Another 230 build thread

[Branded]

14 minutes ago, tom'sB2B said:

Thanks. I mailed my cam to Egge an hour ago. So someone else will have to profit from your advice. 

 

I sent my cam to Earl Edgerton, I haven’t driven the car yet but I’m satisfied with his service and turnaround time.

Also purchased all my rebuild parts from EGGE all top quality 

Edited February 23, 2018 by Branded

[tom'sB2B]

Any opinions on whether I should resurface the fluid drive clutch plate? I’m wondering if it’s worth the trouble it would be to pull it and the possibility of damage.

The ring gear looks pretty good 

[tom'sB2B]

The clutch looks practically new. Possibly replaced by P.O.

 

[knuckleharley]

2 minutes ago, tom'sB2B said:

The clutch looks practically new. Possibly replaced by P.O.

 

Would it be possible to get it refaced without taking it apart?

[Dodgeb4ya]

Is that oil sweating ( leaking) out from the FD bellows seal under the driven clutch plate? Was the clutch chattering during engagement?

Anyway the big bolt can be removed and a puller (required) used to remove the clutch plate to have it surfaced....you  cannot do it on the assembled coupling.

Edited March 4, 2018 by Dodgeb4ya

[tom'sB2B]

1 hour ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Is that oil sweating ( leaking) out from the FD bellows seal under the driven clutch plate? Was the clutch chattering during engagement?

Anyway the big bolt can be removed and a puller (required) used to remove the clutch plate to have it surfaced....you  cannot do it on the assembled coupling.

No fluid leak. Just some residual water from cleaning it up.  No chatter during engagement. I understand it’s standard procedure to resurface the flywheel with a standard clutch set-up during a rebuild. I just don’t know how critical it is for a fluid drive set-up

[Jeff Balazs]

Tom;

I dont think it is all that critical. I cleaned mine up by hand and it works fine 10k miles later. Caveat is there were no chatter marks....so I felt good with the hand clean up.

Jeff

[tom'sB2B]

On 3/4/2018 at 4:20 PM, Matt Wilson said:

One thing I should note.  Even though this is not a trick for extending useful engine life, it is related to oil flow to the cam bearings.  George Asche told me that the second and third cam bearings should be installed so that the small hole in each bearing is lined up with the oil passage in the block.  It is possible to install these bearings with the bigger hole in each bearing lined up with the hole in the block, but George says that the extra oil from the bigger hole is unnecessary and just deflates the oil cushion to the crankshaft bearings.  I didn't mention doing this to the front cam bearing because both of its two oil holes get used and line up with passages in the block.

Does it make a difference which small hole is used?

[tom'sB2B]

The right one might be slightly smaller. But, I can’t tell with my eyes.

[Dodgeb4ya]

What about the bearing side notch location?

[Jerry Roberts]

2 hours ago, tom'sB2B said:

The right one might be slightly smaller. But, I can’t tell with my eyes.

You can tell with a drill bit . 

[tom'sB2B]

13 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

What about the bearing side notch location?

Good question. I think maybe I’ll use the small hole opposite the big hole

[tom'sB2B]

Finally got my engine back from the machinists. Looking forward to putting it together with the guidance of you guys on the forum ( also using the search function?) Stay tuned for the barrage of questions.

[The Oil Soup]

Brass plugs are better in the long run especially the hidden ones at the front and rear of the block. I don't have the Dorman part number handy.

[40plyrod]

Nice work so far. I'm watching with interest as I'm contemplating a rebuild of my own in the near future.

[Andydodge]

I agree with Oilsoups suggestion........I have always used brass welch plugs, never ever have an issue with rusted ones then...........1 & 5/8"th should be their size..........BTW isn't it nice to see another clean engine block............regards, andyd 

[tom'sB2B]

I assumed when I bought the plugs from Bernbaum’s they were going to be brass. I guess I’ll have to search for brass ones.

[Branded]

10 minutes ago, tom'sB2B said:

I assumed when I bought the plugs from Bernbaum’s they were going to be brass. I guess I’ll have to search for brass ones.

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

I have purchased the brass plugs from the local NAPA. They usually have to order them from the warehouse though.

[Branded]

56 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

I have purchased the brass plugs from the local NAPA. They usually have to order them from the warehouse though.

When I done my rebuild this past winter my local parts house couldn’t located them in brass including Napa, Even tried Sumit Racing and they showed them as not available. I purchased them off E Bay.

[The Oil Soup]

Dorman # 560-023

[Branded]

58 minutes ago, The Oil Soup said:

Dorman # 560-023

Also,  Pioneer P14B

[Jerry Roberts]

 See ebay number   

163079879011

 

[Branded]

2 hours ago, Jerry Roberts said:

 See ebay number   

163079879011

 

And

163079878587

[tom'sB2B]

Thank you for all the brass welsh plug references.

i ran into my first snag/question.

I had the machinist install and mix the main bearings.

He measured them as:

Rear .0020

         .0016/.0019

         .0019

Front .0022

Looking at my book. I realized that a clearance of .05-.0015

I then plastigauged the mains (torqued at 80lbs) and came up with measurements which I think are within the requirements. The crank was sent out to be ground and I purchased bearings .010 . I’m going to call the machinist tomorrow, but any thoughts would be appreciated