited by tom'sB2B
Posted

It depends on the type of filter canister. Some feed from the outside and return through the middle/bottom. Others feed from the bottom middle and return out the top/side.

Mine is a Deluxe Filter Company filter with the T-handle nut, similar to what is shown in Tom's 1st and 3rd picture. It uses the sock type filter and feed into the center tube via the bottom center connection. The oil then migrates through the sock filter media and pools in a space under the cover where it flows out the return port back to the sump.

Others use a different type of cartridge that filters from outside-in. Those would have the feed on the outside of the canister and drain/return from the center bottom port.

 

There may be markings next to the ports to identify which is which. Or the filter design internally would dictate which is correct for your filter.

Posted
3 minutes ago, tom'sB2B said:

I just noticed the explaination on the last photo. So it should be the opposite of what is shown in photo 3

 

The explanation is wrong. The filter canister is plumbed correctly, based on that style.

  • Like 1
Posted

Based on the style of filter canister you have I would say that your feed line is plumbed correctly. Is there another port on the very bottom of can? That would go back to the lower port on the block, next to the pressure relief valve.

Posted
10 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

Is there another port on the very bottom of can? That would go back to the lower port on the block, next to the pressure relief valve.

Yes. I haven’t plummed it yet. Need some fittings. I will post some photos of the interior of the can when I get home. Thank you.

Posted

it as pictured in photo 1&2  the system appears to be the basic by pass filter and not the full flow style...thus from the oil galley to the top of the filter with the return going back to the oil relief port as shown in photo 2...photo 1 is incorrect per the manual and explanation of system.

Posted

Tim, if you are refering to these 2 pictures, posted earlier, than both are plumbed correctly as far as I'm concerned. These appear to be the HD bypass filter made by the Deluxe Filter Company. It's what I have on my truck and the upper port is clearly marked OUT and the bottom one is marked IN.

15259C5C-E449-432A-A551-9F3215BB787D.jpeg

BE83F051-0761-4B11-81DA-7B682D3ADC46.jpeg

 

Internally it looks like this... The oil feeds into the center tube, which is blocked at the top by the cover bolt. There are a couple of holes in the side of the center tube that get the oil out into the sock type filter element. The oil migrates through the filter media and collects above the perforated dome where it reaches the Outlet port and flows back to the sump.

PA090534.JPG.96661a49afee437c6a5da0538fbb0c1d.JPG

Posted (edited)

This picture is a standard filter, probably made by Fram or Purolator. It would also be plumbed correctly. It likely uses a pleated paper element that would filter from the outside-in, thus the feed on the side of the canister and the drain/return out the bottom center.

DA5ECD23-24CC-4EA8-91BA-6E1D4D21E0C4.jpeg

 

And this one, which I believe is Tom's engine, would also be that type of filter.

F34970E4-C6A4-4468-9C95-F7A5E55B1670.jpeg

Edited by Merle Coggins
Posted

thanks Merle, my view was based on the very book and the factory supplied filter as shown...and as you show there are different aftermarket or supplied containers...I can clearly see how you follow the instructions supplier by the manufacturer...sorry...seems I confused this for other folks...but with the BY PASS, the deal is yet to take from the galley supply to the MARKED INLET on the housing and the MARKED OUTLET of the housing to the relieve valve port. 

Posted

Let me make this topic as tedious as possible

The oil will exit the oil bearing passage

(photo 1)

Enter the canister (photo 2)

Poor into the canister (photo 3)

Somehow get filtered (photo 4)

Exit the bottom of the canister (photo 5)

Enter the main oil gallery (photo 6)

C6A089B2-1FF7-44D6-AF56-35B33AEAFDE1.jpeg

6732B5E3-5AA5-4A24-BDFC-9A464CB0309A.jpeg

D8EE68FC-852B-4922-8E41-4DA6F1003D41.jpeg

73A2907A-BEE0-429B-B3E0-872AD01AFD66.jpeg

B146D421-281C-468E-8714-27CC4C54B97C.jpeg

Posted

Yes, that’s correct. However, it seems that there is something missing in your filter housing, or the filter cartridge needs to have a seal on the inside that fits tightly around the center tube. With gaskets on both ends of the cartridge that would indicate that there needs to be end plates, possibly with springs, that seal off on the ends of the cartridge. Without a way to seal the outside of the cartridge from the inside the filter is useless. The oil needs to be forced through the filter media. 

Posted
3 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

Yes, that’s correct. However, it seems that there is something missing in your filter housing, or the filter cartridge needs to have a seal on the inside that fits tightly around the center tube. With gaskets on both ends of the cartridge that would indicate that there needs to be end plates, possibly with springs, that seal off on the ends of the cartridge. Without a way to seal the outside of the cartridge from the inside the filter is useless. The oil needs to be forced through the filter media. 

Hmmm. I used the wix 51080. Can you recommend a different filter?

47E7ABEF-CBAD-419B-9D61-BAFE4D5C6313.jpeg

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