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Dodge D30 engine


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Turns out the engine I bought to replace the P26 engine is a D30. I did some research and found out that it comes from a 1949 Dodge has the same cubic inches as the P26, but 103 hp. The P26 was said to have 115 hp, so he's going to use the best of both engines to make a nice one, since the crank is real good on the P26. The D30 bored at .040 right now and he will take it to .060, which is good. So, I may have a P26 block for sale that's at .060 right now if anyone can use it. Some have said on here that it can be bored more, but my mechanic doesn't want to chance it anymore. That's just his feeling and I respect his judgement. (I guess I have no choice, ay?...LOL)

Does anyone here have the same engine? Is it basically the same as the P models?

Oh, that water sleeve in there is pretty rusted. Is this going to come out in pieces or will it pull out with some lubracation? Also, where can I get new ones to go right in to it? I don't recall seeing that conversation before on here. Any help would be apperciated. Thanks!

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If you want to use the original block , it is common to put sleeves in the cylinders to bring them back to the original size . My personal opinion is that some of the cylinders are very close together to begin with and it is hard enough for the head gasket to keep them sealed . The idea of making one engine from two is fine too . Try some good penetrating oil on the water distribution tube and some of the guys have made home-made pullers for that project , In the worst case a hole can be drilled in the rear of the block to get all of the pieces out and a welch plug inserted afterwards . I see water distribution tubes on ebay often .

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If you don't find the water distribution tube on eBay, Vintage Power Wagons sells them.

I used a come-a-long attached to the ceiling beam in my garage to pull the water distribution tube out of my upright block.

Jim Yergin

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Roberts and Andy B still sells them as well. Seems like I've seen where you can pull the freeze plugs out on that side and that will assist in removing the tube.

Looks like about $40 from Roberts. Not sure on Andy B's price.

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I think most of the HP difference comes from the difference in the compression ration. The P26 is listed at 7.6 to 1 and the dodge is 7 to 1. the other engine specs are the same. So if your using two to build one I would use the p 26 head. I noticed the difference between the P15 and the p26 was that the pistons in the later engine came very nearly to the top of the block, while the piston on the 217 was down in the cylinder about 1/16th inch at tdc. Some one said that earlier heads, P10 P12 had a better Combustion chamber design than the later ones but I have nevers seen the difference.

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When putting a Dodge engine into a Plymouth, the flywheel has to be attached to the crank with bolts and nuts. The Plymouth engine would have studs, but the Dodge usually had the fluid drive and was a bit different connection system. I have had a couple Dodge engines in Plyms, never had any problem with the bolt thing. Don't have any better answer on the water distribution tube than what the others are saying. Some people had a real fight getting out the old.....some said it came out easy and was even re-usable. I bought one once on ebay and am keeping it stored "just in case" it is ever needed. Think I got it for about $20 plus a little shipping.

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If you want to use the original block , it is common to put sleeves in the cylinders to bring them back to the original size . My personal opinion is that some of the cylinders are very close together to begin with and it is hard enough for the head gasket to keep them sealed . The idea of making one engine from two is fine too . Try some good penetrating oil on the water distribution tube and some of the guys have made home-made pullers for that project , In the worst case a hole can be drilled in the rear of the block to get all of the pieces out and a welch plug inserted afterwards . I see water distribution tubes on ebay often .

Jerry, at $100 per sleeve, plus the cost of the rebuild, it would just start getting more expensive than it is. We are trying some penetration oil on that tube, but I don't know if it will come out in one piece.

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I think most of the HP difference comes from the difference in the compression ration. The P26 is listed at 7.6 to 1 and the dodge is 7 to 1. the other engine specs are the same. So if your using two to build one I would use the p 26 head. I noticed the difference between the P15 and the p26 was that the pistons in the later engine came very nearly to the top of the block, while the piston on the 217 was down in the cylinder about 1/16th inch at tdc. Some one said that earlier heads, P10 P12 had a better Combustion chamber design than the later ones but I have nevers seen the difference.

Yeah, Greg...we already have the P26 head milled and ready to go. It was slightly warped.

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When putting a Dodge engine into a Plymouth, the flywheel has to be attached to the crank with bolts and nuts. The Plymouth engine would have studs, but the Dodge usually had the fluid drive and was a bit different connection system. I have had a couple Dodge engines in Plyms, never had any problem with the bolt thing. Don't have any better answer on the water distribution tube than what the others are saying. Some people had a real fight getting out the old.....some said it came out easy and was even re-usable. I bought one once on ebay and am keeping it stored "just in case" it is ever needed. Think I got it for about $20 plus a little shipping.

Thanks, Bob...I'm going to give him that info on the flywheel so he's aware.

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Darin, what luck, you scored an OD tranny as well as a 230 motor. If I were you I'd go buy a Lottery ticket quick.

I have a makeshift tool for pulling the distribution tube if your mechanic needs one.

Yeah, but that kind of luck doesn't pass my way too often. The engine is fine, but he hasn't gotten into the transmission yet...so maybe the same luck will rub of there, as well.

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  • 13 years later...

Yes with some caviats. The later engine was set up for fluid drive so the crankshaft output flange is different.  The engine in the later motor is different as it includes full length cylinder water jackets.  This relocated the starter differently.  The early motor used a stomp switch to engage the starter the later one has a starter switch and solenoid.  If you know your stuff non of this is a deal breaker but items to be dealt with during the swap.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Greg G, I am receiving a D30 (out of a 49 coronet - seller said it was a running motor) next week for my 33 Dodge.  I am mechanically inclined but new to the flathead world.  Do you have a previous thread that lists steps and/or details about this swap? (230 engine into a 33 Dodge DP6, hoping to keep the original tranny and would love to keep the stomp switch starter.  I can have the stomp switch wired to the solenoid or something?  

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