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265 Engine Color opinions


40desoto

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2 hours ago, homer41 said:

What color would have been used in 1941?  Dave

 

This is what I used, after doing some research I read this is as about a close to original that’s out there. I’m sure some will argue the fact but, this is what I went with. I used a detail paint gun and it turned out very well . Nice gloss and slick.

 

 

6D00BC7C-0FCA-4BA9-B7B8-29D53D67D54B.jpeg

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  • 9 months later...

Very nice!  I'm sure the excitement is building more and more.

 

One thing I'd like to mention is that the freeze plugs look like they have small, deep indentations.  I've seen posts by other guys who left such a dimple in their freeze plugs, and it didn't properly expand the plug against the recess in the block, and the plug ended up falling out.  The plugs should have a broader, somewhat shallower deformation (flattening of the initially curved surface).  It could be an optical illusion caused by the photo, but I just wanted to caution you to keep an eye on those plugs.  Conversely, I had a plug fall out of my engine, many years ago, because the machinist didn't flatten it enough.  So it can't be too little or too much.  There's a range of deformation that'll get you a good fit.  And of course, you need to use sealant around the edges.  I've read of some people using Permatex (not silicone), others who use JB Weld and others who use Indian Head gasket shellac (or other equivalent brand).  I'm sure there are other types that can be used with success as well.

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Thank you Matt.  I will take a close look at the plugs and keep an eye out for any leakage.  Do you think itll be something that if bad, will notice if I run it at idle for a while on the stand?

 

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On ‎12‎/‎27‎/‎2018 at 8:10 PM, Matt Wilson said:

Very nice!  I'm sure the excitement is building more and more.

 

One thing I'd like to mention is that the freeze plugs look like they have small, deep indentations.  I've seen posts by other guys who left such a dimple in their freeze plugs, and it didn't properly expand the plug against the recess in the block, and the plug ended up falling out.  The plugs should have a broader, somewhat shallower deformation (flattening of the initially curved surface).  It could be an optical illusion caused by the photo, but I just wanted to caution you to keep an eye on those plugs.  Conversely, I had a plug fall out of my engine, many years ago, because the machinist didn't flatten it enough.  So it can't be too little or too much.  There's a range of deformation that'll get you a good fit.  And of course, you need to use sealant around the edges.  I've read of some people using Permatex (not silicone), others who use JB Weld and others who use Indian Head gasket shellac (or other equivalent brand).  I'm sure there are other types that can be used with success as well.

 

 

I can second this comment.  On my engine I used brass plugs when I rebuilt the engine on the thought that they would not rust.  They started to pop out when I was first running the car down the road.  I had to change then in place to steel.  Why?  I took out my caliper and measured the brass and the steel.  They were smaller by a few thousands.  I then started to check all the steel ones I had and they had quite a range.  I contacted dorman and they told me that the plugs should all be the same.  So much for their quality control.

 

I ended up, for the 1949 engine, having my machinist make me a tool that perfectly fits the plug and the block.  I hit it good and hard and it pushes the plug flat.

 

I have thought about machining the step out in the block on the core holes, tapping the holes and making screw in bronze plugs for the 256 rebuild.

 

The 1947 Engine color is attached.  All the dark red parts were powder coated. The 1949 engine I did stock color.  I don't know what color I will do for the 265 rebuild.

 

James.

 

 

IMG_0157.JPG

core_plug_installation.JPG

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James, interesting comments regarding the plugs...........I have always used brass plugs and have never had a failure and I would be concerned also about the way the welch plugs in 40Desotos engine have been installed.......I normally use a steel bar or a round headed coach bolt head first, either with a diameter of about 1/2-3/4" and a large bricklayers hammer which generally indents the plugs in one hit sufficent to install/expand them into the block edges........I also use a non setting sealer like permatex or gasket goo around the edges of the seat..........I've never seen instructions for setting plugs before......tho' I admit I've never gone looking for them either.............lol..............BTW........like your name.......lol............Andy Douglas.    

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On 12/27/2018 at 11:40 PM, 40desoto said:

Thank you Matt.  I will take a close look at the plugs and keep an eye out for any leakage.  Do you think itll be something that if bad, will notice if I run it at idle for a while on the stand?

 

I ran my engine at idle for quite some time without discovering the problem, in the truck (I didn't use a stand, but probably should have, for various reasons).  Of course, the first time I started it, I ran it up to about 2000 rpm for around 20 minutes to properly break in the cam, but this still wasn't enough to reveal the loose plugs.

 

I believe the cooling system pressure increases with engine rpm, so you may not see the effects of loose plugs until you run it at cruise speed and at full operating temperature for some time.  I realize it's a low- or non-pressurized system, but the water pump produces some pressure.  I didn't experience my issue until the engine's maiden voyage.  I was on my way to work when the plug fell out, resulting in a loss of all coolant without my knowledge, followed by severe overheating.  For fear of damage, I took most of the engine apart in the truck and replaced the rings and inspected pistons, bearings, etc.  I also replaced all freeze plugs, but there's not enough room to swing a hammer on the left side, so I replaced those with the expandable rubber type and they worked well.  I think I had to take apart the whole front end of the engine to access the plug there.  This meant taking off the timing chain and the big mount plate behind it.  I also replaced the plug at the back of the block, nearly breaking my hand in the process, when I swung the hammer and missed the drift I was using to flatten the plug and instead hit my hand, lol.  Some months later, I also had to replace the head, as it started leaking from a crack that was presumably a result of the overheating incident.

 

My biggest concern would be the freeze plug in the front of the engine.  I'm not sure if coolant escaping that plug could get into the oil, but it seems like a possibility.  I know it's a lot of work, but you might consider replacing at least this one, but preferably all of them, before installing the engine in your vehicle.

 

Just my 2 cents.

 

 

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